The rear brakes are locking up too soon, so I want to adjust the prop valve to allow less braking force to the rear brakes.
Which way do I turn it, screwing it in, or out ? The Ford shop manual is no help as it just says to leave it alone.
thanks,
Z. Ray
'66 GT-350
Try this website for information
He has great instructions for rebuilding the prop valve - this might help. I just rebuilt mine but haven't installed it yet. I would think you need to increase the spring force by moving the big screw further in - but I'm not sure which direction without looking at it - probably clockwise. This should increse the pressure point where the back brakes kick in.
I hope this helps.
Stanger site has the best info. I had Mark Farrier sleeve mine and he did a great job. His instructions have info that says that increasing spring tension by turning in the adjuster is supposed to provide more hydraulic pressure to the fronts.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Stanger site has the best info. I had Mark Farrier sleeve mine and he did a great job. His instructions have info that says that increasing spring tension by turning in the adjuster is supposed to provide more hydraulic pressure to the fronts.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
So far all the feedback I've recieved contradicts this.
Randy @ http://www.stangerssite.com/ sent me this email: "...I believe threading the adjuster OUT increases the pressure to the front brakes, which decreases the rear.
I have not tried this myself, but this is the way I have read it adjusts...."
and I've have heard the same from a couple of other sources. However, I've not tried this out yet. I can't break loose the nut on the prop valve with it installed, and have decided to wait to remove & adjust it until I'm ready to change the brake fluid at the same time.
Cresting a hill & seeing a car stopped just ahead, It's pretty "exciting" when the rear brakes lock up sending the car into a slide.
a) Didn't want to let up on the brakes as the stopped car ahead was looming closer,
but
b) wanted to ease up on the brakes as the slide was becoming uncontrolable.
lucky for all concerned the car ahead turned left & there was no opposing traffic as I slid across the yellow line and made my own unorthodox left turn.
Z. Ray
'66 GT-350
Here's the info from the site. Hope this helps, and good luck getting the nut loose.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Unit can be adjusted by loosening adjuster lock nut and screwing adjuster sleeve in or out to desired effect. Be sure to tighten down adjuster lock nut each time. Threading the sleeve outwards will increase the pressure going to the calipers on the front wheels, threading in will decrease it. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
has anyone evre tried this adjustment of the factory prop. valve ? How sensitive to adjustment are they?
Z. Ray
'66 GT-350
I tried it several years ago but only to get my rears to unlock so not really sure how sensitive the adjustment is, IIRC the described procedure is correct. I tried rebuilding my prop valve which was a total disaster even though I follwed the method on the Stanger site exactly. It looked fine but had scores in the bore that were almost invisible to the naked eye so when I put it back together the piston(s) hung up and the rears would lock. Ended up having it professionally resleeved/rebuilt and it's been great since then.
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