Any recommendations for a good shop that regrind a hipo cam and lifters?
Looking for place members here have actually used and got good results with preferably.
Thanks in advance
Rich
Any recommendations for a good shop that regrind a hipo cam and lifters?
Looking for place members here have actually used and got good results with preferably.
Thanks in advance
Rich
Seller reports engine has been sold.
Sent you a message
It isn't the dates you want, but I have a 7-64 listed here...
Thanks,
Rich
More proof from the Ford MPC showing the early hipo cam gear was 13/32”, not the chain. This would be true for late parts (post L7) as well, as the hipo gear and chain width never changed.
Wanting to confirm with the community the actual width of the hipo timing chain. Tony Gregory’s book, incorrectly I believe, states it is 13/32” (0.406”) wide and the regular chain is 1/2” (0.500) wide, meaning OUTSIDE width.
When I measure my NOS Ford hipo timing chain (C3OZ-6268-A) still in the box, it is .630” at the widest point, which is at the pins.
When I measure an original regular early 289 chain, it is 0.720” wide at the pins.
Can someone confirm these measurements are correct, and also there is no such thing as a 13/32” wide hipo chain? That number is actually the hipo gear tooth width, and thus the INNER measurement on the chain.
Thanks
Rich
Sent you a message with instructions.
Thanks,
Rich
Sent you a message. Thanks
Looking for the motor and trans for 5F07K399138.
May be in the Florida area.
Thanks,
Rich
I have a few of these I’m selling.
$105 shipped to lower 48.
NORS 63-67 Hipo 289 timing crank gear sprocket
New Old Replacement Stock in the box.
Made in USA
Out of Production hipo timing crank gear for use with the hipo hachet counterweight.
New in the box gears, made by Republic Parts of Michigan in the 70s.
Steel, 21 teeth, 0.7” thick. Thinner than a regular 289 crank gear.
Comes with a new roll pin.
Picture is representative of the part but may not be your actual one. Item coloration and stamped numbers vary slightly. Some have bits of cosmoline still on them.
If you have questions please ask
Looking for opinions. I have a 65 hipo block that has some external rust and has been painted brown of all things. It also has the original reddish paint marks on the back where the bellhousing mounts. Was going to have it baked and blasted by the local machine shop, but wondered what to do with the original reddish paint marks on the back of the block?
Would you:
- blast it all clean and call it a day?
- blast it and recreate the reddish paint marks? Think it was sprayed
- protect the paint makes by bolting on the spacer plate or something?
Thanks
Rich
Stillwellsobsolete back at it again.
- Big Block arm
- no 2nd spring
- made in Canada body
Looks to be a different body than the “Carter” above
Hey, as long as you can make money it’s ok right?
Sad to see
Rich
With the fixed pivot top and your foot on bottom, I'm thinking the lower the hole is, the harder to press and longer the travel.
Imagining a really long 8 foot pedal with the master cylinder rod connected at the very bottom by your foot would be the hardest to push, attached next to the top pivot would make the longest lever and therefore easiest to push. ?
Who did the restoration?
I have often thought a board to point out misrepresentations would be good, even repeat offender sellers. The second part opens up a whole can of worms tho, but the first part would be good resource at least.
Thanks Fred
Rich
Saw this pump from Stillwellsobsolete advertised as a remanufactured Hipo 289 fuel pump.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/404440109692
#1 - Isn’t that a big block arm and won’t work on a 289?
#2 - looks like a 7S for the remaining part number, so not a hipo number of 3939S or 4201S. Assuming it could be a 4567S body reused during rebuild with other parts?
#3 - also, hard to tell from the pictures, but looks like a 3/8” inlet. Hipos we’re 5/16” correct?
Thanks
Rich
Compare the pics above to an actual NOS breaker plate in unopened pacakge. Looks more like something that has been sitting on a shelf forever, and surface is smooth and has what looks like a bit of storage grease on it.
Breaker plate pics from the sellers ad. You can see the clean, media blasted look of the surface.