Posts by SHELB66_old

    Here's my 2 cents: With respect to eBay, maybe some forum members just don't want to bring to the attention of others a certain find that they may be watching in hopes that possibly they might win the auction. Personally, I have come across some very good deals where the description was too vague or even incorrect and the item turned out to be a desirable/rare part! There are some gems to be found! This could be one reason for the increased silence with respect to items out there for sale.

    The last post for sales info regarding parts was 8/23!!


    Edited by - SHELB66 on 09/14/2008 00:31:49

    Since there is no mention in the title description of "HiPo" or "K-Code", not everyone will spot this when doing their eBay searching. Lack of reserve probably indicates that owner looks at this as being a new Ford fan and may not realize how difficult it is to come across this particular high performance version. The current market will tell all! Heck, if I buy something for $20 and sell it for $40 I'm a happy camper (and so is the wife!). She's always telling me to move that inventory! This fan looks to be the real deal and it will be interesting to see that final bid!


    Craig R.

    Update:


    As my dad once said, "Success Smiles Upon Us". After a long hiatus due to my "real" job consuming all of my time, I just got the upper trans bolt out on the driver's side. I removed the 4-spd trans tunnel and was able to access the bolt from the top with the swivel socket and extension as was recommended earlier. It was a little loose anyway so not too difficult to remove. Hopefully the rest of the job will be pretty straight forward as I have replaced clutches before (where have we heard that before?). All I can say now is that this clutch had better last a LONG time. Thanks to all who provided info in helping with my dilemma.


    Craig

    I agree with REAL K GT in that this should be considered a modified K-Code instead of a Shelby. I did e-mail the owner for some clarification and this is the donor car with the original Shelby parts installed. I do not know if the original Shelby was destroyed or not. Who knows! That original VIN could be floating around somewhere if any of the front apron or shock tower areas were salvaged. Car is in the SAAC Registry but no mention is made of it being rebodied. That info really should be in there especially since this owner has had this car for 20 years! It will be interesting to see what this car will fetch.

    Update:


    1 bolt loose (passenger side) using Fred's method. THANKS!! The driver's side looks much more difficult as I can barely see the bolt. I may be able to get to it through the 4-spd shifter hole in the passenger compartment. I'm actually working on a '64 Ranchero and not my Shelby but I assume the procedure would be the same so that's why I posted for some help. More positive news to follow, I hope! Thanks for all of the advice.


    Craig

    Thanks, Fred, for the info. I was trying that but initially was using a 1/2" drive with a swivel extension attached to the socket. Your idea sounds much better as the smaller socket drive (3/8") AND using the swivel socket is not as big and bulky as my setup. So it's off to the store to expand my tool collection! I will keep you posted. Thanks again!

    Craig

    I am having a difficult time removing the 2 upper transmission to bellhousing bolts on one of my cars. The transmission is a 4spd toploader bolted to a 289. The bellhousing has the Borg Warner bolt pattern so when the toploader is bolted up one needs to use the inner bolt holes on the transmission flange instead of the outers. Bottoms are easy but the upper ones can barely be seen. Anyone out there go through this and if so any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated. I have removed the cross member so that I can tilt the trans for a little more clearance but that doesn't seem to help too much. Thanks in advance. All I'm trying to do is install a new clutch.


    Craig

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Thanks Fred for keeping track of the Ebayers out there looking to scam us. <img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>He does have an excellent feedback rating and does not appear to be trying to "scam" someone. If the price is too high, just move along. The ultimate purchase price, if it does sell, will indicate its current value to someone at this particular time. Tomorrow could be different.

    Make sure that the rotor is pointing to #1 piston position on distributor cap at END of the COMPRESSION stroke (NOT exhaust stroke) and you are lined up with TDC. With the valve covers off, it is easy to tell where you are at because you can follow the movement of the valves.

    Otherwise, you can take the #1 plug out and cover the whole with your finger. You should be able to feel the air being forced out when you are on the compression stroke. Check/adjust engine timing once you get the engine going. Good luck!


    Craig

    I would like to put a real wood steering wheel on my '66 Hertz Shelby but will shy away from the ultra rare originals for now. I would like to have my original simulated plastic wheel (better yet, a good core) redone with real wood. I saw a couple of these installed on some pristine '66 GT350's at SAAC 32 last week but no one was available to ask regarding availability. These wheels REALLY did look NICE and appeared to be well done! Anyone out there have any info on who performs this work or who sells such a wheel outright? Any and all info is greatly appreciated (as always)!


    Craig

    My wife and I will be driving up from Petaluma, California. What better way to spend a vacation? I won't be bringing my '66 Hertz as I still want to take care of a couple of items (rear main seal & trans leak) before going on an extended trip. We will bring the "much more comfortable but not as noisy" Ford Escape instead. It should be a great event!

    I came across some heads at a swap meet this weekend labeled 289 HiPo. They did indeed have the valve spring pockets and screw in studs. Part number began with C4. However, I could not find a #19, #20, or #21 on the top corners. I did find a #21 on the underside of the head. The heads were bare ie no springs, valves, or rockers. Price was $200. I'm not sure if they sold or not as the seller's merchandise was all packed away when I came back. It was his turn to wander through the meet.