I also have a 6R07K stamped transmission that looks similar to your stamping. The "7" and "K" seem to be struck using a single line die to form the digit by hand. The rest of the VIN looks normal. To venture a guess; could it be that at San Jose the "K" stamp tooling was worn-out , destroyed, or mis-placed and just formed with straight lines? Mine is a later production date than the yours. It would seem that subsequently the "7" stamp tool was not used on mine.
Posts by CMDR114_old
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Chris,
Not exactly an answer to your question, but I ordered a new '67 fastback GT back in the day (S code). It came with Firestone wide oval white walls (don't remember the size). There was a recall in '67 to have the wheel well beads reshaped inwards to prevent tire rub (may have been just the fronts). Mine definately were rubbing and were tearing into the tire sidewall.
Wayne
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Was there anything unique about the '66 K Code mounts as compared to the A and C codes?
Wayne
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Gary also recently restored my low profile unit. Paint, re-cal tach, quartz clock, new lenses, new trim rings and buttons. It will run you about $500. Very pleased with the workmanship.
Wayne
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I watched that car sell last night and couldn't believe it. The buyer got his face ripped off. The Studebaker style "Supercharged" emblems on the front fenders must have turned him on.
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Just curious...was the Weber set-up ever offered as a dealer installed upgrade back in '65/'66?
Wayne
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I hope you're smarter than me after you removed your Rally-Pac. I sent it out for restoration and several days later tried to start the car. It would start then immediately shut down. Had to connect the ignition wire that goes to the tach with the resistor wire from the coil.Found my answer to the issue on some Mustang forum.
Wayne
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Thanks,
That clears-up the colored portion of the spokes.My car is a July '66 and apparently should have the grey color and not cinnamon like the Scott Drake repros come with.
Wayne
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I have an opportunity to buy a set of original '66 Kelsey-Hayes styled steel wheels. They need restoration but are generally in good shape. Does anyone have any idea of their value?
Also, my spare wheel is original to the car. Looking at past forums on the center section color, it seems that it should be a cinnamin brown shade. Mine is definately grey in color. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Wayne
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Troy,
The photography and layout was done by Bill Bravo. He lives near Pocono, Pa and travels to many of the major car shows. Website: http://billbravostudio.com/ I have some other examples that he did for me of the Mustang. Over 100 pictures were taken. He also did several of my friend's cars as well as my Commander 114. I am keeping you in mind for a possible poster board. I have all the raw photos.
Wayne
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I agree with Paul. I have also attempted to update my car in the registry with no luck. I think that there is a statistically large enough sampling of the total K code run that one can draw some numerical conclusions as long as those numbers are stated as only estimates drawn from the registry sampling.
Wayne
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Early high profile 8000 rpm Rally-Pac for sale. C4ZB 1 5026-B. Unmolested factory wires and connections. Tach works, clock does not appear to work.Lower mounting strap missing. Make offer.
Wayne
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By July of '66 it appears that they were barely keeping up with demand. My July 26th proposed production date car has a block casting date of July 19th with an engine assembly date of July 21st.
Wayne
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Jack,
They do not have to match. I have a 19 and a 20.
Wayne
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Z.,
I also am having mine re-sleeved, by Mark, as a precaution, even though the bore appears to be OK. Just want to be done with it.
BTW, I'm a newbie to the K code world and have found a wealth of good info on this site. Thanks to all.
Wayne
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I read with interest the past threads on disc brake proportioning valves. While rebuilding my master cylinder and front disc brakes, I thought it would be prudent to also do the proportioning valve. I ordered the kit for the late model version from NPD and installed it. It leaked (it didn't leak prior to the rebuild). I sent the valve to Mark Furrier in Mass. He had told me that he was seeing valves with a 3/4 inch O-ring on the piston instead of the proper 11/16 inch. It turned out that that was the issue with mine. It seems that the kits from NPD have the wrong size piston O-ring. It should be very difficult to put the proper size O-ring on the piston; so much so that Mark camfers the end of the piston, soaks the O-ring in brake fluid and heats it up to get it to go on. If it goes on real easy, it's likely the wrong one. Just a caution to all who get thier kit from NPD.