please merge Gasman4571_old to Gasman4571
Thanks,
Kevin
please merge Gasman4571_old to Gasman4571
Thanks,
Kevin
i've still got 3 NOS valves left....<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
contact me...I have what you are looking for. Kevin
Of course, I still have 3 NOS valves left!<img src=images/icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>
I understand in not doing a "running" compression check, it definately hurts more! It will, however, give you a more realistic diagnosis of the condition. Engine parts will have been given a chance to expand at operating temps. A valve timing issue would show higher or lower readings based on early or late valve closing events. My worry is the almost 20% difference between Cylinders 1 and 4. Have you done a vacumm test to check for weak or broken valve springs? You may even have seats begining to burn from too loose a valve adjustment on 1, 2, and 3 with gases getting past the valves. Sorry to give you more homework to do. <img src=images/icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> Kevin
Are these static compression or running compression numbers?
okay...here goes for Dave and anyone else interested.
The PPG formula mix for 1965 Interior white is:
SKU D753 White Inc.(part)1077.7 Cum.(part)1077.7
SKU D778 Yellow Inc.(part)39.4 Cum.(part)1117.1
SKU D740 Black Inc.(part)8.0 Cum.(part)1125.1
SKU D779 Red Inc.(part)2.3 Cum.(part)1127.4
SKU D895 BC Color Binder Inc.(part)168.9 Cum.(part)1296.3
This formula will make one quart/adjust as needed for pints or gallons. It appears to me that the Cumulative total is by weight, as I watched the painter mix this formula on a digital scale. Any PPG re-seller should be able to mix this into a spray bomb.
Dave, If you give me till monday I'll get you the PPG paint mix for the white...I had the research department at PPG find the exact paint match and formula in their old paper books. I just had my dash painted and it is perfect! Kevin
I could always use another set...especially after moving my engine from one shop to the other, something fell on the valve cover and mashed it..<img src=images/icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle>
Got MM last night at the post office. Excellent article, great looking car Murf!!! Thanks again. Kevin <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Make sure the primary butterflies are correctly centered in the bores at the base of the carb. There should be just a little light showing around the plates in the venturis with the throttle lever at rest. An easy check with the carb installed is to disconnect the accelerator linkage and spring and manually operate the carb (engine off) to feel for any binding or sticking. Next, start the car and operate the throttle the same way, manually revving the engine and bringing it back down to idle. Disconnecting the linkage takes it out of the equation and can help you narrow down the problem. If it only happens with the linkage installed, start looking toward spring tension, bracket position, interference with the carpeting or a dry or rotted bushing at the firewall or pedal. Hope this helps, Kevin
Or cut the handle off with a hacksaw blade or Dremel and remove the pin with a pair of vise grips!<img src=images/icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>
I've bought a set from Calipersonline. These are the best calipers I've seen yet! They even include the stainless steel pistons and stainless sleeved bores. I'll never have issues with my calipers again. Kevin
Thanks Marv!!!!!
I've left my book at home this morning! I am going to order new jets today, but need to know the factory jet sizes for a 4100 hipo automatic carb. Thanks for the help! Kevin<img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
Or my NOS valves..just two left...and these are really for thoroughbred cars, just ask the Forum members!<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
sorry Ed..my Bad...an attempt at humor. <img src=images/icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>
Yes Brock...for all of us that are Special K, or was that Special Ed?!?
As a side note: If your alternator is an original Autolite teardrop case, pay the core charge, change out the guts from the new alternator to your old one. I had a rebuilder re-do my alternator and he re-used the front half of the case and tossed the back half.<img src=images/icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle>
Also check out this month's edition of MM. There is a picture of what is included in the kit. I believe it is in the first couple of pages.