Over-ride traction bars

toolbox · May 26, 2007 at 7:02 AM

Does anyone know if you can use over-ride traction bars in a 65 coupe and still have the back seat installed?

My kar still has the brackets welded in place on the rear end and under the back seat from its SCCA days, and if the bars won't interfere with the back seat, I think I'll put in a set.

And if they do fit, any ideas for a boot to seal up the holes in the floor? When I dissassembled the car, it looked like they had used some type of large, accordian ribbed shifter boot. Like something out of a dumptruck maybe.

Anyone know what Shelby used for GT350s?

Edited by - toolbox on 05/26/2007 07:04:12

Rohan_old · May 26, 2007 at 11:26 PM

I have a 66 GT350 with over rides and the brackets that are welded to the floor are not located under the rear seat - they are located behind the trim panel that the rear courtesy lights are fixed. Therefore no problems with the rear seats.

Rohan

Beagle1_old · June 23, 2007 at 5:53 AM

I got an idea to seal up your holes if you decide to install the bars...

Look at item #10 in this pic, tie rod boot from an Arctic Cat snowmobile. Might be a tight squeeze over the bars though?

[Blocked Image: http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/Images/0736/0736-798_s.gif]

toolbox · June 23, 2007 at 7:03 AM

Thanks Beagle,

That's what I've been looking for. I'd imagine I would have to open up the small end of the boot a little to fit over the ends of the traction bars though.

You just gave me an idea- maybe a CV joint boot of some kind might work too.

Beagle1_old · June 23, 2007 at 7:16 AM

You're welcome <img src=images/icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

I picked the Arctic Cat pieces because there are (4) holes for small sheet metal screws. I thought of the CV boots, but how would you attach them?

RalphJr · June 23, 2007 at 8:26 AM

A little back to your first question.

Owning both a Coupe (66) and a 2+2 (65 K) - and having had both extensively apart over the years I don't think you can use OVER RIDES in a Coupe and still retain the back seat area unchanged.

The 2+2 rear seat area is narrower than a Coupe - look at some pictures and you will see what I mean. The fiberglass panels on the 2+2 come in toward the center of the vehicle a lot further - providing some space for the bar to come in and attach without hitting the interior parts - this space doesn't exist on the Coupe.

On the Coupe - the inner panels hug the inner rear window area and the inner wheel well - AND the seat expands outward towards the doors. You can compare a Coupe and Fastback rear seat width to see the difference.

I think you could move the over rides as far outboard as possible and still not clear either the seat or the inner interior panel on the Coupe.

However, I think if you did move them out board as much as possible - you could modify the seat and rear panels to clear the bars - the inner part of the side panels on the Coupe is metal - so you can easily modify them "out" to clear the bars, then cut down the back seat to match the new inner panels. Of course both the panels and seat will need custom upholstery modifications to appear stock.

You could make a CV joint boot work if you welded a lip around the opening for a clamp or screws - picture a dryer vent and you get the idea.

I hope this helps.

Edited by - RalphJr on 06/23/2007 08:29:47

toolbox · June 23, 2007 at 10:23 AM

Yeah, that's kind of what I figured. The existing brackets are well under the seat, over a foot in from the side panel. And the holes for the bars are through the floor, not the wheelhouse. I don't have a real need for traction bars since I'm restoring to original specs. I thought if they would be unobtrusive I'd put 'em in, but it doesn't matter that much to me.

I also have to decide if I should remove and grind down all traces of the brackets from the rear axle, or maybe just leave them there like old war scars.

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