Posts by gjz30075
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You got it....
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Here's another angle to consider: colors that are/were considered ugly look much better with today's paint makeup, ie, urethane, etc. when prepped and buffed properly. I'm not a fan of Springtime Yellow but I saw one recently that was repainted and it had really straight panels and tremendous depth to the paint. It was a stunner!
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I, too, am interested, as I have nothing for my car. I've got a feeling this is going to be plant/build date specific.
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Agree with Dunc on the dollar difference. Worth thinking about. I missed getting a '66 Shelby project because I was several thousand below his price and all my Shelby experts said his price was too high at......30K! <img src=images/icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle> It was only five years ago.
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Just to begin the referencing, my Oct '65 built San Jose '66 fastback has the welded in studs
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Many things can cause clutch shudder but "recently appeared" are your key words here. The clutch linkage could have come loose, or the rear main is beginning to leak and contaminating the disc and/or flywheel. Also, maybe the disc is worn down enough now to score and burn the flywheel.
Certainly check the linkage first. New bushings for the linkage are cheap and easy to do.
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Tony, to properly diagnose, this is a two person job. One to slowly push the pedal down and the other to follow the linkage and find the lost motion. It could be a lot of little worn areas are adding up to lots of lost motion felt at the pedal.
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Sorry, I assumed wm65's second post (the third post in this thread)was his rejection because of the wrong type of panel. I posted next. Sorry.
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Sorry, meant for Caspian65
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Charles, email sent.
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Right. Otherwise, you'd need a longer axle if the extra 5/8" or so is outboard.
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Interesting. I can say this: My 'A' code, San Jose 10/65 build with a DSO of 71 has the thermactor (sp?) heads but the air ports have been plugged and the rest of the smog stuff gone. I don't know if K's were any different. I'm anxious to hear others.
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Gary, in the picture, look right below the curved part of the clutch arm that would contact the upstop. You'll see a triangular rubber bumper; it's the upstop for the brake pedal. The brake pedal is 'pressed down' at the moment.
NPD has a generic upstop for the clutch. It doesn't have the rib you see in the picture next to the carriage bolt head. Check pg 110 in their catalog. If you download their catalog, you'll find it in the Transmission section. Good luck!
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Gary, you might be missing the pedal upstop. Its a bracket that is bolted to the pedal hanger and has a rubber block on it. As far as I know, there is nothing on the dash for a pedal upstop.
[Blocked Image: http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1059/1458/130503.jpg]
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I've got a set of repro style steel wheels, date coded from '91, don't know the mfgr but they are 15 x 7, with virtually brand new Aurora tires on them, two are 225/60 and the other two are 215/60. They are nice driver quality but one wheel has two 'spokes' that could use a touchup of paint. $450.
My email is gjz30075@bellsouth.net
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Great writeup Murf. Thanks for the diligence but I hope we all don't have to go through 15 months of agony for our sets. Hopefully they're fixing the problems as a result.
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Yes, there are two places on the driver's side and the rear most one is hidden under the fender. San Jose cars didn't come with buck tags, IIRC.
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The D10E... indicates a '71 302 block
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Looks like it met reserve and sold.