Driveshaft Question

    I've read the driveshaft postings (3 threads) and this may be a new question. I have just finished prepping the shaft for restoration.


    I'm going to paint my driveshaft because I can't stand the thought of it spinning beneath me as I tool down the road, me having fun, it pitting and rusting all over again. It was a mess!


    I am assuming, at this point, that the shafts were bare metal from the factory. It appears that the ends were phosphated black; they had no pitting, and only minor surface rust under the black. Opinions from those who know more about this?


    If the shafts were indeed bare metal: does anyone have suggestions on a paint that would match ACAP the original look of a newly-made driveshaft as it came off the line? Over this I would re-stencil the stripes and numbers I found on the Kar; more on this data later.


    Thanks in advance!

    Well: no one has replied to this.


    So, I guess I'll paint my driveshaft with clear and take grief because I don't want to keep an oil-soaked rag on it or let it rust back to where I found it.


    Anyone out there been in this situation before me?

    There are two paints you could try, though nothing really resembles bare metal. You could look at Seymour Stainless Steel for one. There is also an aerosol paint specifically for wheels and the color is just called "steel" and I can't recall if it is Plasti Kote or Duplicolor but can take a look if you can't find it.

    I recently finished one as follows:

    1. Glass beaded the entire shaft without U-joints.

    2. Wiped it down with phosphate metal prep which is a rust inhibitor.

    3. Spray painted it with Duplicolor Engine clear (which is gloss) and immediately second coated it with Krylon matte clear.

    4. If you are going for show you need to put the color code stipes on before immediately after you use the metal prep.


    When it drys it is a flat finish and from 2 to 3 feet away it looks like bare steel. I hate rust spots 10 times worse than a points deduction for coating what is supposed to be natural. It also cleans much easier and touch ups are simple and undetectable.


    There may be better ways to do it but this inexpensive way works good for me.

    Thanks for the replies. I'll look at the metal paints to see how they appear, but it looks like I may go with the clear recommendations that have been made.


    I'll report back my results, hopefully with a picture.

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