Posts by 65HiPo

65HiPo · Rear View Mirror Location 65HiPo February 5, 2008 at 10:06 PM

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Hi guys, this is me, Fred, who you sent the parts to in NZ.

My car is 65, left hand drive. The mirror is non-remote, standard 65 model. The rear mounting screw on the base of the mirror is in line with the back edge if the quarter window frame.

Yeah, I can see how it interferes with the window. The screws on mine straddle the rear frame and it's pretty tight when the vent is open.

65HiPo · Brakes 65HiPo February 5, 2008 at 9:53 PM

I've got one of these:

http://www.cobraautomotive.com/new%20products.htm

I couldn't be happier with the outcome. I opted for a Willwood proportioning valve after I had my stock one sleaved by a crappy rebuilder and it leaked. I had to rotate the end of the rear line 90 degrees to mate up with the valve.

Gerald

65HiPo · Rear View Mirror Location 65HiPo February 5, 2008 at 12:30 PM

The quarter windows on mine open almost all the way, but they rub the mirrors. The mirrors on my K were installed at the dealership on the outside part of the curved top area of the door. On most cars I've seen, the mirrors are installed in the curve closer to the window.

65HiPo · upper control arm repair 65HiPo January 27, 2008 at 7:00 PM

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Ford says to torque the bushings to specs, then seems to forget to mention what that is. The Fairlane/Meteor uses the same bushing and Mercury gave the spec this way:

"Bushing—Front Suspension Upper Arm to Front Suspension Upper Arm Shaft......160-190 (or as required to seat the bushings)"

Now you know why they are so hard to get off. Soaking with WD-40 for 4-days and using an impact wrench should work, or if you are like me, I braced it under the lip around the foundation of my house and used a breakway bar with a long section of pipe. Either it was coming loose or my house was going to be lifted off its foundation! It came loose.

I have attached a PDF that will help. Just ignore the Fairlane-specific stuff. Also, I use a proper spring compressor tool now. The J-hook tools scared me to death!

http://www.fordsmallblock.com/PDF/Upper-Control-Arm-Bushings.pdf

WoW! I had no idea the torque spec was so incredibly high. I've kept an eye on the 90 degree grease zerks to see if they have rotated, but now I'm thinking I may need to pull them off again and retorque them. Thanks Bob for sharing your knowledge.

Gerald

65HiPo · front and rear springs and shocks 65HiPo January 24, 2008 at 9:24 PM

I got a set of rear leafs from Ford back in 2000 and lowered the front with a set of 600# coil springs from NPD for the front.

Eaton is where I'd go if I was looking for stock application. Here's the link to their website:

http://www.eatonsprings.com/

Gerald

65HiPo · upper control arm repair 65HiPo January 24, 2008 at 9:19 PM

Take a look at my website for some pics of my restoration in 2000.

http://www.geocities.com/raley65/misc.html

A couple of notes:

When you remove the shock tower nuts, don't chase the threads or you will ruin the locking mechanism and have to buy new bolts from AMK like I did.

When you remove the A-arms, keep the shims that you remove in order and replace them in exactly the same locations when you re-install.

Be aware that if you replace the shafts, when you re-install the big nuts they will strip out the fine threads of the A-arms. Don't be alarmed, this was a design flaw as the shafts are threaded with a much larger thread count and the factory stripped them out when assembled. Take your time centering the shaft, it's easy to get it off a half thread or so. The shop manual describes inserting a steel plate between the sides of the arms, next to the shaft when you torque the nuts (I used a piece of wood - cut to fit). I couldn't find a torque spec for the nuts, but after much reseach I settled on 35-40 ft/lbs. Some people spot weld the nuts to ensure they don't back out. Install a set of 90 degree grease zerks so you can grease them in the futre without having to burn holes in your shock towers with an acetylene torch.

If your arms still have the original ball joints, you will have to chisel off the factory rivets. Bolt the new ball joints in place with grade 8 bolts and locknuts - torque to spec.

I just replaced my spring perches. Just make sure you install them correctly.

I painted mine semi-gloss black and used Eastwood's Detail Grey on the ends to duplicate the factory dipping process.

Good Luck and have fun.

Gerald

65HiPo · K- Kode Values 65HiPo January 22, 2008 at 11:05 AM

I've got my K-code insured with Hagerty. It's probably not worth it, but they didn't hesitate to insure it for 60K.

65HiPo · timing gear 65HiPo January 16, 2008 at 3:29 PM

There are several different versions that were used on the K powerplant. Do a search for "Cloyes" They were an OEM supplier and still make the timing sets for the hi-po engines. Here is one of the threads that will help you on your quest.

