Thanks for the links Mark. Do I know you from lotuselan.net forum?
Greg Z
Thanks for the links Mark. Do I know you from lotuselan.net forum?
Greg Z
It's funny that even in the earlier pics, there's no hipo emblem on the fender. It's like this car never was.
I installed an LED kit I got from an ebay seller; Hipoparts I think is the brand (or the seller, can't remember). No mods required however, the bulbs don't sit that well in the sockets so I can understand the 'cut the springs' mod needed. The bulbs sit well enough in the sockets and I have had no problems in the several years they've been installed.
A very nice improvement but 'hot spots' can be seen, ie, it's brighter where the bulbs are because they don't cast light as well as an incadesent (sp?) bulb. I had a choice of colors and I chose green because it seemed to suit the 'vintageness' of the car.
Here's a good site to help decode sheet metal stampings:
Ah, I like your diversity. Really good British cars from the '60s are climbing like crazy. I also own a '72 Lotus Elan Sprint. Owned by me for 32 years. I enjoy both my '66 Mustang and Lotus equally.
Good luck!
Why? Just a hankerin' for something different?
Does it even have a 289 firing order? Probably best to compare it to another 289 cam.
Any fantasy bidding for this lot #?
I'll start. $37,000
Jim, that's good to hear. Thanks guys.
Charles, the results look great. This Evaporust doesn't look like it's easily obtainable. Did you get it right from their site?
And not a one shot of the underside
The difference is in the worm bearing preload and total preload. The AX box (power) has 3-4 inch/lbs of preload and the AW (manual) has 4-5 inch/lbs. The total preload (worm bearing plus sector mesh) is 9-10 and 8-9 inch/lbs, respectively.
I'm not a steering box expert; this info came from the shop manual.
The Georgia Regional Mustang club had a nice gathering at the local sports bar in Marietta this past Saturday and they hosted the Mustang Club of France. A great group, here on an extended (to us) holiday, eventually ending at Birmingham for the 45th.
Anyway, there was a maroon GT fastback 'K'ar ('66 maybe?) at the meeting but I couldn't find the owner. Could that have been someone on this forum?
Sorry I missed you!
Greg Z
Thanks Charles. The light bulb is finally glowing in my head now. I don't know why I kept thinking April, but the explanations certainly make sense now.
Guys, if you don't mind, I'd like to bring this up again. On the recommendation of rockhouse66, I bought the Bob Mannel book on small block Fords. What a fantastic reference! Thanks Jim.
Chapter 5 outlines the transition from 5 bolt to 6 bolt blocks.
I'm confused with what I have. My dates seem to indicate April of '64
[Blocked Image: http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii85/gjz30075/Mustang/289blockcode4.jpg]
And assembly shortly thereafter.
[Blocked Image: http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii85/gjz30075/Mustang/289blockcode2.jpg]
But it's a 6 bolt block, looking like what is pic a on page 5-9 (5A5) but the begining of the chapter indicates August as the transition point to 6 bolt blocks.
Am I interpreting these numbers wrong?
Thanks
Absolutely love it!
Nice photography. Did you take the shots?
"The problem on the block codes is that your car was made in October of 1965 and not October of 1964. Your October 1965 heads would seem to be correct."
That's what I thought. Thanks!
Hi all,
I Know you guys are the best at de-Koding the date codes and I wondered if my 10/65 San Jose 'A' code GT has a 'correct' block. Its date, on the casting, is 4G28 and stamped in various machined surfaces is 4H19 C and 4H19S. Its a C5AE block. The heads are 5K5.
I intrepret this block to be from April of '64 and probably too early for my car. Would this be correct?
Thanks!
I like the solid background one. It's already a somewhat busy poster and that seems to tone it down a bit.