I drove my restomod 66' vert yesterday, and when I really got on it, as speed built up rapidly, the steering felt so over powered that it was hard to keep in a straight line. I'm considering going back to manual, and it already has the quick steering kit, ratio, and Shelby lowering, any suggestions about what I need that is additional and how this needs to be done? Thanks in advance, I am getting close!! ![]()
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switch back to manual steering
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when the alignment was checked, where was the caster set at? too far negative will give a 'loose' wander feel to the steering.
While greater caster angles serve to improve straight-line stability, they also cause an increase in steering effort. if you go too far positive it could create vibration and shock hitting bumps
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when it was aligned, I believe he used Ford factory settings, are these in some way not right?

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I don't have the shop book here, but found a web site that shows power steering cars at 2 degrees positive, manual cars at 1/4 positive. I think it was from one of the mustang magazine articles. you have nothing to loose by double checking it and moving it higher if it's not there now. I never drove a power steering kar, I don't know if there are any adjustments to the assist.
of course, this only matters if there are no other issues with the front end, but I'm thinking all you parts are new and bearings adjusted?
did you get a copy of the print out when it was done? if so you won't spend money on a re-check just to see.
on other thing I thought of... after I changed some parts in my front end, about a month later I found I could tighten the strut rods some more. this will effect caster.
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found this in the archives..
Alignment specs for lowered Mustangs (only):
Chuck Cantwell, Shelby American GT 350 project engineer recommended 2 degrees positive caster, 1 degree negative camber and 1/8 " toe in for all years of Shelby Mustangs. You can play with settings for different applications.
2.0 with man. steering, so does the lowering do something to exagerate the power steering feel?
found this too:
Wouldn't lowering the A-Arms on a powersteering car reeck havoc on the Caster settings with regards to feel?
Especially with radial tires. I personally don't like the feel of 60's Ford products with powersteering. But I know from Jeff's writings that the specs on the alignment change and looking at them it seems to me you would lose any remaining "road feel".
(posted by beagle)
looks to me like p/s begone!
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I would never leave power steering on a performace
Mustang. My 67 Shelby came with PS and I replaced it with
manual and lowered the front upper pivots according
to the Boss 302 Chassis Manual. I have mine set as my
65 Shelby, 2 Degrees Caster, 0 Degrees Camber and 1/8"
Toe In. Drives like a charm and I have never had any problems
with tire wear. If you go negative on Camber you will most
likely see increased tire wear. To replace a PS on a 67 to
manual is very easy, pitman, idler and steering link
only. To do the same on a 65/66 I believe you need new tie rods as well if I don't recall wrong.
Good luck, Bo
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I put P/S on several of my Kars as I like it. I also did the Shelby mod on the upper control arms. I set the camber at 0 degrees and the toe at 1/8 inch. The caster is at 1 1/2 positive. I have put over 60,000 miles on the Kar with no adverse tire wear on radial tires.
I did put P/S on a 65 fastback a number of years ago and left the manual steering box in it. It was a very squirrely car to drive because the steering had too much power with the manual ratio steering box. I replaced the steering box with the correct one and the problem went away. You might verify that your box is 4 turns lock to lock and not 5 turns.
-Fred-
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Fred, I have ALL the quick steering stuff in it, so the quick ratio box is in it. I think no power steering is the way to go, at this point, it comes off easily enough. Putting a different steering box, with the shaft, etc., is too much when it steers like a hipo without the PS. Thanks to all for the great input.
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