Running in oil

  • I have just rebuilt my motor. The cam has been broken in, I put a bottle of comp cams break in lube in the oil for this.

    Now when I take it on the street, I will use a 30 weight running in oil. Will the piston rings bed in better without any break in lube in the oil or should I leave it in there ?

    Thanks

  • what is your thinking in wanting to use a straight 30 wt. oil as opposed to a multi viscosity oil like a 5w-30 or a 10w-30 ?


    the multi viscosity oil will flow better while the motor is cold, which is when most of wear occurs.


    as far as the break-in additive goes, I would leave it in for no more than 250 to 500 miles, and try to get those miles driven in a short time period. Then be sure to change the filter when you change the oil.


    Many, if not all, break in additives contain graphite. It can make your oil filter much less effective (plugs it up) and should not be used when normal oil & filter changes intervals (3000+ miles) are employed.


    I don't think a break in additive is necessary. Just my subjective opinion. When my engine was overhauled 43,000 miles ago there was a liberal amount of assembly lube put on the cam and lifters. Otherwise, no additives in the oil.


    Z.


    p.s. nice looking engine by the way.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/11/2011 20:04:41

  • After I got my rebuilts running to my satisfaction, I changed the oil at about 300-500 miles. That includes VWs built for Baha, Fords built for the strip and daily drivers for me and friends. If you got problems at first, all bets are off.

    Jim

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    what is your thinking in wanting to use a straight 30 wt. oil as opposed to a multi viscosity oil like a 5w-30 or a 10w-30 ?


    the multi viscosity oil will flow better while the motor is cold, which is when most of wear occurs.


    as far as the break-in additive goes, I would leave it in for no more than 250 to 500 miles, and try to get those miles driven in a short time period. Then be sure to change the filter when you change the oil.


    Many, if not all, break in additives contain graphite. It can make your oil filter much less effective (plugs it up) and should not be used when normal oil & filter changes intervals (3000+ miles) are employed.


    I don't think a break in additive is necessary. Just my subjective opinion. When my engine was overhauled 43,000 miles ago there was a liberal amount of assembly lube put on the cam and lifters. Otherwise, no additives in the oil.


    Z.


    p.s. nice looking engine by the way.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/11/2011 20:04:41

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Thanks

    My reasoning for the 30 wt oil is that it is a special running in oil to help the piston rings bed in properly. I would leave this in for only 500 miles, then put in a multigrade.

    I wondered if having break in lube in the 30 wt would be counterproductive making the oil too slippy for the rings to bed in ?.

    So far I have only run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes in the garage, and after doing the hot lash and the timing all seems good. I have changed the oil filter as I used graphite assembly past in certain locations.

    Thanks all, be interested to hear views on this as I dont want to screw up.

    Cheers.

  • Zray, back when you broke in your engine, the critical breakin additive, ZDDP was in motor oils. The recent EPA reqmts are meant to protect CAT converters and the Zinc reduces their effectiveness. Zinc has all but completely been removed, and flat tappet engines like ours require this additive to prevent excessive wear. The zinc is actually " used up " or consumed by the friction of metal to metal. Other threads elsewhere on this site have discussed the issue. Amsoil has a dedicated oil for early high-performance engines and I have used their Stuff for years with great results.<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Zray, back when you broke in your engine, the critical breakin additive, ZDDP was in motor oils. .

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    I have broken in numerous flat tappet (non roller engines) engines in the interim using Mobil 1 15w-50. (289's. 302's & a 351. water cooled, and Triumph, Honda & Kawasaki air cooled engines. No issues with rings seating, leaks or any other problems.


    Oh no ! Synthetic oil as a break in oil? Is he crazy ????


    Maybe. But it works for me. I am interested in reducing wear, and sythetic oil is far superior to dino oil in that reguard. Many brand new cars come with synthetic oil from the factory & have zero problems with "break-in". Dino oil is for dinoaurs as far I'm concerned.


    Z.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/12/2011 21:22:46

  • Ok seems logical.

    I started her up again tonight and ran for another 20 mins at fast idle, all seems well.

    I hope to take the car for her annual ministry roadworthy test on Saturday morning, so keep your fingers crossed for me.

    Cheers

    Mark


    Edited by - cobraboy on 04/13/2011 15:23:54

Participate now!

Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!