Type of Carb and Intake Manifold?

The pictures are a little limited - but here goes:

1- Carb is an aftermarket Holley double pumper - not original - there is a list number on the front upper choke flange that will tell you more. I had one of these (600cfm) on my HioPo for many years. Ran AWESOME when the carb was right - which was about 70% of the time - ran like a dog 30% of the time and I'd have to tinker with it. Not great for gas mileage, but boy was it ever awesome for racing and putting your foot in it when all 4 open up together! Still have this carb on my parts shelf.

2 - Intake - Aftermarket SHELBY lettered intake - over the counter part - not original to any Mustang or Shelby.

3 - Valve covers - they are probably aftermarket reproductions - I'm not an expert on these.

4 - Manifolds - from the one picture it is hard to tell for sure, but it looks to me like a HiPo manifold - BUT these have been reproducded for a few years - and the one shown is in awefully GOOD condition. I've never seen the repops up close so again I can't say for sure.

I hope this helps.

Edited by - RalphJr on 08/31/2007 06:03:09

Pull a valve cover off, if "Buddy Bar Casting Co" is cast on the inside they're original. If not, they're repops.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Thanks. I added some additional photos. This is supposedly an original '66 K Code Fastback, but has a '65 K Code block. Does anything look suspicious or incorrect for a K code, in the photos?

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

Steve - There is no way this is an all original 66 K code Fastback. I know you are probably chomping at the bit to get a K code Mustang but I would suggest you do some researching on this wondeful forum and learn first hand about K code cars. It is very difficult to fully verify a K code with just a few photos.

If you buy one without all the correct K code parts it can be very expensive to put the car back original. True K code engine parts are sky high right now.

If you don't have the time to learn all the in and outs of a K code maybe you could get someone more knowledgeable to inspect the car for you.

Gary

I'm guessing the car is in CA. Maybe you could make a post for someone in the area to help you out. I'm in NH at the moment and can't do you much good in CA.

Please go slowly and make sure you know what you are paying for. I just had to buy an original fan and generator for a K code. Cost was around 1300.00. Just to purchase an original 4100 restored carb for this car will set you back 1000.00 to 1500.00. So, depending on what true K parts are on the car and if they have all the right date codes for the engine and car will greatly raise or lower the value of the vehicle.

I know Ralph has forgotten more than most know about K codes and you can rely strongly on what he tells you. The suggestion by Dave is another good idea.

Hope this helps.

Gary

Edited by - garymcgowan on 08/31/2007 13:00:22

Steve, What part of CA are you in? Is the car in your area? Chances are someone on this forum has seen or knows about the car. The pic's elude to a kar that has been modified, which leans towards the K specific parts maybe being original parts, but might not be correct/original for this car. Subframe connectors & the stambar/sway bar hint to someone building more of a mod type car vs. an original car. What's the vin #? Is the tranny the vin # stamped tranny for this car? My 65 San Jose KGTFB has a vin stamped San Jose 66 KFB motor in it. Maybe it came from this car? I bought the car out of the LA area. Stranger things have happened. Does the 65 block have a vin # stamping on it? It looks like this is a blue exterior, white interior GT. Does the door tag match the trim/paint codes? There was a blue 66 KGTFB that sold out of San Francisco about 2-3 years ago. It went up to Eldorado Hills (outskirts of Sacramento). It was supposed to have the original drivetrain. Don't know if it's the same car. Good luck on your research. Always buy the most complete car you can find, picking up the K specific parts gets pricy real fast.