A 3 or 4 foot long prybar (crowbar, 1" pipe, 2X4 etc).
Jim
A 3 or 4 foot long prybar (crowbar, 1" pipe, 2X4 etc).
Jim
I got a set off e-bay, and I've heard that an aluminum beer can be used with a 1/4 inch punch to make the discs.
Jim
That Ford p/n, C3OZ-8600-D, comes back as a five blade, 17 1/4 inch, 2 3/8 ID center hole, used on a 65 Fairlane 200CID 6 cylinder with delux hang on A/C, and a 64 1/2 Mustang 260CID and 289CID (generator engines) with factory hang on A/C. I don't see any other uses in the May, 75 Ford Car Parts book (no Mercury uses listed).
Jim
Quote from C6ZZKGTJim, The "fit" problem is ongoing as I have posted regarding this a few weeks ago. I spent quite a bit of time modifying the left side on a current repro to be able to remove and install the spark plugs. This went far beyond simply loosening the manifold and raising it up before retightening it as you can get away with on an original. It was necessary to do a lot of grinding as there is too much casting material in the path of the spark plug socket.
-Fred-
Fred,
I was commenting on the fit of the repro manifold. The second part was my own situation on my factory manifolds which I addressed in the post you referenced in your next post. I don't know what the problem on the repro manifolds was, but from what you had to do, it appears to be in the same area, only worse.
Jim
I have heard that the early repros had a "fit" problem that was eventually corrected. A "fit" problem is what I found that I had on my date coded originals. Number 4 spark plug had a "fit" problem and needed to be installed with the manifold loose and with a socket on the plug. There's a thread with all the associated gory tales on this website. Just for sanity's sake, place your manifold on a known flat surface with the four exhaust flanges down and do a careful eyeball before you do anything.
Jim
That's the inventory number. It should not be marked on the manifold. The marking (casting number) is C4ZE-9430-A.
Jim
After I got my rebuilts running to my satisfaction, I changed the oil at about 300-500 miles. That includes VWs built for Baha, Fords built for the strip and daily drivers for me and friends. If you got problems at first, all bets are off.
Jim
Quote from Richard P.The wheels for a drum brake car will not fit a disc brake car. The calipers will hit the wheels and lock the wheels up. The inside off set is different. The wheels for a disc brake car will fit a drum brake car. (Been there done that)
That's funny, my 65 GT Fastback with standard wheels and wire wheel covers (I have the factory invoice) fit with no problem.
If what you clain is true, then there would be two different standard wheels for 65 and 66, GT and non-GT, but I can't seem to find any part numbers that show that difference.
Jim
I snapped a bolt while building up some store bought shelves. So what is the torque on a 5/16-18 bolt? It's a lot less than head bolts. Check out this link. This is the type of information that need to be in a FAQ section (hint).
http://www.engineershandbook.com/
Jim
Start with water from a garden hose to get rid of the big chunks. Then try some paint thinner with a parts cleaner brush if you don't have a parts cleaning tank or know of someone who does. I've used a paint remover called Krud Kleaner available from the paint dept. at Home Depot. Don't use Eazy-Off Oven Cleaner (for an extended period of time) or bead blast as the soft aluminum gets eaten away. An exception is using a bead blaster on the inside water passages to get the scale removed.
Jim
I think the missing 66 coil spring entry is a typo error, the 65 should read 66 as the spring listed before it is for years 64.5-65. If you can make a mistake and do it wrong, I can make a mistake and do it right.
Jim
I wonder if this is legit?
http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/de…ng/1195246.html
A 64 1/2 convertible pre-production car, VIN (c5xyz)00093.
Jim
The car.
Jim
Depending on the year (64 1/2-67), the VIN will be hand stamped into the block on the right front side above the oil pan and below and to the rear a bit at the point where the ground cable is attached. That's the easiest and most conclusive verification of the engine's originality.
Jim
Accept my apologies. The dust shields were also bead-blasted and dipped on my three GT's.
Jim
I guess I'll have to throw away the pair of 65-66 dust shields I got from NPD (p/n 2B127-1A, $24.95, 2011 cat pg 69). They're in stainless but with a quick session in the bead blaster to roughen up the surface for paint, they should work. Oh, they been on the car for years. Damn. And (he said between sips of CRW), NPD has some NOS dust shields for $50.00.
Jim
A few months back a member of the forum made an inquiry via personal e-mail about getting some original Ford head bolts for a 289 block. Sorry, I forgot who, but if they contact me, we can finish the "conversation".
Jim
The "book" says 11/1/65 as the transition date. I have an "A" code and a "K" code (both San Jose) with scheduled dates of 15 Oct and 18 Oct and both with the 65 types of mounts.
Jim
By the stamping on the left front mounting ear, "6 S C", the carb is for a 1966 Thunderbird, 390CID or 428CID, with a C6 and Cal smog.
Jim