Bang...blue smoke

1st Official Post

    So there I was....just east of Mt. Rainier, Hwy 410, just passed a couple of cars, about 85-90 mph, gentle left coming up, accelerating hard.....Then...BANG-- heavy vibration, and a ton of blue smoke........ [ only have put 400 miles on it since purchased!]...coast to a stop.


    A big sigh, and now what. Its turned off of course, the cars I had passed ALL pulled over behind me to offer assistance, praised the little Hardtop....I was just barely in cell range, roam of course. as I wait for a friend to show up, [ A Shelby/Cobra road trip I was allowed to join]I decide to try the starter, and it starts on the first bump and idles normally. I try the C-4. it engages and I slowly pull away. I get to 15 mph and the vibration starts, big time..jump ahead--Tow truck, back AROUND the mountain [ can't drive a commercial truck through the Park] and on the lift....broke the bell housing and broke the case, the front universal had broken, and the vibration did the damaged. My rare C-4 must be saved....stay tuned, hipo fans.<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

    Bummer! I hope you get her repaired to your satisfaction. I can imagine the disspointment you must be feeling. When we my dad and I took delivery of his GT350H, we didn't get 100 miles when the HiPo C4 blew out on us on the way home. At least it was still driveable. Just had to keep dumping fluid in it until we made it home. You may want to call the previous owner and politely explain to him what happened. We did so, and he ended up sending us all the parts we needed to properly rebuild the transmission as well as the parts we needed for correct Shelby brakes we noticed needing replacement.

    Jeff may have put in the U-joints of course. The remaining questions center around the drive shaft length; if it has a shaft from an 8" rear it would be an inch longer. I have no reason to say it IS from an 8", but it would slide into the rear housing but might be too tight and cause the failure. I just haven't laid eyes on the U-joint yet. May see it today. That will tell me a lot. I don't expect Jeff to do anything. He sold me the car in good faith and stuff happens. He's enough of a Mustang guy and good mechanic to knowingly let a bad situation go unfixed. The other possibilities will just have to show themselves. We've found a correct bell housing [ old one cracked ], and tail shaft housing, [ old one cracked ] .


    I am proceeding cautiously, not throwing out anything. Stay tuned. Oh and by the way the torque may be an issue, but I doubt it. This kind of failure probably started long ago.


    <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

    Analysis; failure of a bearing cup on the front U-joint. The cracks in the housings can't be fixed, so replacements have been fitted. Trans totally rebuilt, tho probably didn't need it but I wasn't asked. I had the spare parts but they didn't ask that either. oh well. Small tweeks and I will see how it runs. Stay tuned.<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

    • Official Post

    Duncan, As bad as it was it could have been worse. Being as the front U-joint failed, the driveshaft could have beat holes in your floor pan. Worse than that even, the driveshaft could have hit the ground and acted as a pole vault for your Kar. Not that it would have flipped but you would have had one heck of a wild ride. That is part of the reason for driveshaft loops in race cars. Alls well that ends well in my opinion and I am happy to hear that you and your Kar are both whole.


    -Fred-

    65 Koupe early San Jose Phoenician Yellow 4 speed
    66 GT Koupe Dearborn Blue 4 speed
    66 KGT San Jose fastback pony interior Silver Frost 4 speed
    64 Falcon sedan delivery 289 4 speed
    65 Ranchero 289 4 speed
    66 Corvette roadster 427/425 4 speed

    i will give you a little word of advice on buying u-joints , you want to buy one with no grease zerk because they are solid and stronger , the ones with zerks are hollow , we found that out while drag racing.

    I have heard that from other " racers ", and the ones that went into the Kar are non-zerc fitting U-joints. Will pick up today, but will test drive before paying..... I've been bit a few times recently...Stay tuned....<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

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