rear bumper question

  • Is the rear bumperon a 67 mustang(probably 65-66 also) supposed have a slight curve inward in the middle. Most all the unmolested rusty original ones I've seen have this center inward curve. And many of the after market are very straight & ones that the rechroming facilities straighten before chroming are of course then straight.It seems like the curved ones fit the rear of the cars profile better. Any info on this???

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Another bumper question: would it be better to have an original quality rechromed or just buy a quality reproduction?

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Repops go for what, perhaps $90 to $100, while a rechrome is probably in the 150/175 plus area. So from that standpoint the repop makes sense. The most recent repop examples I've seen from Dynacon (sp?) have a finish and smoothness much better than other aftermarket vendor products, and are in the just over $100 range ,at least from the local Mustang parts vendor here in Austin.


    On the other hand, originals as I understand, are date code stamped. If that is the case a stamped bumper would be vital for a top line restoration, and a replate makes sense (I've a couple of originals and darned if I can find any stamped date info on either of them).</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


    [Blocked Image: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid157/p4f8ee1bd214d6f407a7e7df72a842ee9/f5253efc.jpg]

  • I got a set of repro bumpers for a 65 Fastback and found them to be at the best, moderately ok. The problem was the edges were rough with sharp pieces of metal sticking up, enough to cut fingers if you were dumb enough to rub them on the edge (I wasn't). This was a result of the stamping process and from either worn out tooling or poor new tooling. The size, finish and fit were good, no twists, no problems with the mounting holes. I put a coat of wax on them before installation which provided me with the opportunity for a detailed inspection.

    On the other hand, a friend that restores brand 'C' stuff told me of a local bumper chrome shop that could be named 'the Little Shop of Horrors' (grind marks, pits, plating that did not stick). Three returns for rework and the bumpers are still not done right.

    However, I still think the better way to go is with your old bumpers and a reputable chrome shop.

    Jim

  • Original bumpers are date coded on the underside. If you want authenticity you might want to go that route and seek out referrals to a good chrome shop.

Participate now!

Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!