• Over the next couple of weeks I'm going to pull the engine out of my K-code coupe to accomplish two things, fix the leaking rear main and detail the engine compartment. While I have the engine out, I was considering changing the cam from flat tappets to rollers due mainly to the quality of oil we have now. My 428 SCJ Mach 1 went through two cams before I changed it to roller and have been quite satisfied with the change. Any recommendations on a roller for my street driven, basically stock HiPo?

  • There are plenty of oils available today that have proven to be harmless re the flat tappet issue. I'm using Mobil 1 15-50. No measurable wear over a time period of 8 years & 35,000 miles in the same Hi-Po engine. I don't baby it either.


    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…et_Engines.aspx


    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…_1_15W-50_.aspx


    if you are wanting a different weight oil I'd reccomend using this product w/ the synthetic oil of your choise.


    http://www.cam-shield.com/


    changing to a roller cam seems to be an extreme solution.


    Z.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/17/2010 11:26:12

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Over the next couple of weeks I'm going to pull the engine out of my K-code coupe to accomplish two things, fix the leaking rear main and detail the engine compartment. While I have the engine out, I was considering changing the cam from flat tappets to rollers due mainly to the quality of oil we have now. My 428 SCJ Mach 1 went through two cams before I changed it to roller and have been quite satisfied with the change. Any recommendations on a roller for my street driven, basically stock HiPo?

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    I took apart the five bolt HP289 that was in a car I bought. It had 3,700 mostly interstate highway miles on it with a modern synthetic oil since its rebuild. The roller camshaft and lifters were fine. The push rod ends, rocker arms, timning sprockets and chain (current style Cloyes®), camshaft thrust retainer, fuel pump eccentric, and fuel pump lever were all badly worn. The fuel pump drive and fuel pump lever were in badly galled condition. I pulled the engine apart because the timing mark jumped all over when I tried to check timing. The timing set was so worn I could almost move the chain over one notch with my fingers. I am not so sure that flat tappets and camshaft lobes are the only things you should worry about regarding ZDDP levels.


    Hydraulic oils (example ISO H46 grade used world wide) up until just a few years ago had ZDDP in them also. Oil producers are reducing or eliminating ZDDP there also. We have dozens of hydraulic powered systems at work that don't seem affected by not having ZDDP in their oil anymore but we have five that must use oil with old levels of ZDDP or the equipment will destroy itself in hours. The cost to replace everything is in the millions so we just have to keep buying oil with ZDDP for those processes.


    I for one hate to take a chance on rare old equipment if such an easy to find and buy additive takes the risk out.


    Dan


    Edited by - rr64 on 04/17/2010 14:14:37

  • There's still good oil out there. Use Brad Penn Racing oil. Not expensive by the case - I think I bought one for $42 in Greensboro. Most anywhere that you have a stock car presence you will find Brad Penn, and you can buy it online as well. For other options, check Charles Navarro's site, http://www.LNEngineering.com. I think he has a complete discussion of the problem and various solutions.

  • Thanks for the advice guys. I was using the Mobile 1 15W-50 in my Mach 1 when it chewed up the last cam. Before that I had been running Shell Rotella which probably was one of the last to lose the zinc, but that chewed up my first cam. Maybe since the cam in my little HiPo has been in there a while and certainly is well broken in, it may just last if I use the oil with the ZDDP still in it. One thing is sure, its much easier pulling and going through a 289 than it is a 428.


    Should I need to do a full rebuild on the little terrier engine (We have a Jack Russell and the HiPo reminds me of her, doesn't know she's not big), then I'll reconsider a roller.


    Thanks again.

  • I have found Amzoil to give the protection I needed for my 289/347. Even though its been built with roller everything, there are many other parts [ fuel pump, chains, ] that have metal to metal surfaces that slide, not roll, and for those reasons, I have added ZDDP Plus to every engine I own. <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

  • I have seen some posts on other forums saying that some of these additives and oils have too much ZDDP, causing corrosion problems. CD2 oil booster, for example, has 4800ppm. Some racing oils are for race cars, not street cars and need to be changed way more often.

    The amount to have seems to be around 1200-1400ppm. STP 4 cyl, in the red container, is supposed to be in that range, along with the ZDDPlus.

  • there is also a oil made by kendal that has zinc in it. i run this in my motor with no issues. however my motor is a roller block, and i beat it like a redheaded step child!<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

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