Pony Carb Tri-power - experiences?

I have the concourse version of the Pony Carbs Tri-power setup. It uses the Blue Thunder intake and aircleaner, along with their Autolite 2100 series carbs and related linkages and fuel log. I had to cut a small length of the stock linkage rod to the center carb which was not a big deal. There is only one vacuum port on the back of the intake, so if you are running a C4, you will have to shorten and bend the vacuum tube slightly. I am also running my PCV valve from the back of the intake where the down draft tube would go, and run it to the bottom of the aircleaner. You will have to machine both the cleaner base and the intake cover. A stock distributor or one of the narrow MSD billet units will work, but the wires to the cap are pretty tight against the front carburetor. Also, purchase a universal hot air pickup to run to the choke for good heat. Hood clearance is an issue as I am running new stock engine mounts, but will see if I can get the engine to sit a bit lower. Getting at the center idle mixture adjustments are a huge pain especially on the drivers side even though the screws are hexagonal. A small wrench is just a pain for quick adjustments. Better off just using a small rubber hose pushed on the screw to turn. My unit came with the screws turned out 2 1/2 turns which for some reason has the screws literally falling out and the car running big time rich. Adjusted with the screws turned just 3/4 turn has the car running perfect. I will replace the screws with stock units as I feel there is something wrong with these after market units which are extremely loose and will not stay adjusted. I contacted Pony Carbs about this and they said that no way would the car run like this. Whatever. I am running a braided line with AN fittings from the fuel pump to the log. You will have to put an inline filter somewhere as well. For performance, go with a good high rise single carb setup instead. The tricarb is nice to look at though. The gizmo factor is right up there which is the main attraction. I am taking it off probably this week to try a single carb to see how it performs. I think a good moto is "Keep it simple dummy".

The machining here was for the screw in PCV valve in the intake plate and for the tube fitting on the bottom of the lid. I also purchased an FE Cleaner Lid which does not have the raised machined ridges all the way accross the top of the oval lid. (This means you will have to weld the front FE hole and drill a new one in the proper location. For looks. I machine the center raised fins and sanded it to a brushed finish. I also purchased a reproduction "289" Bird where the "390" Bird would go. It really looks awesome. I can send photos if someone wants to post it.) The underhood steel re-enforement at the front of the hood actually made contact here. I also machined about .060 from the bottom of the aircleaner lid boss that makes contact with the carb. Don't remove too much or you will block the fuel bowl vent hoes. As well, I have some aluminum carb spacers machined down to about .150" which is a bit thinner then the spacers provided. Anyless, and the aircleaner lid makes contact with the top of the distributor. Like I mentioned, my engine should settle and I will get it adjusted a bit to drop maybe another .125". With a Shelby type hood or even a few spacers at the hinges, you might be fine. Every engine sits a bit different, and I do expect mine to settle once I run the engine on the new engine mounts. After a season or so, I may go back to the tripower. I will have to check out the idle mixture screws on the bench. It may be that when screwed all the way in, the needle virtually falls out. I do think it is a well designed system, but hood clearance will be tight on most cars. Always check. I could always remove the spacers, and flycut the bottom of the lid above the deistributor another .160" . <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Having said all of this, nothing I do is a bolt on anyway. Aftermarket heads get a real valve job and bowls cleaned up. Headers around the inside of the head flange are filed flat where excess welds are. Pistons and rings are cleaned and deburred. You would be surprised how much aluminum material is hiding in there. Nothing fits like OEM as my mechanic anti-aftermarket Dad used to say.

Edited by - oscart on 08/06/2008 17:43:34