Posts by mmv1966hipo

  • Y2 Radiator

    All comments are appreciated. I'll speak to the owner in about a week and ask if he is willing to sell/swap his radiator. I'll take a few more looks at it because I can't recall if the upper tank is original. For sure the top hat with the correct numbers is worth something.


    Mark V.

  • Y2 Radiator

    I've come across a Mustang radiator that has the top tank indicating a C4ZE Y2 W MO 4-65. The rest of the radiator is designed for an automatic with the tranny line connections at the bottom. I'm guessing because of the radiators rebuild tag, someone at some time had the raditor recored and for what ever reasons got a 4 speed top tank put on the top. Or, visa versa. Anyway, what do you folks think this radiator would be worth, knowing the top tank could add value for someoness Mustang. Remember, Y2 ONLY designates the car having a 4 speed. This would apply to San Jose cars. The radiator does not belong to me.


    Mark Vasquez, Ca.

  • Battery Clamp Correct style -24F - 22F

    Jim,


    you are correct with the originals being stamped. I don't have access to any thing like that. What I'm attempting to do is create a limited part that can be used for the sole pupose of concourse judging. This piece is made from zinc aluminum which will not rust as the originals did. I'm being open about how it's made so everyone will have a choice as to whether they would want one or not.


    Mark V.

  • Battery Clamp Correct style -24F - 22F

    The casting process is proving to be quite cumbersome. Even if I cast a perfect piece, the new piece needs a lot of work to clean it up. Using a dremel or small grinder is a must. In addition, as you know with cast parts, they have small pits and minor imperfections. In creating a perfect piece, the cast part will have to have some form of bondo or metal filler applied to cover up the pits. This is proving to be a lot of work. I can do it, but it would raise the cost to where I feel it wouldn't be worth my time. What I might consider is casting the piece and then letting perspective buyers do their own clean up of the part. As you can see with these pictures, the battery hold down is not absolutely perfect as in stamped metal.


    [Blocked Image: http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w97/mmvprv/P5200046Medium.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w97/mmvprv/P5200047Medium.jpg]


    all of your comments will be appreciated. I will only do a limited number of these castings.


    Mark Vasquez

  • Battery Clamp Correct style -24F - 22F

    Okay, first test piece made. It has flaws,but then again I'll have to determine how much additional work is required to come up with a good painted piece. On this test, I used a piece that wasn't perfect. As you can see, the flaws got transfered. I'll keep you folks posted.


    Mark Vasquez (bottom is original piece)


    [Blocked Image: http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w97/mmvprv/Battery-Clamp1.jpg]


    Edited by - mmv.hipo on 05/05/2009 21:31:24

  • Battery Clamp Correct style -24F - 22F

    I know this has been discussed more than once and as of this date no Mustang parts organization has produced the correct style with the battery TANG. I'm going to make a limited run on the group 24F style and perhaps the group 22F style. These will be exact in detail with the correct angles and with the cutout. In talking with Dave Wallace last weekend, I decided it would benefit a few who really want to add that realistic detail. I will post pictures hopefully next week of my progress. I do not know the cost as of yet. That will be determined if I can make a part that everyone sees as being correct.


    Mark Vasquez

    1966 Hipo, Ca.

  • What other types of cars do you own?

    I haven't contributed for a while, but I'll add to this thread:


    1966 GT Fastback, signalflare red

    1966 HiPo GT Coupe, Wimbleton White

    1968 Convertible, Candy Apple Red

    1970 Boss302, Light Gold Metalic

    1989 Saleen, Red, all original 28,000 miles

    1993 SVT Cobra, Vibrant Red, original 11,000 miles


    New project 1968 Fastback, will be powered by a REAL Boss302 engine.

    [Blocked Image: http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w97/mmvprv/PB130067.jpg]

  • 1967 C7ZF Rear Shocks

    I've been going through some older parts that I have and came across a set of C7ZF-18080 A3 Rear shocks. I was going to use them when I build my 68, but I've decided to sell them to someone who could use them on a concours restoration. These shocks were made in the USA with fine threads. The other set I have are C8OF-18080 K1, Made in Canada course thread. E-mail me if you're in need of this type of rear shock. Pictures available upon request.


    Price on shocks = 300.00 for C7's and 200.00 for C8's


    Mark


    mmv.boss302@att.net


    Edited by - mmv.hipo on 07/03/2008 20:08:49

  • Tire size...

    the height size will be determined by your tire clearance. Many cars will take the 215 size in a 60 series, but the biggest challenge might be tire clearance when making sharp turns. Have your tire dealer mount different size tires for you to actually see them on the car. I've noticed on many early Mustangs that the right side typically has less front tire clearance.


    Mark V.

  • Ford Original Style Tie Rods

    I have two sets of original style 65-66 manual tie rod end setups. These were taken off California cars with low mileage. The grease boots have been replaces with NOS boots, (c5zz-3332-a) the tie rods have been refurbished and assembled with all correct hardware. These are complete, ready to install. Email me if you're interested. These are for Concours type cars only. Pictures avilable by request only.


    mmv.boss302@att.net


    Mark Vasquez