is the progressive mechanical secondary kit the only way to upgrade? was/is there a spring change to bring them in earlier but still stay vacuum? since I changed the rear gears, the RPM's climb slower, thus it seems like it takes longer for them to open. I think the mechanical kit would be better, but just checking options. any testimonials would be welcome. Bill
Posts by 289kford
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here is a link to the newspaper story, and one recently.
http://www.vindy.com/news/2008/may/…ev-up-for-film/
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Is this what you are looking for? This happened in my 'backyard'. I didnt know about it other than the original article in the paper. found this by accident.
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I have Motorcraft BSF42C plugs with a Pertonix, stock style wires, and a high voltage coil, (non Pertronix, no problems. They do not make a BF42 now.
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Quote from dunc289
many of us with cars not following the letter of the orginal design are searching for the right sound, and the Arvinode sounds very like what I and others might want, should it be do-able..... anyone else?


You should check out Powerstick mufflers, made by Classic Chambered exhaust. http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/sounds.html
there are some clips on Youtube also. here is a Falcon
fast forward to about 5:50External Content www.youtube.comContent embedded from external sources will not be displayed without your consent.Through the activation of external content, you agree that personal data may be transferred to third party platforms. We have provided more information on this in our privacy policy.It is tough know for sure but you get an idea via video.
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I am running Motorcraft BF42's (BSF42C) 2 years now. Same set, no problems with fouling.
I sold 2 (unused) sets of Autolite BF32's in the 40 dollar each range.
I have some more sets that were in the car for a summer, which is a few hundred miles, if you want the original plugs.
Though Motorcraft does not make BF32, they still do have a BF22, but I thought the 32's were too cold for street driving.
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A week or so ago, I had the chance to hear a system in person.
One word describes... "ooooooohh"
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the bottom number is an engineering number, a 63101 is a seat frame, at least on a 80 something car. it looks like it would be 67 part number.
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Could be wrong, but I thought the cable came with the '65' change over.
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Just got an e-mail from Liberty Classic. I ask about them making a HIPO every 6 months or so, it may have paid off.
"We will be releasing a Shelby Cobra 427 in February 2010, and possible a Shelby 289 later in 2010.
Thank you.
Paul
Liberty Classics"
No word on a BOSS 302
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Was on E-bay at 7K I think. ended at $200.00, reserve not met.
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Can't tell if it has a fat dampner, but nothing else looks right. I'll go out on a limb and say it's not a hipo. If the guy used punctuation it would be easier to tell what he thinks he is selling.
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repop fans- $100
original fan- $800 to $1000
must be a market for the original stuff.
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I typed my VIN into Google and it came up with this page.
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what was you mile per hour? seems like you had some wheel spin. I think you may have shorted yourself shifting so early.
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Were you able to get out over the weekend, how did you do?
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From what I understand, the difference is cosmetic. The base system does not have the bar that runs along the top of the muffler.
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If you never find a sender that works you could try putting a resistor in line to tell the gauge the engine is colder. I don't know the ohms range off hand but doesn't the gauge go full high when the wire goes to ground? I thought maybe the ohms range would be in the book and you could get an idea of what to add to the circuit. Ford dealers used to have a gauge sending unit simulator, you could adjust the ohms on the tool and watch the gauge move around. Maybe your local dealer still has the tool.
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"i plan to Drag Race the car and burn a little rubber (it wouldn't be called a HiPo for nothing )."
Be sure to post some results. What gear are you going to run, bone stock motor, etc.?