Posts by rockhouse66_old

A couple of years ago the basic Griffin radiator (not the extra cooling version) had a formed top tank similar to an original. The one with the larger tubes does have a smooth formed top tank. I tried to determine if their basic radiator still had a stock look before posting this response, but their website is useless in this regard. I suggest you call them.

Why not go to http://www.pure-gas.org and see if there is a station near you that sells ethanol-free 93 octane? It will eliminate any compatibility issues and your patronage might contribute to continued sale of 100% gasoline.

I haven't used him, but "the guy" in Australia is well thought of by many. Read here;

http://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php/topic,11253.0.html

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…hTerms=arvinode

There is a very nicely done 427 65/66 fastback in Greenville, SC. Owned by Jerry Mason and stored at his hot rod shop. I was told it was done by grafting a '67 front clip onto the car but I don't know if this is true. I do know it looks very factory under the hood and still retains the shock towers.

The eBay seller I am referring to is merfhill, still registered, but I don't see any car parts after 2008.

There was a very active eBay seller of Cobra Jet parts (and other stuff) for several years, up until maybe two years ago, from Moulton. The story was they were liquidating the junkyard; this may be the final chapter?

There are two paints you could try, though nothing really resembles bare metal. You could look at Seymour Stainless Steel for one. There is also an aerosol paint specifically for wheels and the color is just called "steel" and I can't recall if it is Plasti Kote or Duplicolor but can take a look if you can't find it.

All I can tell you is I bought mine about 2 years ago and was very disappointed that they screwed up something so basic/simple. It was not close, with even the size of the letters being off. Perhaps they have improved the design since then.

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In case anybody is interested, I purchased a new set of reproductions (Scott Drake) last spring to replace my pitted originals. I thought the quality was beyond excellent. I had to use my original screws to hold the finger tabs on though b/c the new ones supplied were too short to use. No big deal.

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I agree the Drake ones look nice. Too bad they failed to get the lettering fonts anywhere near close to the originals

No, you need a "double hump" clip to retain the two lines together on the driver side.

I have spoken to a place in Tallahassee, FL called Pot Metal Restorations but have not used them. Anyone have experience with them or a recommendation?

Here is the rod arrangement if this helps;

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VHT wheel paint goes on nicely and comes in Argent Silver. I have used it but wasn't trying to match a specific shade so can't comment on how well it will match what you have.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/wheelpaint.html

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Could you provive some details for the clamp on the drain hose?

Jim

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It is one of those wire spring clamps, like you see on PCV hoses only larger.

This is original plastic sheet and tape as shown in the assembly manual (I think!);

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Edited by - rockhouse66 on 08/17/2010 09:33:30

The '66 Interior Assembly Manual shows two screws holding the rear of the rear carpet, under the back seat, and two screws in the rear carpet near the rear of the sill/scuff plates. I know my car had the two under the back seat; don't recall about the other two.

Do you have an Assembly Manual ('65 could be different)?

Yes Charles, GT 4-speed, A-code. And that is the original dual exhaust system visible. When I learned "real" GTs had this squared plate, I had to run out to check! <img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

Yes, please excuse me for lurking here, only an A-code<img src=images/icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

My 9/65 San Jose FB had almost a salmon/pink looking red oxide on it before restoration. It was also on very thin (no runs and a few bare spots).

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