Posts by cs67gt

$157K for a '67 is a strong price ... I wonder what the going rate is for a 67 K-code F/B? Mine is fully restored and looks and runs great ... Wimbledon White 4 speed, factory AM/FM ... Hard to find an accurate price guide given how few of these there still are out there.

Please merge my old account.

Thank you!

Thanks for the insight; hopefully, the repop S/S wheels won't need any reworking!

Chris

Nearing the end of a long restoration process on my '67K GT F/B and would like some opinions on tire size. I know this has been the subject of a lot of posts - I've tried to read them all, but didn't find an answer to my question, so here goes:

I want to use the style steel wheels and narrower (or pin?) whitewalls, since that appears to be what was used in 1967, at least based on the factory promotional photos, no? I am considering either 14 x 6 with 205/70/14 or 14 x 7 and 215/70/14 as I'm not sure a 215/70 would fit that well on a 14" rim. I considered going with the Coker correct style bias ply tires for the sake of originality, but I do plan to drive my car, so radial tires are a necessity.

I would like to hear whether based on experience and aesthetics one is preferable to the other, and also which of the narrower whitewall tires, if any you have been happy with. I'm also not sure of the correct width of the whitewall for 1967; I see the BF Goodrich Silvertowns in a 3/8", but at $200+ a tire, that seems a bit excessive. I considered going with RWL or Redlines, but my car is Wimbledon white and IMHO looks good with the thinner WW tires.

Thanks!

Chris

Very nice indeed! My '67 FB is in the process of being painted -- hope it looks as nice when its done.

Also good to see more of the few remaining 67s out there!

I'm definitely hanging onto everything; the original Toploader, bell housing, shifter, and anything else swapped out will be carefully stored at home. Looking forward to having my "K" back on the road this year.

Cheers!

Thanks for the information -- I was leaning towards the 2.95 and now will go in that direction. I always appreciate the help/insight of the folks on this site!

Chris

I'd like to hear your experience with the WC-T5's. This is the one and only modification I'm considering making during the restoration of my '67 F/B, and will keep the original 4 speed, bellhousing and any attendant parts boxed up for later reinstallation, if needed.

I have 3.50 rear gears and turn 3,000 RPMs at 70 mph, which in CA frequently relegates you to the slow lane! (At least where I live...)

I'm wondering about the 2.95 versus 3.35 first gear. It would seem to me the 2.95 would be preferable; I believe this is the newer version (T5-Z?) and I will be 100% street-driven. But, I would like to hear your opinion.

If this has already been discussed in another thread, please direct me, and my apologies for not finding it myself!

Thanks - Chris

For what it's worth, I am rebuilding my "K" motor and was struggling with going with the "old" versus "new" comp cams 271HP cam. After speaking to two Comp Cams techs about the differences between the two cams -- they both told me there really was no noticeable difference -- I went with the "old" version, just to keep it close to original.

I'm not an engineer by any stretch or anything beyond a "shade-tree" mechanic (I came up when you had to know how to fix your own car), but the cards/specs for both cams looked really close, so their (Comp Cams) conclusion made sense to me.

Again, just my 2 cents. If anyone has a strong opinion one way or the other, I'd be glad to hear it. I do want to go with roller tip rockers though...

I'm west of Sacramento; I have the $20 Kragen/Checker/O'Reilly digital caliper, but wouldn't want to make a mistake and measure it incorrectly.

From what I can tell, the date code is 5B24, but make look like a 5G?

I will try to get the exact information out there shortly.

Chris

Funny how prices have gone astronomically HIGHER despite the recession. When I purchased a similar dated HiPo block, with the main caps, counter weight, and crank 10 years ago, I paid the grand sum of $350...

I bought it because I needed the main caps, and still have the un-VIN stamped bare block (other parts are since gone). But, it may be .030 over.

Any idea as to the value of a C5AE-6015-E bare block? Just curious more than anything esle.

If someone really needs it, I suppose I could take it to a machine shop to see if it was standard bore, or .030 over etc...

My '67K has the 8K tach...

Just curious -- absent a VIN or accompanying "k" parts, i.e., crank, main caps, etc. how do we discern a block as being a HIPO block, or can we?

I ask because 15 years ago, I purchased what was represented as a HIPO block; came with crank, correct main caps (which I needed, thus the purchase), counterweight, timing gear, etc., but no VIN. It's a C5AE-6015E block, dated-coded for 1965. But, without a VIN, how do I know it's a HIPO?

For this reason, I've never considered selling the block as a HIPO block; but I suppose it might be, or might not? I would never want to misrepresent something, so it sits in the garage...

Hi Fred,

I sent you an email.

Thanks,

Chris

ADDENDUM: From the Pony Carburetors website, it appears that I have an early Galaxie carburetor (the type they would use for a "clone") with perhaps all of the original linkage/choke pieces from the original carburetor?

Pretty darn sure I have the wrong carburetor on my '67K. I am in the early stages of restoring my "kar" and pulled the motor a few weeks ago. Obviously, the carburetor came off first. Over the years, I've visually compared the carburetor to all available pictures in Tony Gregory's books, and it has (up until today) appeared correct.

However, after pulling the carburetor, I was able to see the casting/part # and date: C5SF-B and date 9-20-64, which from what I can glean from the internet is not correct for my "K", but instead for an early 390 motor.

This carburetor has a 1.12 stamp on it, and as per the book photos, lacks the hot idle compensator. Bores also measure out correctly @ 1 9/16" All correct manual choke pieces are there, and the motor always seemed to run well with this carburetor.

Any information would be appreciated - thanks!

My advice: Go with Fred [c6zzkgt] -- I needed a Boss 302 rod and he sent me one ASAP, at a very fair price to complete my set.

My rebuild is back on track! Thanks.

After many years of waiting, my motor has finally made the journey to the machine shop for a full and complete rebuild. I'm using a set of Boss 302 rods, as these were service replacements for the 289HP. But, the set I purchased several years ago has only 7 good rods; the 8th is slightly twisted. It could be straightened, but I'd rather not.

I've already purchased one additional rod, which also will not work; it was been drilled for a floating pin. So now I'm looking for another one that is still a press fit --

I know I can buy one from Perogie for $100, but once I look at the cost of machining, ARP rods bolts, etc. I'm wondering if a set of aftermarket rods (e.g. Eagle) would be a wiser investment?

I'd like to get a few opinions on the use of aftermarket rods versus using the Boss 302 rods. I know both option are not "original" but since the Boss 302 rods were service parts, that might be a little truer to form.

Or, does someone has one extra Boss 302 rod they want to sell?

67 GT/FB Wimbledon White, Black Std. Interior, 4 spd.

Factory AM/FM - I guess that's a bit rare, no?

My 67K also has the standard interior with the deluxe wheel as an option; it's how the kar came 10 yrs. ago, and "Marti" says it was ordered that way...