Rear frame rails

  • The last 12"-18" or so of my rear frame rails was destroyed due to rust.

    My intention was to only replace the 12"-18",leaving as much of the original frame rail .But I am starting to second guess myself


    What is the general wisdom on this ?


    Replace only what is needed and have a seem ?

    Or replace the whole frame rail or enough of it so the seem is hidden ?


    Also is dynacorn the place to go for rails ?


    Thanks in advance for your help on this.


    mike

  • I have used the 28" replacement frame rail that you can purchase from just about any parts supplier (mustangs unlimited, NPD)(Less than $30.00) The end of the frame rail is tapered and fits into the existing frame rail and leaves a small indention, perfect for a weld. Cut the existing frame rail to length of the replacement, and the alignment is fairly easy. When you weld the 2 together the weld lays nicely in the indention/tapered part of the replacement. You can then grind the weld smooth and if done with enough detail, can go unnoticed. I replaced one on a fastback a few years ago and you couldn't even tell where the old ended and where the new started. (after painting and what not) This also creates a stronger rail because part of the new rail is down inside the old. Welding butt to butt, the rail is not as strong and when torque is applied from driving, could cause failure. I hope this info is helpful, and I will try to locate a few pics if i have them.

  • One thing to note! after you cut out your originals framerails don't forget to transfer the GT exhaust hanger reinforcement plates to the new frame rail, or make new ones if you have a GT, or the plates in the side of the frame rails for mounting the dual exhaust hangers on a standard k code car.

    Reproduce the holes EXACTLY.

    Scott

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