Have late '65 Block - Need Early '65 Block

  • I have a 5C20 hipo block with hipo main caps and the vin stamped on block. It's a std bore and will go back std if you wanted, .005"-.007" taper, and just back from machine shop where is was cleaned and magnafluxed for cracks. (no cracks) I would sell it if March 20th is close enough for you. The block is in Mesa Arizona.

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    I have a 5C20 hipo block with hipo main caps and the vin stamped on block. It's a std bore and will go back std if you wanted, .005"-.007" taper, and just back from machine shop where is was cleaned and magnafluxed for cracks. (no cracks) I would sell it if March 20th is close enough for you. The block is in Mesa Arizona.

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    I am sorry, but .005-.007 taper will not go back std. Not to step on anyone's toes here, but if your machine shop says it will run Std. then I would find another machine shop to use. That kind of taper will break rings in short order.

  • Actually I mis-spoke as the mid March is much better and really closer than an April. Although I prefer a std. bore block I'm not off on the idea having to bore .030 (done it before), but I have what I was told (I have to confirm with my machinist) a std. bore block. The gentleman I got it from has been doing HIPOs for decades and so I trust his word until I can get it checked. If it is a std. bore block then I might be open to swapping if compensation for the difference in the blocks becomes evident. Give me a call 703-743-9520 and let's talk.

  • I apologize to wcampbell, I'm not trying to highjack your tread.


    BMaloof, I called the maching shop today to double check the .005-.007 taper, because it is a rare hipo block it's better leave it standard and bore it as few times as possible. They build $20,000+ race motors all day long with that much clearance, so I trust them. Just make sure the motor is warmed up to operating temperature before you rev it to 7000 RPM!

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