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…rchTerms=cloyes

65HiPo · Hi-Po Not Running Right 65HiPo December 17, 2007 at 3:44 PM

I've been having a problem with my hi-po the last two times I've driven it. I'll try to explain.

When I mash the pedal to the floor, and don't let it go over 4,000 rpm, it runs great. The secondaries kick in, tires squall, neck muscles strain to keep my head upright and general fun ensues. However, if I hold it down until it gets to 4500 or 5000 rpm the entire engine starts cutting out. I mean, it bucks, the tach bounces to 3000 and it even popped (maybe a backfire) once yesterday when I did it. At first I thought it was an ignition problem, but when I keep my foot out of it and don't engage the secondaries as I accelerate up to 5,000 rpm it seems to run o.k. I installed a new coil, thinking that was the problem, but it didn't help.

I posed this question to my buddy Charlie(65Rangoon) and he gave me lots of good troubleshooting answers. I just thought I'd see if anyone else has experienced the same thing or might shed some light on what's wrong.

Thank,

Gerald

65HiPo

My brother turned me onto this issue last year. He's got a '72 Porche 911 and those guys have the same concern - probably more so. After talking with him, I changed to Brad Penn racing oil 10W30. It comes from same refinery that made Kendall oil back in the day. It's API service category is SJ which was superceded years ago by the newer oils that have minimal ZDDP. Call them to find your local distributor.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/

65HiPo · tires 65HiPo October 18, 2007 at 1:24 PM

Goodyear Eagles....205-60/15's in front and 225-60/15's in the rear. I'm running American Racing TT D's with the standard 3.75" backspacing. It's a tight fit in front, but they've never rubbed, and I didn't roll the fenders.

65HiPo · mustang for men 65HiPo October 12, 2007 at 1:54 PM

You got my vote Phil. Good Luck!

65HiPo · 289 HiPo Air Cleaner Decal? 65HiPo September 19, 2007 at 2:07 PM

This is the original decal from my air cleaner. Notice the words "High Performance" go almost to the edge of the checkered flag and it doesn't appear to have the part number. It was more of a paper type than the mylar reproductions. I hated to remove it, but I had to get the lid re-plated a few years ago.

Gerald

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65HiPo · Rear brakes 65 K Code 65HiPo August 16, 2007 at 9:32 AM

As far as I know the shoes are 10"x 1 3/4". NPD has the parts you need. Here's a link:

http://www.npdlink.com/modules.php?na…x&func=download

65HiPo · early style brake & clutch pedal pads! 65HiPo July 31, 2007 at 4:46 AM

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Finally, they are available:

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/catalog/shop/i…p?itemid=BK1701

Lyle

Too bad they don't make one for disc brakes.<img src=images/icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

65HiPo · 60 mph shimmy 65HiPo May 23, 2007 at 2:56 PM

I replaced the u-joints on my car in 2000. I didn't realize it at the time, but the cups going to the 9" rear pinion are 1/16" larger in diameter and requires a different u-joint than what is on the front yoke. Until I discovered this error, my car would vibrate above 60 mph. I changed it out with the correct u-joint and all vibrations went away.

65HiPo · CLUTCH 65HiPo May 18, 2007 at 7:36 AM

I bought a hi-po clutch from the local Ford dealership in Austin a few years ago. They had them in stock.

65HiPo · clutch rod firewall seal 65HiPo April 23, 2007 at 7:31 AM

My car (built in Oct. '64) had a 1/2" thick felt pad with a hole in it that the rod went through. It was attached from the inside of the firewall by a small sheetmetal bracket.

65HiPo · Current API Certified Motor Oil Concerns 65HiPo April 16, 2007 at 8:56 AM

Here is an interesting article Hot Rod Magazine wrote about the lack of ZDDP in the current API motor oil certification. After reading this, I'm now trying to figure out what oil to use in my freshly reguilt engine. It is apparent to me that I'm going to have to get away from the regular shelf items - perhaps a motorcycle specific oil - I don't know. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e…tech/index.html

Here is another good article that lists actual test nos. for various oils. It's written for Porche owners, but the info is relevant for our high compression, solid lifter engines as well.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Gerald

Edited by - 65HiPo on 04/16/2007 13:08:21

65HiPo · Engine bay paint questions 65HiPo April 4, 2007 at 12:39 PM

I painted my engine bay with the Eastwood Underhood Black. It looks good, but is much glossier than the original. It also took months to cure. If I could go back in time and do it again, I'd go with something else.

Gerald