Posts by 5boltK_old

I have just come across a supplier that has a bin of small block Ford mid 60's core pumps. He doesn't know what he has but is willing to sell me the cores with a rebuild at a very reasonable price. I know the difference between the HIPO impeller and standard but I don't know the casting numbers. What should I look for?

I just had an original one rebuilt yesterday here in Kansas City for $55.00. I did not want to take a chance in losing an original pump. I carried it in and handed it directly to the man doing the rebuild. First pump I had him do was years ago and it's still working perfect.

This is the insulator from one end of your clutch return spring. There is supposed to be one on each end.

Call Petronix. I've talked to them before on the differences between the Petronix I & II. I felt they were honest and basically used common sense. I'm sure they can answer your question about III.

I'm wrapping up the assembly of the K engine and just installed the HM high rise dual plane intake. Stock heads, stock cam and valve train. Standard bore and crank. Hardened seats, Keith Black pistons, new rings, bearings and cam gears and chain. Petronix, stock exhaust manifolds. Basically a stock K code from top to bottom except for the intake.

My question is carburetion. We have the original 1.12 manual choke that is in good condition. Our machinist suggested going with a better carburetor especially with this intake. What carburetion would be better than the original shoe box?

While at the "cabin fever" swap meet in Wichita, KS last weekend, I picked up a repair kit an NOS # C3AZ 9349 B. The MPC show this for a 352/390 engine. It looks like it would work on my 3732S or 3734S screw together pumps which were original to the 260/289. Anyone had experience putting this kit in for use on their 289K?

After checking with a couple of shops to see if they have a distributor machine and getting "blank looks", I found one that has the machine and lots of springs for the weights. Mine is missing one of the springs on the centrifugal weights. The older gentlemen said to bring it in and for $35 to $50 he will get the weights back to factory specs. My 65 shop manual shows the timing advances at the various distributor rpms for my exact numbered distributor. I made a copy of this and will give this to the shop to follow. In everyone's experience, is this the best route to follow?

I just cleaned up the C3OF 12127 D dated 3ME and removed the plate above the centrifugal advance weights. The rectangular plate is stamped 13 degrees and there is a spring on only one side on the weights. The other side has the same bracket for a spring but no spring. Should it be there or did Ford only use one on the dual point distributors? This is a 64.5 engine. I'm also putting in the Petronix system made for the dual point distributor. Any recommendations?

We're getting closer to dropping the engine and tranny in as a unit. We put the exhaust manifolds on as we want pictures of the engine from all sides before its installed. Does it make the install that much more difficult by leaving the hipo manifolds on the engine?

Charles makes good sense. I'm going to keep it a generator car and keep looking for the correct pulley.

On a July 64 engine, a generator is required for originality. They are not expensive and appear to be plentiful but the large hipo pulley appears to be nonexistent. The tin shield was in the trunk of the car and is in fairly good condition. This is not going to be a concours show car but I would like it to be original in all reasonable respects. I'm not paying $950 plus for a NOS fuel pump like the no sale that just ended on ebay.

In lieu of a non hipo pulley what are people using or does anyone know where a hipo generator pulley can be purchased? Would it be advisable to switch it over to a '65 alternator system? I hate to think of changing out the underdash harness to a '65 but I do have a perfect one.

I recently finished one as follows:

1. Glass beaded the entire shaft without U-joints.

2. Wiped it down with phosphate metal prep which is a rust inhibitor.

3. Spray painted it with Duplicolor Engine clear (which is gloss) and immediately second coated it with Krylon matte clear.

4. If you are going for show you need to put the color code stipes on before immediately after you use the metal prep.

When it drys it is a flat finish and from 2 to 3 feet away it looks like bare steel. I hate rust spots 10 times worse than a points deduction for coating what is supposed to be natural. It also cleans much easier and touch ups are simple and undetectable.

There may be better ways to do it but this inexpensive way works good for me.

430dragpack's dates on his engine appear to be about one month ahead of ours. I can't change what we have as the teardown we just finished with was the first time this engine was opened since it was built by Ford. The engine is going into a K Code fastback that we purchased 20 years ago without a drivetrain.

I also sent 289route66 a PM

Didn't see any dates painted on anywhere. There is a smear of light green paint across the back of the block right below the intake. The latest date I could find was the 4G11 stamped on the front of the block.

Our 5 bolt K just came back from the machine shop. It was freshened up with new Keith Black standard bore pistons and Clevite standard crank and rod bearings. In the tear down on the back of the block was painted in yellow HP and 6464. We didn't know what this meant until we read this topic posted. We then found 6464 stamped into the boss above the swing bar pivot. The VIN # of 5F08K168930 is stamped into the block above the pan on the front passenger side. The same number is stamped lengthwise along the bottom the HEH-S toploader. The aluminum tag off of the intake reads: 289 64 1 on the top line and 4-G 544-B on the second line.

The block cast# is C4OE-6015-F dtd 4G1. Both heads # 21 are dtd 4D24 and the stamped boss on the front of the block reads 4G11C. Hope this info helps.