I ordered mine out of the back of the NPD catalog.
Not 100% correct but looks very nice and only an MCA judge would ever know. It used to be $7.00 including shipping.
Just supply your address, build date, and plant. They'll mail it to you in about a week, all stamped and ready to go.
Mark
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Mark,do you think the underhood color is the same color as the floor as I've seen alot of what I think is different colors between the two and I hope others will chime in?
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I believe the underhood black is a little more satin (dull) in appearance. There's actually a slight shine to my floors, more of a semi-gloss. It appears my '65 developed a fluid leak early on in it's life and coated the floors and perfectly preserved them......lucky me!
Mark
I have a two Dearborn cars - 5F09A (Oct. '64) and a '6F09K (Apr. 66).
Both are original underneath and both have semi-gloss black, bumper to bumper. No red-oxide at all. I'm currently detailing the original floors on my '65 and they will be refinished in the same chassis / semi-gloss black.
Mark
Mustang Week 2011 next week in Myrtle Beach - anyone going??
It's 7/19 thru 7/23.
http://www.mustangweek.com/home.shtml
I'm just going to display only as show registration is closed.
If you're there, look me up.
I'll probably be parked at the SCMC Cobra Club Trailer.
I should have the only Nightmist Blue '66 K-GT 2+2 there as not many vintage Mustangs make the trek.
Mark
Mark,
I just finished a rebuild on my drivetrain with a Ram 3-finger HiPo replacement. It's stiff, but that's the way they were.
Possible issues:
>> Clutch fork not properly seated on the t/o bearing
>> Possible gauling on the input bearing housing where the t/o bearing rides.
>> T/O bearing installed backwards
>> Make sure your bell crank assy. is lubed and the pivot bracket is properly adjusted with respect to your pivot ball on the engine block. Basically allowing minimal side-to-side play and definitely in-line. Also plastic bushings and felt washers are in good shape.
>> Have you replaced your clutch pedal bushings - could be worn??
>> I'd never pull the engine to change a clutch. Much easier to slide the trans. and bellhousing back from underneath. I have a lift (but no trans. jack) and still lowered it down to where I was on my back and maneuvered the trans. in place with my floor jack.
Good Luck!
Mark
Mark, thanks for sharing this!
I'm sorry I missed this post when it was first done last year.....Even more, I wish I could have been on this jaunt to relive a little of the history my Grandfather, Maj. Col. Edwin S. Day, 8th Air Force, 398th Bomb Group, helped to establish.
He was attending UCLA on scholarship in 1942-43 at age 20 when he fealt the need to better serve his country, so he joined the USAF. He qualified for OCS and then went on to Flight School as an Officer. He was trained to Pilot the B-17 Flying Fortress and sent on to the UK where he was stationed at a small Air Base in North Central England called Nuthampstead - later to be called Royston. He was there from late 1943 until the war ended in 1945.
If you survived 25 bombing runs, it was considered heroic and you were able to head home. My Grandfather re-signed not once, but twice! He flew a total of 52 Bombing Runs in the B-17 to help liberate Europe from the Nazi strong hold. He was never shot down but went thru 3 or 4 planes over the 2 years in action due to unrepairable damage.
He retired in 1963 at Eglin AFB after 20 years of commendable service. He even flew non-combat during the Korean War to deliver supplies and troops where they needed to go. It was there that my Mom (he was my Mothers Father)met my Dad, who was an Airman at Eglin AFB from '60-'64. The rest is history.....
He was always my hero growing up, because he was my Grandfather. He was also a true American Hero by any standards, just as every one of our US troops were back then as well as any and all still serving as well as retired today. May God Bless.....
He passed away 10 years ago in May at the age of 78, in Sunny Niceville, Florida. May he forever rest in peace.
Thanks again Mark for reminding us what our families before us endured so that the rest of us can live the fruitful lives we now live today. If your ever in that area of Nuthampstead, and there's a memorial, please forward a pic or two. It would mean a lot.
Mark
I think you should pull the trigger before someone else does.....
It looks like a heads up Kar by the pics, especially since you owned it before. I had to do a double take as our Kars are identical except mine doesn't have a console - right down to the blue balancer, GT wheel and Black Rally-Pac. Mine is a 26D '66 Dearborn build with it's original interior, rebuilt original drive train, and a 30 yr. old repaint that's about due again. Nightmist Blue code-K is really hard to beat and has become my favorite.
The rust mentioned is minor and very repairable. I wouldn't take $33k for mine so I think the asking price would be considered 'well bought' IMHO.
Best of luck on your decision!
Mark
Brant,
sent you an e-mail........
Mark
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Mark,
Please fire the pictures out! My email is BiffF15@gmail.com.
Thanks,
Damon
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Pics sent.......
Mark
Look on the Tail Shaft Housing on the drivers side where it bolts to the main case. I've seen several Metuchen tranny's with the VIN stamp on the diagonal 1/2" wide edge surface between the two bolts. Sometimes the 'K' is stamped upside-down so it appears backwards.
I have some pics if you want them e-mailed.
Mark
I used Forged pistons in my rebuild several years ago.
They were only about $80 more then hyper-eutectic....
My stock pistons lasted 127k and only had one cracked skirt.
The bores were running 4.006-4.008 so rather than honing to 4.010 and using 4.000 pistons with 4.010 oversize rings, I opted go the minimum bore at 4.020 and std. rings.
Best of luck on your rebuild........
Mark
Okay folks.....
Contacts were exchanged and offers to purchase were put in place. But no deal was made unfortunately due to varying opinions and circumstances.....
