Posts by rds289k

    I have a 65 FB and am trying to figure out which type of tie down plate was used with HiPos: short or long?


    Does anyone have experience with these, or has an original with the tie downs still on them as shipped from the factory?


    Or, a source of info on this?


    Thanks in advance!


    =rds

    Thanks for the replies, guys!


    I'm going to try a charcoal, but I'd really like to hear from someone who has nailed the original color as they restored their wheels. I'll keep looking for someone to share on this site for all to benefit. We're all in this together, mates!


    Is this a great hobby, or what?

    I fiddled around with paint mixes at my local paint store. After 3 tries we came up with one that was close, in case anyone wants to dabble with this further. This is what we did:


    Plasi-Kote Universal Blend paint

    Color: Light Brownstone Metallic (code 27395) - used PPC

    Ingredients:

    M126 32.2

    M108 32.2

    M127 26.8

    M117 16.1

    M134 10.6

    M121 0.4

    M119 0.2

    M102 5.0

    M103 134.1


    Plus 4 drops Jet Black 802


    After doing this, it was REAL close to the original color on my wheels, enough that only a hard look would detect the difference. In small spots and scratches it does not show a difference. I think 2 more drops of Jet Black would seal the deal for larger area repaints.


    In summary, the color in the early 65 wheels isn't really argent - it's more brown than silver. Instead of starting with a dark silver and adding brown, I ended up starting with a mild cinammon brown and tinting it with black and silver.


    Hope this helps someone else touching up their early styled steel wheels!

    Charles:


    I couldn't get the PM to work. Yes, I would like the paint code since I am going for a perfect match. Shooting the color on the paint isn't working, since the patch is too small to get an effective reading.


    I will also look at VHT colors, try the Ford place, etc. Appreciate your help, guys!

    Thanks for the tip on removing rivets! As for condition of plate - well, it's gonna have some character, that's for sure. It's a pity that one gets docked points for original parts that show their patina. Smacks of "ageism" to me.

    I am cleaning my original doorplate prior to re-mounting it.

    Two questions:


    1) Has anyone touched up the black of the plate (scratches, etc), and if so, what brand/color of black were you successful with? A brush-on product would seem best here. I'm thinking flat black, or maybe engine bay semi-flat.


    2) The rivets to re-mount the plate - sources?


    Thanks!

    I spoke with Chuck Barbero of Distributor Dynamics, and he thinks that it could easily have been fit into a 64.5 Kar. These distributors, acc Chuck, were batch-made, and sat around in a bin on the line until a K order rolled through every now and then. So, the date, could ahve been off by as much as several months.

    Update:


    The Clear Zinc turns out to have a little too much blue in it, so I will try the Eastwood Detail Grey.


    I studied the gear case color of my differential and that of a 66 Mustang. Both match. This paint has been bathed in gear oil and has been protected from both the elements and repainting by others. It closely resembles the paint that was also painted on its external side, but the exterior side has also born some weathering and grime, so a good amount of it on the outside is hard to see, even after cleaning.


    What I do see, both in and out, is that both cases have a red paint that is more red than that of those I have see painted and shown on this site and in Gregory's book 3rd ed (p.57), all of which seem a bit on the orange side. I realize that workers on the line sprayed what was in the gun, and thus there are some possible differences by factory or day of the week. My diffs tell me that the color is a bit more like red oxide than orange oxide.


    I can post a picture. Trying to figure out how to do that...

    I am missing a piece of my rear quarter vent door assembly - it left the shop somehow. It is the static metal plate with holes that the interior pieces mount and slide upon to provide rear quarter ventilation for the FB.


    Does anyone out there have a set for a 65 for sale?


    Thanks!

    Thanks for the info!


    Charles: the Eastwood Clear Zinc product has a silvery glint to it, so I'll try that for the snubber bracket.


    Eastwood also retails paint called Detail Gray, which I have used for a natural cast metal look. Both seem to hold up very well.

    In response to queries:


    My distributor is a C3OF 12127-D with a date code of 3KB. I suspect that this came from a very late 63 - early 64 HiPo Fairlane. I have seen another example of this dizzy (in person) on a HiPo Fairlane.


    Mine has the manual oil lube cap on the side, and no blocked vacuum adv housing as on the 12127-Fs. Please refer to Bob Mannel's reference book: p 3-49, photo 3H2d, as well as 4-47, photo 4H1


    My distributor is in perfectly restored and show-ready shape. It can be used on a 1964 car; mine is early 65. Waah!


    For some reason, the shaft is too long for a 65 block. Chuck Barbero said he can change this for me if I can't get my local guy to do it.


    I could put it on my Mar 01 car, but the period correct one has a different support housing contour. I'd be interested in a trade to obtain period correct, and can send photos of what I have. Please PM me if interested in a trade and/or if you have what I need.


    If no one has one to trade, I'd still like to buy one! The car won't run without it.


    Thanks for the interest,

    =rds

    I need a dual point distributor, rebuilt or rebuildable, for my Mar 65 Kar. Date code range Dec64-Feb65 would work fine.


    I have an earlier one but it is a mite too early. I could use it, but I'd rather get closer to build date (Mar 01 65).


    Any offers out there?


    Thanks,

    rdsieber