Posts by 6T09KGT

    Buyer beware, Mustang Masters and Fast Freddy have a reputation so always do your homework.

    A 292-5 dated valve would not have the internals this one does. The hex bolt on the front was from an earlier version typically found on T-birds.

    From their word salad posting, "This nice clean original piece is not modified & has damage free threads. As the pictures show there is very little patina as a matter of fact there's actually enough to make it look original to your car. The internals have been recently replaced and while the term rebuilt might apply to it's condition, we offer no warranty or guarantee as we do not want that responsibility."

    From the limited internal view, I suspect this would need a sleeve to address pitting/leaking. The missing band to cover the weep hole must be unmodified patina.

    Thanks for posting pictures. Just to clarify, I believe it's image 10 where you're referring to a Brinnel test? The rear counterweight had a section that was polished and inspected under a microscope to count nodules in specific area. I got that from a discussion with Bob Mannell about 20 years ago. There a few posts from Bob on this site about it too, here is one: 289 REAR MAIN CAP CASTING NUMBERS

    "My sources tell me that 289 HiPo cranks were 100% inspected, meaning each one had to be polished on the rear counterweight for inspection under a microscope. I was told that the inspectors were given pictures of what the grain pattern density should look like under the microscope. If what they saw looked close to the picture, it was good. If it looked like another picture, it did not pass."

    A Brinnel hardness test makes a depression in the casting with a ball bearing and there is usually no evidence of that on the crank. (If you look closely at a spindle, you will see a Brinnel mark on the back)

    Anyhow, for posterity and future reference, it would be helpful if you could add a few more images of the polished counter weight on your crank.

    Font on the door tag is red flag, doesn't match anything I've seen before. As far as GT, the package wasn't available until April 65. The date on the door tag is 03K...October 3 1964, math doesn't add up. If the seller claims that because AC and PS are "on it" makes it original, ask if the vice grips (also on it) on the heater bypass hose are OEM too :)

    I tried zooming in and adjusting the VIN image on an iPad tonight and now leaning more toward it being a K and not an A. You can get a peak at the tip of a fan blade in a couple pictures and the profile doesn't look correct.

    It's located in Andover MA. I might be up there in early December and if possible will try to inspect it for a friend in the market.

    If it's a Metuchen car you may get lucky and find a build sheet still taped to the wiring harness behind the speedo. It would have also come with a buck tag screwed to the passenger fender apron near the shock tower but maybe it's gone now? Factory paint and overspray will be on nearly everything in the trunk, under the carpets and behind rear panels and kick panels. If the car was dipped, it would all be gone. If it was media blasted, keep looking.

    I think the concours site requires you to create an account to login and then you will see everything

    Norcal607 and GREXIT, the 4th edition of the HiPo registry has almost 1,500 registered cars, mine included. I forget how or when I registered it but guessing it was back around 2003 on the original HiPo Mustang site. There was definitely nothing required to verify what I registered even though I easily could have provided supporting evidence and still can today.

    What is the purpose of a registry? I think it used to be to try and recreate some type of record of what Ford destroyed. Outside of that, I haven't seen any benefit.

    Unfortunately, the harsh reality is that there is a financial benefit to passing one off as authentic when it isn't. I have seen several cars sold over the years with the claim "it's in the HiPo registry". Most are probably legitimate but a friend of mine who collects GM muscle cars was considering buying one last year based on that claim plus he said it had 1.12 cast into the carb, a HiPo decal on a chrome air cleaner, dual exhaust a K VIN visible on the driver apron and door tag and few other things a novice would think made it a real K. It did have real HiPo heads but that was it. Turns out the car was a converted C code and being a long time GM guy, he had no idea what to really look for.

    Back to the registry, what would the purpose be? If it's to create an inventory of all the K's that were built, we will never get there. If it's be a source for authentication when buying/selling like the Shelby registry where a select few actually know the Ford VIN for each car, that would be a gargantuan (impossible) task to first validate every car and then who is legally responsible if something slips through the cracks? My opinion is that for the buy/sell scenario, people on this site could be a good source for extra eyes and opinions or in some cases personal inspections.

    Yes, all non-GT cars had rocker molding. Pretty sure all cars had FORD on the hood except Shelby. The trim on the lip on the hood I believe was standard. 2+2 emblems I believe were fastback only, but not on GT's. Rear bumperettes were not on GT's. As mentioned earlier, the Concours Mustang sight has all the answers for details your looking for

    concoursmustang.com (sp?) has a lot of info. They have a library section that has detailing info. The forum has a wealth of info in topics. The exhaust hangers and rear rail reinforce were for dual exhaust cars -> Check for K pinion snubber on body-for 9" axle.

    Dual exhaust cars, A (GT) and K (all) both had the same pinion snubber and exhaust hangers

    See this thread, Tony sold the rights to Marv Shaner RE: Please enlighten me on the K-code registry

    I've been saying this for over 25 years that there needs to be some type of verification with any registry. I've lost count of how many air cars, rebodies and fraudulent VIN stamps on fender aprons and blocks I've seen. Even Bring a Trailer has more scrutiny than Tony's book or any other registry. Verification could be anything between here's a VIN and here's a VIN with pictures, an original dealer order form, invoice, build sheet, buck tag (if Metuchen). Pictures like what are found on BAT only help build the case and then there are plenty of people I would trust to verify a vehicle in person but the logistics would limit how many could be verified that way.