Your opinion please on block decking

    Well, as we all know, the term "NOS" is used very loosely. What you may possibly have is a Ford re-manufactured block and not necessarily a brand new, never used, block. I have to agree that the absence of the stamped numbers on the normal machined area would indicate the block has possibly been decked.

    I am 99.9% sure it has never been used, but the decking question I am not sure at all. The guy I bought it from years ago told me it was NOS and I have no reason to doubt him. But he did build race cars, so there is a chance he may have done some machining to the block.


    What numbers are you refering to that are absent in my block.


    By the way I cancelled all bids on my block, added detail about possible decking and now the bidding starts all over. I like sleeping at night more than money!

    On the machined edge that would be exposed, there would be a date stamp, like on the bottom surface where the oil pan attaches. The machined edge on the top is on the LH side, above where the oil pressure sending unit attaches, but right at the head to block area.

    Are you talking about the assembly date? If, so there is no assembly date on the block. Nor would there be an assembly date if just the block was purchased off the shelf. Right?

    Great reference information! But unfortunately I don't have the proper tools to measure this accurately.


    You have two measurements listed. Is this a tolerance or does each deck have different measurements?

    That is refered to as a minimum and maximum. There may be a tolerance on the actual dimension to control "wavyness" or "tilt" of the actual deck surface: eg 8.205 +/- 0.003; 8.211 +0.000,-0.003; 8.201 +0.003,-0.000.

    Jim

    It is really hard to tell from the pics, but look at the deck surface to see if it has lines that run front to rear, or a circular pattern accross the deck. If the deck has lines, then it has NOT been decked. Just looking at the pics it looks as though it has the lines. The way the factory broach cut the deck is much different that I can do or any other machine shop.

    An engine builder/machine shop in your area should be able to measure the block for you. The deck surface must be flat within .002" TIR(total indicator readout)in any 6" & flat within .006" TIR overall. The maximum deck height 8.211"(+.000"/-.006")minimum deck height 8.201"(+.006/-.000") The spec's are from the Ford engineering documents.


    Edited by - kar-nut on 03/21/2010 10:28:16

    First I would like to say that I am again impressed with the knoweledgeable people on this forum. Your efforts to help people are truly appreciated.


    Unfortunately my auction for the block ends later today so I don't have time to take it to a shop.


    However, I pulled out my specs (reading glasses for those old like me!) and saw faint horisontal lines going from the front of the block to the rear. These were evident on both decks. I will try and capture this in a Photo and post.


    Again, Thanks!!!

    Link to photos:

    http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/d…0Engine%20Deck/


    [Blocked Image: http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/darrellhall2000/HIPO%20Engine%20Deck/IMG_8919.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/darrellhall2000/HIPO%20Engine%20Deck/IMG_8920.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/darrellhall2000/HIPO%20Engine%20Deck/IMG_8922.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/darrellhall2000/HIPO%20Engine%20Deck/IMG_8923.jpg]

    Deffinately factory broach cut and never been decked.....I would add this info the auction ASAP and maybe reply to the person that stated this and tell him to mind his own business.

    I think the lack of the assembly date caused some confusion. That is why this Forum is so important. There is a lot of bad information out there.


    With that being said, I try to be very honest when I sell something. BUT, I am not an expert and would rather disclose a potential issue than not disclose it. Sometimes I flat out miss something, or just don't know the answer.


    The auction is over but learning about these Kars never is. There is a lot of expertise on this forum and I for one am VERY THANKFUL you guys take the time to share your opinions and knowledge. Please keep it up!

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    It is really hard to tell from the pics, but look at the deck surface to see if it has lines that run front to rear, or a circular pattern accross the deck. If the deck has lines, then it has NOT been decked. Just looking at the pics it looks as though it has the lines. The way the factory broach cut the deck is much different that I can do or any other machine shop.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    The horizontal lines are clearly different from a typical deck milling. I've never seen a broach in action, but it's interesting to note that there is a slight amount of what you might call "tearout" on one side of each opening; perhaps this is an indication of the direction of travel of the tooling?

    I didn't catch that when I looked at the Pics. The "tear out" is all on the same side of the bolt holes. Just for reference, the Pics were all taken from the front of the block.

    I also just noticed the post about the core wires that are installed from the factory to hold the core molds in place. The statement that they are not visible until you deck is also false. There are plenty of blocks that you can see the wires. A used block is just harder to see them from the discoloration that occurs from use, heat and gasket material that transfers.


    Nice price you got for the block.....congrats!!!

    Thanks, I had no idea what it would bring. I'm glad someone could use it and I came through it with my honesty and integrity intact<img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>


    Great point on the core wires. Another good bit of information to know for future reference. Especially the part about it being hard to see on a used block.

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