I am looking for a right hand original disc brake dust shield. must be rust free and correct. no repo crap thats not even close. Also what are the stripe markings on the coil springs red or brown. is brown gt equipment group. its been along time since I have taken this car apart and my age is catching up with me yikes
big Al
They gray strip caulk turns black/dark gray after it oxidizes. Mr Rick hope that helps I have pictures of alot of original cars with lots of strip caulk
Big Al
thourobred coupe to be on display
Edited by - bigal on 01/02/2010 21:21:26
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Is there any real difference between them as to how they fit and work?
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never had a problem with repop key blanks. Rick Will you have your car in Ocala at the show. I will be their to check it out I got white hair and a white gotee. I usually can be see wearing and indian motorcyle tshirt, its only a short drive from floral city
the pony fraudulant carburator is all it is a fake knock off. if you know your hipo carbs you can spot their fake right off the bat. I alway try and look for the real deal yes and the part number listed are correct
Just hope their not done in catalyzed urethane
It doesn't matter is an upholstry shop installs the carpet or not. its not molded right. If the carpet is not in the mold long enough you have wrinkles. the only thing an upholstry shop can do make non molded carpet. I would go track down some maslen carpet. they have been out of business since 82. Everyonce in a while it pops up, its not cheap by any means and the cheapest I have seen it is right around $1000
Different plants yield different markings is the important thing to remember so dearborn could be different then san jose or metuchin
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Check out my car that he is working on currently. Look at the panel alignment!!! http://www.1969stang.com/gallery/1969-428CJ-Mach-1
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As a bodyman Looks like you he used a bunch of fiberglass to get your gaps... on the headlight buckets to fender area Mustangs never looked like that. I also notice no drips on the floor pans and the lower control arms looked like they were painted cast blast and then taped off painted black not dipped like they're supposed to be
Big Al
Edited by - bigal on 11/22/2009 17:12:57
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Thanks Brant! These repros were purchased by my restorer at the big wholesaler in NC.....may be they are of lesser quality than the ones you sell?-I'm going to remove them and start over to see what is going on....
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Everyone one buys from the Large Wholesaler in NC its well known. Most people repackage the crap and resell it
Big Al
Mr Rick,
The easiest fix is to take some metal prep purchased from an autobody store, oil and steel wool clean them up spray some T9 on them and good to go. on first startup after T9 is applied it smells really bad but its propably the best metal preservative out their!
Edited by - bigal on 11/17/2009 21:21:03
The manifold locks and tabs in order to get them off of the engine you have to drop the manifolds. the bolts don't come out unless you do that
Your going to have to get a professional exhaust manifold man for that one. some oil and steel wool will clean them up just fine. If you try to take them off they are a real pita, you have to drop the whole exhaust and then drop the manifolds.
Not all of them had that clamp that is a later production 66 style clamp. the 65 cars had a band type clamp.
That Stang brough alot of money for a coupe. Its not restored correctly at all.
Couldn't tell you that I haven't been to the hopkins airport in over 30 years.
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Boy, You learn something new everyday!! so I guess then that we all have 289 Clevelands-(LOL)
Now I am wondering what color the floor tile is in the Hopkins airport?
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Edited by - bigal on 09/28/2009 18:23:11
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Whoops....I just re-read the original post...."Cleveland"?? I thought that in 1965-66 the Mustangs were only produced at Dearborn, San Jose, and Metcheun..........??
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+1 Engine Plant Number 2 that is. Just next to Hopkins Airport
call max at amk. he used to rebuild them. their is also a guy in indiana that charges 1500 bucks to do them, I have to try and dig up his name
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Any suggestions for installing new rivets on the uper and lower control arms when replacing ball joints. The originals typically have a "knurled" pattern to one side of the rivet, and has a very distinct look that is seldom duplicated. AMK and other sources have the rivets , but how can the installed look of the originals be duplicated? Is there a tool available for this process? Has anyone been able to copy the look of the original rivets with a home made or commercial tool?
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like i said if you think the brakes on a 1965 car should be the same as the new cars then you are a joker at best not to pick fun at you
but it seens you must have a very nice car and if you would sell it to someone thats in the mustang vintage world they would treat your car with great respect and you can get a new one i only base my thougths on your past posts
