Engine Paint

I have used Rustoleum Satin Black #7777 with good results. Enamels bake on the engine. I think I am repeating others, but cleanliness of the metal before painting is very important. Misting the engine first, then follow with the first coat. Let dry for 48 hours, then apply second coat. Let dry for 48 hours. I have had good results doing this. But, if you drive the car a lot (I did with daily drivers in the 1970s-90s), the paint will eventually come off in a few years. It can only take so much. But, for a K-code seeing limited driving, it will last a long time.

Rustoleum takes a LONG time to dry, but traditional high temp engine paint also works very good and dries fast! I used VHT on mine and it was super easy and dries fast so you can put on multiple coats the same day.

I use catalyzed paint on engines with no problem. PPG acrylic enamel.

I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with ceramic, Semi-gloss Black DE1635. It's relatively inexpensive and available at most local parts stores.

I'm pleased with the end results and it allows easy touch ups when needed.

Please don't ever use gloss black on an engine block. It makes me move on to the next car much too fast....

Valve covers were a gloss, but not like your super high-gloss, ultra smooth finishes today. They were just quickly painted and often not all that well. I have seen runs and uneven coverage. Most restorations have better finishes on the valve covers and air cleaners that Ford ever did. I will show two pictures. One is of an NOS red 63 air cleaner. It will give you an idea of the shine. The second is a close up of the finish on a 1963-64 289 HiPo air cleaner. You can see what I mean by a rather "textured" paint job.

[Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/aircleaner63-1.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/289HiPoAirCleaner.jpg]