Posts by Zed

    Hi, I saw a Mustang staggered shock repop kit on eBay. It looks like the bloke has done his research on the parts and has done a nice job reproducing the panels. How does a staggered shock car handle compared to a non-staggered shock car. I am thinking of getting and fitting a kit to my Aussie XP 65 Futura coupe which is under going a very slow restoration and modification process. Any input is greatly appreciated.


    Thanks Zed

    Hi, I have similar pressures with a 289 in my 64 Futura coupe. I fitted a ford Motorsport high volume pump when I rebuilt the motor many years ago. I have only done 4 to 5000 miles on the engine and it still has high oil pressure,(around 100 psi when cranking and a bit lower once started). I don't think I have a stuck relief valve as the pressure does vary with RPM and it also drops off slightly (85 psi ) once the engine has warmed up.


    Zed

    Hi Fella's, I thought I read in a magazine years ago (doing a rebuild on a 289) said to machine the crank sprocket down by the thickness of the hatchet to maintain alignment of the chain. I have looked for this article but still have not found it. I'll keep looking and post if and when I find it. The mag would either be Fast Fords or Mustangs and Fords.As I have alot to go through it will take some time, Maybe some one might remember a year for me.


    Cheers Zed




    I live near a place called JP Engineering who make timing sets and pistons. If someone could send me some specifications I could make some enquiries. With the exchange rate they may work out cheap for those in the USA.




    Edited by - Zed on 02/26/2009 01:22:29

    Hi, I found in the Car and Driver- June 1965 article titled The Ford in Carroll Shelby's Future


    they mention how Shelby are refining the GT40. They mention a 3/8" stroker crank to take it out to 327 cubic inches which is about the limit for the 5.155" long rods. Gurney raced/ tested one of these engines, 8 hours flat out with a Cobra 327 ( called the "325" or "325/327" ) . Hopefully this will refresh some body's memory for extra info. I believe a crank to use was a 292 Y block crank which has the same crank spacing as the 289. The info was from page 38 of Car and Driver On Cobra, Shelby and Ford GT40 1963- 1984 Brooklands Books 1985.


    Cheers Zed

    Hi Guys, does anybody else own a RHD K code car? My Kar was converted to RHD before I got it. Is it the only one like it?


    Thanks Zed

    Hi, I am curious to know if anybody has used the extrude hone process on their exhaust and / or intake manifolds? If so was there much of an improvement over the stock/reproduction castings. I am thinking of getting a pair of reproduction exhaust manifolds done to maintain a stock appearance and pick up a few extra horses along the way. Also considering either my stock 4bl or Shelby high rise intake( repro ) and ceramic coated as well to reduce heat.


    Thanks Eddie

    Hi Fred,thanks for the info. I am not sure how to determine the yoke type I need. I was told the Mustang 64 1/2 -70 Restoration Guide has the right part number but gives the wrong measurement for the U-joint ie 1310 type instead of 1260. Do both types of U-joint fit the same yoke? Your help will be appreciated as I just got a 1310 style yoke/flange in the right length for my Kar. Do I need to keep looking for another yoke?


    Thanks Zed

    Hi, the yoke should be part number C3AZ-4851-L with a length of 5-1/16".


    Mustangs V8s are using the 1260 (C3AZ-4635-C front and C3AZ-4635-D rear). Fairlanes also use the 1260 U-joint exclusively.


    Thanks to Bob Mannel for his help

    Hi Brian, I am trying to find out the same info on the the yoke for my Kar.




    Looking at Mustang 64 1/2- 70 Restoration Guide by Tom Corcoran & Earl Davis I think the yoke should be the type 2 listed on page 238 p.n .C3AZ-4851-L with a total yoke length of 5-1/16" which is about 130mm.




    I am awaiting some clarification on this matter myself and will post the results for you if I find out. In Adelaide it is alot harder to find another Kar to look at than in the USA.


    Cheers Zed

    Hi fella's, just after some feedback on two types of body stripping. One is Media blasting and the other is an alkaline solution to remove rust and paint from a car [ in my case a 65 Aussie Futura coupe]. I am aware that media blasting can damage the panels dependant upon the media and operater. How about dropping the body into an alkaline solution? i.e http://minuspaint.com.au/ is the company I am thinking of using here in Adelaide. This system must be in use in the USA. Has anybody used this type of process before and what was the result? Successful or a disaster once the paint goes on. I have been told by a media blaster the solution leeches out and affects your paintwork later on from the seams.


    Any thoughts or experiences are much appreciated. Cheers Zed.

    Hi Guys, just hoping some one can clarify what type of rear axle housing should be in my Kar. My 66 has an actual build date of 5K13. The housing in my Kar is a 64/65 style housing. I think my Kar is near the transition date for the 66 style housing and I am wondering if it has been changed at some time or is it correct for my Kar?


    Thanks Zed

    Hi, I would like to find out the transition date for the change in the rear axle housing type. I have an early 66 Kar- 65 11K build date Metuchen factory. I have searched on the forums and I think I need a 65 style housing due to a post I read but I think this is past the transition date.


    Kar nos. 6T09K119941, 6T09K125261,6T09K126780 and 6T09K127037 all have either a similar no. and / or build date to my Kar. If any of these owners could please contact me with their axle details I would be very appreciative.


    Cheers Eddie

    Thanks Bo, that has clarified the casting date issue for me. Somebody offered me a diff centre with a late June-case and early July pinion support casting date. I was a bit hesitant to purchase it with a casting date that far of from my build date.


    Thank you, Eddie

    Hi Fella's, somebody must have some idea about the diff yoke length, is it short or a long one for a K code? The date code should be some thing in the range of up to 90 days before the build date? If so how much of a variation is there for a Metucheun built Kar?


    Hope somebody can help,Thanks