• I got my 65 k code on the road the other day with a rebuilt motor and all new components, it performed perfectly on the dyno and idles great but once it warms up going down the road it wants to miss under a load. we have checked everything and think maybe its the Holley 1850s 600 cfm manual choke, Ive been told by several other people one with a 66 gt350 that you'll never get it to run right unless you put the correct autolite 4100 that the hi po has characteristics that don't work well with the Holley?

    • Official Post

    Missing under a load is not usually carburetion unless the jetting is way off.

    The carburetor is purely an air/fuel mixture device and does not know what brand it is. Yes, some brands do beter than others with cetain aspects of their job. Holleys are better at all out acceleration than the 4100 but the 4100 performs better on average driving. The 4100 has annular discharge boosters which better atomize the fuel, that are a hot rod modification on Holleys. The Hipo 289 has very mild characteristics compared to other OEM manufacturers high performance engines, as in smooth idling. I always run 4100 carburetors on my Hipo 289 Kars just because of originality. The 4100 works well for driving as long as you do not let the air bleeds get plugged in the boosters. A Holley works fine but for me, the 4100 is original, although it is far more expensive to acquire.

    Your mileage may vary. :)

    -Fred-

    65 Koupe early San Jose Phoenician Yellow 4 speed
    66 GT Koupe Dearborn Blue 4 speed
    66 KGT San Jose fastback pony interior Silver Frost 4 speed
    64 Falcon sedan delivery 289 4 speed
    65 Ranchero 289 4 speed
    66 Corvette roadster 427/425 4 speed

  • P1030774 (2).jpgP1030775 (2).jpgI thought the same thing about the hesitation while cruising about 60mph you can feel a slight on and off jerking and immediately thought electrical but couldn't find anything wrong, the holley is new out of the box and I don't want to spend big money on a autolite if that's not the problem, I have a stock coil that doesn't have a built in resistor and the factory resistor wire hooked to the positive side of the coil, all new wiring from the firewall forward. And like I said it starts right up and idles good you can rev it up and hold it at 2k rpm and its smooth as silk?

    Edited once, last by CB65: attachments (July 4, 2023 at 10:30 PM).

  • You may want to pull the plugs and look for a cracked one.. you could also use a spray bottle and squirt the wires.. do it at night, you may see or hear some arcing.

    Be sure you don’t have wires for 7 and 8 running next to each other.. try to separate them as best possible to prevent cross firing.

  • Before changing anything carburetor related, I would check the ignition system. Three owners of Ford performance cars suddenly had faltering engines and all three found problems with ignition points and condensers; two of them had points gaps too small and one had screws holding points not much more than finger tight.

    Otherwise problems with excessive wear in distributor bushings (plain bearings for the shaft), excessive gap between rotor tip and cap electrodes in some brands of caps and rotors, incorrect timing advance curve, cracked distributor caps, spark plug wire issues, and problem(s) the might prevent ignition timing advance have resulted in carburetors that were working well to be rebuilt needlessly or replaced.

    One situation that can happen with manual chokes is installing the cable without some slack after the plate is closed. If the cable is just barely getting the choke plate closed engine vibration, road shocks, or engine movement during acceleration can partially close the choke. If the engine is running great and suddenly falters during acceleration, push on the choke knob to verify that the choke has not partially closed.

    Dan

  • All good points, but I found the problem I was looking at the plug wires and they were all separated on the valve cover holders but as they went up to the distributor a few were crossing over each other so I thought I would pull a few plug wire 90 degree boots off the dist. cap and re-route them and I could see the end of the plug wire was pushed back in the boot so it wasn't going down into the socket of the cap, 4 out of the 8 were that way plus the coil wire going into the cap was the same, on top of that the clip on the back side of the distributor that holds the cap on wasn't attached. After I got all of that fixed it ran much smoother and the idle jumped up 200 rpms so I was able to set it back down at 750 rpm. Alot of stupid mistakes that I should have caught but it's all good know. Thanks to 289kford for sending me in the right direction.

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