Posts by BMaloof_old

    The Shelby T-10 (aluminum case) used the M ratio gearset which were nickle gears including the input. The AC cobra cars used an L ratio gearset, not sure what the difference is, but the gears are very costly if you can even find them anymore. I know where some M ratio stuff is, but at 3k for a complete set, not many takers in that department.


    I am not too savy in the Galaxie car trannies, so no input from me there.

    I also just noticed the post about the core wires that are installed from the factory to hold the core molds in place. The statement that they are not visible until you deck is also false. There are plenty of blocks that you can see the wires. A used block is just harder to see them from the discoloration that occurs from use, heat and gasket material that transfers.


    Nice price you got for the block.....congrats!!!

    It is really hard to tell from the pics, but look at the deck surface to see if it has lines that run front to rear, or a circular pattern accross the deck. If the deck has lines, then it has NOT been decked. Just looking at the pics it looks as though it has the lines. The way the factory broach cut the deck is much different that I can do or any other machine shop.

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    The original installed ones on Mustangs were left natural and the over the counter parts were painted.Ford didn't want rust on new parts they sold over the counter is why most are painted.

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    I totally disagree with that. I have found many original proportioning valves with gray paint still on them or bubbling off.

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    I have to agree here. I owned and restored a 65 shelby car # 142 that had 27,000 original miles on it and the valve was gray. I used a "machine gray" that matched almost perfectly.

    It is unfortunate but either people like Jon, or they don't. I have also experienced problems with carbs that came from there. I do my own carbs, and restore carbs for customers as well. Pony does a good job restoring carbs, but they do not have the capabilities to tune problems when the metering circuits have been messed with, or the factory calibration needs "improvement". Those are the only 2 things I see wrong with Pony.

    I have an H65 dated hipo engine in my Kar that does not have a VIN stamp and is date stamped 5J17P. I have been told that this is a sevice engine, but I have always thought it was way too early to be one. When I found this engine, it was in a pickup truck. It had all the shelby engine parts including a correct dated 3259 carb on it.

    Well, the hipo (and std 289 heads as well) benefit from larger valves. I usually put a 1.900/1.500-1.540(depending) in them. It allows a multi angle valve job that will just not happen on the factory seats. Ford for some stupid reason undercuts their seats right below the 45,which is horrible from a performace standpoint, but made the valve job last longer as the seats did not tend to get beat out as quickly.


    I also have special radius cutters that I unshroud the combustion chambers with that reshape the entry/exit into the chamber. The 289 heads have a reverse angle next to the exhaust valve that really hurts the low lift flow numbers (the numbers that really count in a street engine). I do unshroud both intake and exhaust though. I may still have some pictures somewhere that I can dig up from a 65 shelby that I used to own.

    I have got to disagree with you on the loctite you used on the rod bolts. All you did was change the friction torque on the bolts and actually put less load on the fastener. They will be more likely to fail than if you used the "recomended" lube.


    Edited by - BMaloof on 10/28/2009 08:42:39

    That article is just enough to get a novice in trouble. There is simply just not really any usable info for it to be of any use. There is much more that just 60/45/30 seats, and different heads require different valve jobs. The article is kind of generic.


    I will add this though, that air will not stay on any surface past a 15* angle. That is the difference between the 60/45/30 valve job. So a 4th angle below the 60 would be a 75 leading into the bowl. And then you have combustion chamber design to contend with for the critical top angle which is not always 30, and almost never in a race head.


    I hope this helps, I have been building high performance engines for over 25 years now.....so I hope I got it right.

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    I have a 5C20 hipo block with hipo main caps and the vin stamped on block. It's a std bore and will go back std if you wanted, .005"-.007" taper, and just back from machine shop where is was cleaned and magnafluxed for cracks. (no cracks) I would sell it if March 20th is close enough for you. The block is in Mesa Arizona.

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    I am sorry, but .005-.007 taper will not go back std. Not to step on anyone's toes here, but if your machine shop says it will run Std. then I would find another machine shop to use. That kind of taper will break rings in short order.