GT Authentication

65gt_old · July 16, 2008 at 10:48 AM

I plan to look at a Dearborn '65 K GT in a couple of weeks. Build date is mid-June 1965. Is it possible to confirm GT status without removing the 5-gauge instrument cluster? Can you feel or see with a mirror the contour and lip from underneath the dash?

I'm assuming that the fog lamp switch hole is "D" shaped on a late '65 build and should be easy to see with the switch loosened.

CharlesTurner · July 16, 2008 at 12:48 PM

The dip under the speedo cluster should be visible from underneath. Keep in mind that if the car has pony interior, this will not help in confirming a factory GT.

Have found that not all the fog light switch holes were 'D' shape.

Depending on how the car was originally equipped, it could be very difficult to determine if it was a factory GT. A '65 K code with deluxe interior and factory disc brakes would make it very tough to call.

65gt_old · July 16, 2008 at 1:43 PM

The car does have deluxe interior and disc brakes. So the only areas that I could confirm are the punched fog lamp wire holes in the radiator support and maybe the "D" fog switch hole.

Edited by - 65gt on 07/16/2008 13:48:38

jwc66k · July 16, 2008 at 2:01 PM

Keep in mind that the under dash and the front lights wiring harnesses are also unique (the fog lamp wiring is integral to both, plus the alternator guage 'loop' at the instrument cluster) to both the GT and Interior Decor Group. Those wiring harnesses are unigue and rare. Look at the fenders to see if there are bondo marks from where the running horses (yeah, it's a bolt on item). If a previous owner took the time to change all this, and all the rest of the key items are correct, call it a GT - proudly. And remember, it is a lot easier to prove a car is NOT a GT than to prove that it is.

Jim

65gt_old · July 16, 2008 at 2:40 PM

I forgot about the fender badge holes and quarter trim. I can't take off too many parts because the car is very nicely restored. I've owned 2 GT clones in the past and would eventually like to own a "factory" GT.

CharlesTurner · July 16, 2008 at 2:40 PM

Only other thing to check for is signs of rocker panel molding clip holes being filled.

Is this a convertible? Could also make sure no quarter bezel holes were filled...

65gt_old · July 16, 2008 at 3:44 PM

Convertible!

donolightning_old · August 6, 2008 at 7:55 AM

Is there a correct position for the fog light switch for a 65? Or did they put them wherever they wanted?

CharlesTurner · August 6, 2008 at 8:05 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Is there a correct position for the fog light switch for a 65? Or did they put them wherever they wanted?

Early '65 GT's usually have the switch on the bottom edge of the dash. Later, including all '66 GT would have it mounted up on the left side of the dash.

donolightning_old · August 6, 2008 at 9:05 AM

Ok, my car is a march car and its mounted up (not on bottom edge)

CharlesTurner · August 6, 2008 at 9:55 AM

March of '65 or '66?

The few March GT's I have seen (only 1 comes to mind) had the switch mounted on the bottom edge.

donolightning_old · August 6, 2008 at 10:34 AM

i'm sorry it is a 65. i have the D shaped hole on the underside of my dash. are you a mca judge?

CharlesTurner · August 6, 2008 at 11:39 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

i'm sorry it is a 65. i have the D shaped hole on the underside of my dash. are you a mca judge?

Yes.

I'd expect the switch to be on the bottom edge on a March '65 GT. Not saying yours is wrong, just saying that it's not the norm for that time period.

donolightning_old · August 6, 2008 at 3:00 PM

So if it is mounted up on the dash you'd still have the D shaped hole also?

CharlesTurner · August 6, 2008 at 4:37 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

So if it is mounted up on the dash you'd still have the D shaped hole also?

If you mean along the bottom of the dash, yes. The hole up on the dash may or may not have been D shape.

donolightning_old · August 11, 2008 at 6:25 PM

i have another question regarding engine block date codes. my car was built 1965 march 27th. so i should have a block dated A,B, or C. Is a 4M30 a good date for my car? I've been told that it can be up to 90 days prior to the build date.

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