Purchase price really plays no part in an items value as it just as well could have been in Grandpa's basement and therefore free. It could also have been an impulse buy way in excess of it's value.
That being said, Value is placed by the seller in asking price and either agreed upon or not by the purchaser. In this case, disagreed upon......
From what I've seen engines go for recently, $5k is well within reason. I think $4k for Block & Caps is a little rich but not overly excessive. Especially when the buyer owns the Kar that the engine was originally built with. Kind of of puts a skew on things...
I'd value the virgin Block & Caps at #3k-$3200 and for an add'l $1800-$2k you get the rest of the engine components, which sounds like a bargain.
The re-stamped engine also has significant value for trade or for re-sale and should certainly be considered as equity in making the deal.
What's it worth $5k, $6k, $7k, maybe even $8k to the right person???
To me, selling one to fund the purchase of the other is a no-brainer, especially with 5-mos of winter around the corner to complete the project.
My .02$ and am still possibly interested if this all doesn't play out....
Mark
I'll chime in here......
This is all good stuff and spot on!
I grew up with both Mustangs and Corvettes in the family and my Dad still has both.
In the Corvette world, all engines were VIN stamped on the pad over the machined broach marks adjacent to the mating head surface. All date codes were always before the build date of the car - nothing new here.
However, it has become perfectly acceptable in the ultra-anal Corvette community to assemble/build a date code correct engine, resurface the block, apply new machining broach marks (though not always) and re-stamp the block accordingly. For the most part, owners disclose that it is numbers matching and date code correct but not the engine that it was born with. Gives a value of approx. 90% of a true orig. engine car as opposed to 70-80% with just a replacement engine. There's always a few ethically challenged owners out there that won't disclose.....searching for that almighty $$$.
That being said, if you're an un-informed or mis-informed buyer purchasing a #'s matching car, be it a Ford, Chevy, Mopar, etc., the burden lies with you, the purchaser, to perform the proper verifications.
This particular case, the owner purchased just that, a date code correct, numbers matching '66 K fastback. Unless you've studied numerous original VIN block stamps, whose to know the difference. Walks like a duck, quacks like a duck.......it's also listed in the HPMX registry accordingly.
Now, out of the blue, a fellow HPMX member and K-owner winds up with your 'real' original engine with a verified VIN that matches your Kar....uh-oh, now what?? Your Kar is now worth approx. 10-15% less today than yesterday - bummer. Course of action would be to try and make a deal to purchase the engine and move forward. It's value lies in what it's worth to you (fair or not)to put your Kar back into the Orig. Engine / #'s Matching category. If the price exceeds the percieved added value, then pass. However pass with caution as it's extremely rare to be given the opportunity to re-unite an engine with it's original Kar - at any price!!
For pure logistics (Like in the SAAC Registry), a notation needs to be made in the file on the said Kar with new information about the engine re-stamp. Also, that the original engine has surfaced but yet to be re-united with said Kar. Information to follow.....
I hope this gets resolved with an ammicable and happy ending!!
Mark
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Sent you a PM.......very interested!
Mine were left on.....4/26/66 dearborn Kar.
According to my Window Sticker, it was delivered via CONVOY to Duthler Ford in Grand Rapids, Michigan. So I don't believe the Tie downs were ever used.
Mark
For what it's worth......My April '66 2+2 Dearborn kar has the same ones as shown in the pics that Round2k <b></b> posted.
Mine looked about the same condition as well as it resided in the Dearborn area.
Mark
These are both Holman-Moody built 427 race cars.
I watched them get built about 5-years ago here in Charlotte at the HM shop. No expense spared!
They run in a special Vintage Class in Europe where only the types (year/make/model) of cars that participated in the original races back in the day are eligible. They must meet all safety standards as well per the stringent rule book.
I've become friends with Lee Holman over the years and get to see a lot of cool projects whenever I stop by.
They still build engines and grind custom cams for those who are interested.........
Mark
Thanks guys for all the input and advice!!
Just ordered an Oil Cap and a few other items to complete my spring/summer task of new clutch assy., u-joints, fuel & brake lines, and a drum-to-drum concourse rear-end restoration/rebuild that included the center section.
Regards,
Mark
Brant,
It's one I got from either NPD or local Harris Mustang about 4 yrs. ago. Has the FORD logo and is non-emissions.
It looks nice but my complaint is the stamped steel 'keeper strap' inside the bore is made from soft steel and bends. It's either too tight and won't press on (binds) or too loose and flops around. Basically has zero grip.
The originals, as I recall, have a spring steel strap that grips the ID of the filler tube by always applying outward pressure.
If yours has the spring steel keeper strap, I'll order one.
Let me know and thanks for the reply!!
Mark
Thanks for the response guys.
Here's a link to the NOS one I found (like was on my car when purchased with the large radiused upper edge and red sticker):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Here's a great link to some FORD P/N's as reference (search p/n):
http://mustangservicecenter.com/inv1213b.htm
Red Dot (non-emissions):
C2SZ 6766 B 65-69 OIL FILLER CAP NON-EMISSION CHROME
HiPo (non-emissions):
C5ZZ 6766 D 65-67 OIL FILLER CAP CHROME
HiPo (w/emissions):
C5ZZ 6766 B 65-67 OIL FILLER CAP W/TUBE FOMOCO
I guess the Red Dot cap could be early HiPo for Mercury or possibly Fairlane. Could even be from a truck - who knows.
I guess i'll have to live with my junk re-pop until a NOS one comes up for a reasonable price.......
Mark
