Posts by SaltLakeDj

  • K rebody??

    Post the VIN, I posted mine. My car was a once over raced totally trashed daily driver and not a concourse restoration. I had by my self, over the years, replaced the sheet metal replaced except the drivers door, unibody floor shell with engine bay, roof, hood, and trunk lid. Was it already a re-body? If mine is ever re-re-bodied, it is no longer fraud. However it is no longer a factory Kcode. Never-Never-Never. It will forever be a plain jane rebodied worthless mustang. and everybody knows it now. I still have a K engine, K motor mounts and exhaust manifolds, 64 rare K distibutor, 9 inch rear end, a Carter X fuel pump. Just those parts alone are worth more than most plain jane mustangs. Mine will be "KIT CAR - 5R07K102379" or a framed title with a VIN hanging on the wall.


    POST THE VIN AND LIST IT AS DESTROYED !!!!!!!!!!! Scott

  • 5R07K102379 lost to fire

    I want to let you know that the title and VIN's are going into my safety deposit box not to come out in my lifetime. I just wanted to restart the discussion on re-bodies because of the Dyancorn situation. Insurance doesn't pay sqwat on a cost of replacement policy. You can't determine value of the car anymore. and even K coupe cars are worth less and less every day. I don't feel it is right to re-body a car but in 50 years my grandchildren may think differently. The VIN is posted here to stop fraud. You may think differently in 50 years. Who knows internal combustion cars may be banned next year. And you may all lose your car like I lost mine. At least they will be if the Democrats and save the Earthers are re-elected. In Utah they don't check one VIN and title the car so theoretically fill in all the Dynacorn Vin's weld in the old vins and Good to go. Last post, hope the hobby lasts, Scott

  • 5R07K102379 lost to fire

    Nobody was hurt in the fire. 5R07K102379 caught fire behind the dash while I was driving it. Damned old wiring. I retained the vin's "removed" from the car. and bought back the title. I don't however believe anything should or will come of them. I don't think that Dynacorn will ever make 64.5 factory K coupe, concourse and Hipo Mustang eKschange approved, bodies. It would not be ethical to re-body anyway, so I'm keeping them so nobody else can re-body. I'm to old to spend another 15 years building a car anyway. Hope others feel the same way I do when I die.


    It's been great being in the forum, and lot of interesting things are shared here. Not having a K car anymore, I no longer belong.


    So signing off for the last time. Keep'um original except for the wiring. Replace. Scott

  • 5R07K102379 lost to fire

    I am sad to say that 5R07K102379 was destroyed in a fire May 5th 2011. It is a total loss. I am documenting this because I will use some of the parts in another car. I want it known so there will not be any fraud if any of this car is salvaged. It is scheduled today to be crushed.

    Scott

  • Kelsey Hayes Disc Brake Detailing

    It seems to me that Mustang Monthly had and article that showed the correct detailing. What I remember was there were white paint daubs on the piston boots and the outside half of the Calipers were painted with stainless steel paint but the inside were left natural. The heat shields were natural and the bolts that held the caliper mounts were yellow cadnium. the rotors had K/H stamped into them. the disk pad cover plates had FoMoCo inside a rectangle stamped into them. Try to find the article in the Mustangs Monthly archives. I hope this helps you.

    Scott

  • WTB/trade for Hipo cam timing gear

    Hi, I have one, part number S350 ( cast with built in spacer) that was made by republic gears in Canada in the 80's

    but I just had hernia surgery and am in no shape to go out for a while. I looked in the new catalog for Mustangs Unlimited it's under S406T as a part number, if you can wait for a while I have your part and will sell it

    Scott

  • 65 Fuel Canister Mask

    Bo, I bought the reproduction decal for one of these canisters, then I scanned it and made a file to print it out on a ink jet printer. then I went to a hobby store and bought the clear testers water slide decal paper, printed it out sprayed the decal with clearcoat "lightly" then cut it out, put it in water and transfered it to the cannister. When it dried I semi gloss clearcoated the canister and cannot tell the difference between one that was originally painted on.

    You might try this.

    Scott

  • Rear frame rails

    One thing to note! after you cut out your originals framerails don't forget to transfer the GT exhaust hanger reinforcement plates to the new frame rail, or make new ones if you have a GT, or the plates in the side of the frame rails for mounting the dual exhaust hangers on a standard k code car.

    Reproduce the holes EXACTLY.

    Scott

  • heater hose strap - measurements

    Those straps that are selling on ebay. measure 12 inches by 3/4" at ends gradually reducing to 5/8" at center of the strip. It has 3 cords running through it, and has light grooves running lenghtwise. It also is curved like a hose ( heater or radiator) with the inside surface having rust. It has seen contact with coolant.

    The screw is not a ford screw it is 5mm metric and has .ab on the head. It may be a replacement but I don't think so. the strap looks good so I will use it after using the factory screw I still have. I payed $35 with shipping on ebay.

    Scott

  • 4 digit number on hipo heads. What do they mean?

    I have been in contact with someone with 4G9 date code hipo heads. they have been ported on their exhaust ports for what looks like Tri Y headers. they have the stamp 3214 below the freeze plugs.

    My question is, how did Valley Head Service mark their heads. Did they just stamp a number on them. I have a picture of this stamping but I can't post it to the site. Could these be gt350 heads.

    Scott