I’m using a FORD lettered from the Muscle Parts era. Seems to be modeled after the F4B and Cobra/Shelby. it’s marked C9OX
Posts by 289kford
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You can go to Tirerack, pick a tire and compare all the specs for any given sizes, such as height, width, and suggested rim widths.
Since last year, on my fastback,
I’m running 205/65R15 Firehawks on Magnum 500’s, perfect in the wheel wells, I think. Just a tad taller and narrower than the 215/60R15 BFG’s I was running for years.
If you are considering new wheels, think about 15’s. They make a Styled steel in 15..
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Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-1965-Must…90972769&sr=8-7
Video in this link
https://www.fordmuscle.com/news/working-1…l-from-franzis/
As a side note, I’ve petitioned Liberty Classics in the past for a K motor but they won’t do it.
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Great news.
Now, if it would quit snowing or raining here in N.E. Ohio, I may get my car uncovered and going.
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Jump the “S” terminal to the battery post on the solenoid to see if it cranks. If it does, the solenoid is ok, so check for power to the S terminal with the key in the crank position. If no power, you need to trace that circuit back to the switch. If it does not crank when jumping the terminals, make sure the solenoid is grounded, and the cable from battery to solenoid is transferring voltage. If all is good with grounds and wires, get a new solenoid. You can find wiring diagrams on the internet if you don’t have them in book form.
If you had to get it running, with heavy wire, you could bypass the solenoid by jumping the two outer cables with the key on.
MAKE SURE IT IS NEUTRAL! I am assuming it has not had an automatic transmission conversion, then you could have a neutral safety switch issue.
As a side note, you are dealing with the starting system, not the ignition system. The ignition would be what gets the spark to the plugs in simple terms. The correct terms would help narrow things down if you want to google help.
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If somebody can paste the story, rather than the link, please do.
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Many, many years ago,1980 I think, I bought Cobra black wrinkle finish covers for mine. After a few years, I would swap them out for the chrome covers, and then swap them again when I felt like it. Poorly storing the chrome covers led to them getting too ratty to put on, so I sold them to someone who was going to restore them. Fast forward a few more years, I find myself wanting to go chrome again. Since my car is not pristine, new covers would look out of place and not look right with my original double hump air cleaner, that I’d give a strong 8 of 10. I watched ebay and found original covers that were worse than I gave up, or overpriced, or new too shiny repros . A couple months ago I looked again and found some used reproduction covers at half the price and better yet, not perfect. A ding here, a scratch there, very good chrome. I think they will look right at home. Cold weather is keeping me in the house, along with the Covid19 cluster.
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I think I used 289kford on all versions of the site. Would you check and merge? Thank you
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For what it’s worth, my January build has a double hump. I have no reason to think it’s not original.
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just changed my starter. my 65 4 speed took the 'automatic' starter.
this is another take on the differences. you need to measure the ring gear depth
https://www.moderndriveline.com/Docs/Ford%20de…006_30_2010.pdfI wanted to post the pic, but can't paste it.
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The content cannot be displayed because you do not have authorisation to view this content. Little nostalgia here. -
If I remember, the (2nd) old site could have been updated to comply with the hosting platform with not much effort. I’m not a whiz at all this stuff but I did read what needed to be changed and couldn’t understand why it was never done. I don’t remember exactly what they wanted, maybe I’m off base here? Any way, good to be back. I kept checking the old link and finally deleted it. I decided on a whim just to see what if anything came up and here we are. Looks like I missed a few months.
The jackpot would be to get the original site info back. That was a treasure trove. The second site never seemed to be the same as a bunch of members seemed to have given up. Hope this one takes off. -
Quote from cheesepocket
2) The H-pipe hung down way too low, so I had to have a local muffler shop put an extra 7 degrees of bend into the intermediate pipes between the H and the mufflers, making more room to pull the mufflers and therefore the H-pipe up closer to the floor
I saw a 65 last year that had a new h-pipe and the Arvinode exhaust. From a distance, the system was so low it looked like the car had headers hanging down. When I got closer to look at it, I saw what it was and thought he had the pipes upside down. Did not ask where he bought the parts, but h-pipes must need better QC.
Sounded fantastic though.
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Quote from C7ZZ-F
the secondary springs for a holley carb will interchange. gives a good selection to choose from.
Great idea! Since I traded my 4.11 gears for 3.50, I thought the secondaries take too long to open with the slower RPM increase. I was going to look into that mechanical conversion but this would be a good alternative.
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ran the part #'s, only one that shows available is C3AZ-6008-D,
from 3 dealers:
Pioneer Ford Platville WI 608-348-3673
Willey Ford Ames IA 515-233-1913
Bowman Ford Bowman ND 701-523-3257
quantity of 1 @ each dealer
Good luck!!
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Maier Racing sells 500# (MS2300) fronts to match up with rears (MS2305 or MS2306) to drop you about an inch. 500# will be less stress on the front end.
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Bob Allan Ford in Overland Park Kansas shows 1 in inventory. 913-381-2999
They are not always accurate, don't be surprised if they say they can't find it. They are only dealer in U.S. showing it.