Posts by 289kford

Quote from rds289k

I intend to purchase a set of radials for the street to go on styled steel wheels for my 65 FB. I will purchase them from one of the usual vendors. I will not show the Kar in these tires at MCA events, so historical correctness is not paramount.

What I'm looking for is something that rides well and has a nice look with raised letters. It will be for the 14" rims.

Any suggestions for a tire based on your experience?

Appreciate it,

=rds

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If you don't have the wheels yet, you could go with the 15" version of the SS. You will have a wider choice of tire size and brand.

I have 15" Magnum's and like the 'bigger' look, but it was mainly tire choices that sent me to 15". Running Goodrich Touring T/A's, 215/60 but thinking of switching to 205/65.

Quote from CharlesTurner

Absolutely horrible and the tire shop could never get them balanced right. Tried to tell us the wheels were bent,

Being the every day car, I realize you may not be talking about an old classic, but....

Keep in mind those old wheels are 'lug centric' and need to be balanced using the lug holes with an adaptor. A young guy may not know that and try to balance them using the cones for the newer 'hub centric' wheels. The wheel would wobble and look bent or out of round. The SS or Magnum's would be impossible to balance correctly with the cones.

I have some Focus parts on E-bay that have generated interest in the UK and Germany. I had in the auction 'USA only' but these guys are begging, and that raises a flag. What are the pitfalls of international shipping? It wouldn't be so bad being out the parts, but 100.00 shipping costs would hurt. I would only accept paypal, don't think I could get burned there. Maybe these are hard to come by over there.

Her's a Trident Clipper on E-bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/TRIDENT-CLIPPE…=item33610644c1

I saw a blank paint code 65 car a few years ago at a MCA show here in Ohio. It was painted a non-Mustang assembly plant Ford color, still had original darker grey paint (not mine. my car has the 'O' stamp, color was changed in the 70's). The owner said that back then, you could order a non-Mustang color and they would leave the paint code blank.

couple references

http://www.66mustang.net/convertible/stats.htm

http://www.geocities.com/mustangs68.geo/paint-prmo.html

http://www.martiauto.com/faqfocus.cfm?qid=104

It's an 'E' for sure. If you have a locker rear, I'm going with mis-stamped and the codes are reversed, or just confusion by the stamper that day.

this link has a code '6' for close ratio 4 speed, which a HIPO has but I thought they were all taggged as '5' and '6' was not used till like 69 or something. that '6' could look like an 'E'? later down in the chart a '6' is a C4. 66 could have had an auto trans. other than this or a mis-stamp, I don't know.

http://www.oldride.com/library/1966_ford_mustang.html

Do you have the axle and trans ID's reversed? If you have a 4 speed trans would be 5 and "E" would be a 3.50 locking dif. I've never seen a E for trans. DSO 81 is Canada, maybe they had some thing?

http://classicponycars.com/66data.html

I also saw a post from some guy that put one of these on his Falcon. He said "it's really loud now". It must of been some performance type of muffler.

How about this link to E-bay: from Branda

http://esp.ebay.com/viewItem?item=230487686584&v=gbh

english translation

1965-66 NOS MUSTANG (MUSTANG GT)

OPTIONAL PERF. IMAGE MUFFLER FOR DUAL EXHAUST

NOS FORD PART# C4RA-5230-A (ON ITEM)

NOS FORD PART# C5ZZ-5230-U (ON BOX)

HARD TO FIND NOS ITEM!

HAS BEEN IN STORAGE FOR OVER 20 YEARS!

WILL ALSO FOR ON: EARLY 60's FALCON SPRINTS

& COMET CYCLONES!!!

*** ONE MUFFLER IS FOR SALE NOW ***

*** BUT A 2ND MUFFLER WOULD BE AVAILABLE ***

*** TO THE WINNER OF THIS AUCTION ***

*** I BET THIS SOUNDS GREAT!!! ***

You can do the GT tips. There is a Youtube video of a car with the Arvin/tips combo.

[/quote]

I asked a mechanic about the Pertronix system and he replied with a question, "What do you do if it fails?" I put one in my "A" code hardtop and it runs great, but I have a set of points in my glove box, just in case.

Jim

[/quote]

I've heard that argument too. But....

What do you do if your fuel pump or axle bearing fails? What if the condensor from your points set up fails?

Why dwell (get it?) on the Pertronix? If we live with "what if's" we would need to pull a trailer full of spare parts.

Just know that on an old car like mine, with mostly old parts holding it together and making it go, anything can go wrong, and it won't happen in my garage. Just take it in stride as part of the thrill of owning an old car.

I have had the 1st version for years, no problems. I am thinking of going to the latest, it has multiple sparks and a rev limiter.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor3/default.aspx

I had a clip that holds my 1-2 shift rod break and fall off. While looking on the web to see what kind of clips are supposed to be used, I noticed something.

I have a (Competion Plus) shifter that was installed in the 60's, the shifter handle does not unbolt. All of the pictures I found, have the bolt on handle and the linkage rods were installed with the threaded end at the transmission. My rods have the threaded ends at the shifter. I can't believe my rods have been backwards, and working fine, for 40+ years.

Can anyone verify this one way or the other?

Quote from zray

the console door might work nice. I would remove it and fabricate a plate to mount the gauges in.

How about a re-working a reproduction door, about $50?

I think I would go with the 3x2 setup because you can use Holley or Autolite carbs, and would go with the Autolites.

Pony carb has a repro setup with 2100's.

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default.asp?pa…retors#tripower

There is a place selling the Weber setup look, but it is fuel injection.

http://www.dynaformance.com/applications.php

If you got the 'history' along with the car, would you share some of those early pics with us?

Maybe this is why you can't find one.

FRom some obscure safe kids website:

"15 Extremely Harmful Toys For Kids

In 1981, the CPSC recalled this creepy water toy. Even though this was before I was born, I still remember getting hit in the face with that stupid clown hat at least on one occasion. Regardless of the recall and the many eye injuries suffered by countless children, Wham-O continued to modify safer versions of this toy for years following. For those who remember this product (or a variation of it), this was the perfect toy to trick the new guy into getting smashed in the face by that damn clown hat."

But good luck anyway.

Found this for $100 http://www.retrocore.com/frontend/index…d&productId=142

Quote

1. What is an Arvinode exhaust K code ?

thanks, Chris

you may want to type 'Arvinode' into YOUTUBE too!

Edit that. You must check it out.

I have seen some posts on other forums saying that some of these additives and oils have too much ZDDP, causing corrosion problems. CD2 oil booster, for example, has 4800ppm. Some racing oils are for race cars, not street cars and need to be changed way more often.

The amount to have seems to be around 1200-1400ppm. STP 4 cyl, in the red container, is supposed to be in that range, along with the ZDDPlus.