Posts by J_Speegle_old

    Quote

    This is me and my son's project kar trying to keep as org as possible,....................


    Ok ... had the car been redone before? IF not was the original floor pan/undercarriage color visible?


    If not then when and where was the car assemblied?


    Answers will lead to what color the car original was an what color you need to return it to.


    From there other can offer what they are using (as for type and brand of paint) but IMHO I would use an epoxy primer/sealer toned to match the original color for your car rather than deal with trying to get base coat/clear coat right for this application. Even on cars using that paint process on the body we are still using straight enamels for overspray in the wheelwells and on the undercarriage

    What are your future plans for the car? This is the main guiding points for your choose, but remember that any thing short of going original (correct primer/sealer, overspray, chalking and sealant) will limit your choices in the future.


    Remember after the unibody... everything else is bolt on ;)

    Quote from paul

    The items listed above are still out of state. I expect to have them in my possesion by early-mid Feb. I will ask the former owner if the air cleaner base is a 6A or 6C. Base is $150, base and lid are $300.


    Paul any chance of getting a picture of the date? A or C would make allot of difference in my situation

    Quote from 65 2plus2

    J_Speegle


    Assembly Date? I don't recall seeing one. I will double check this weekend. Would there be one if it was an over the counter purchase? You got my curiosity up. Darrell


    If you purchased the block assembled as at least a short block then yes. If the block was sold as a bare block then no. Would be stamped on the little ear/extension, drivers side front edge or where the head would bolt on

    If you’re asking about the front wheel well inner fender panel finish on a 67 Dearborn car I would offer the following. The typical practice was to apply the red oxide primer (which may differ from the primer color used on the bottom of the car) then shot the body color (which commonly covered the firewall area of the front wheel well as well as the inner fender panel behind the shock tower and part of the exposed frame rail in a diagonal fashion.


    When the engine compartment area was blacked out. In this the practice was typically to apply the black back to the front area of the shock tower covering most of the front inner fender panel on the wheel side and painting the fender lip would produce black overspray on the other area that might still be red oxide or body color in the wheel well.


    Of course nothing is exact and the stop and start points on any of these applications could be further forward or rearward depending on the worker that day.


    And finally much of this area was covered over with sound deadener once the car was completely assembled (minus the front wheel and tire).


    This may help illustrate what I'm describing


    Hope this helps


    [Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/67Dearbornwheelwell.jpg]

    Quote from smsbgky

    2. I cannot find the tag on the assembly in the car (crawled under the car). Where should the tag be located?

    3. If I cannot find the tag, how do I verify the ratio? It for sure is not a limited slip.


    2. Normally on one of the third member mounting studs held in place by the same nut - most often passenger side mid way up from my experiance


    3. Though there is a process of marking the tire and rotating the front yoke but to be more specific pull the third member, and count the pinion and ring gear teeth. If the bolts holding the ring gear in place are mounted (the heads) to a smooth machined surface its not a limited slip. If they are counter sunk in the carrier then it is, just might be worn out


    Hope this helps

    Have found pieces and remains on Mustangs built at San Jose over the year many years ago. Likely will not be able to post a picture (way before digital became handy) or a VIN. Sometimes it was just the remaining adhesive.


    Only couple in person over the years.


    Recall it was the same black friction tape we are used to seeing on an early Mustang

    Quote from jwc66k

    In a previous post, somebody stated most people buy a car off the lot. I've owned nine new cars in my lifetime and eight were ordered, as in 'not bought off the lot'.............


    In the 60's and 70's common practice was to order and wait for your car to be built rather than buying off the lot/from inventory from everything I saw. Just was not what most people were used to. Of course this changed through the years likely to the "want it now" baby boomers


    Just a little observation ;)

    Quote from round2K

    The voice of experience; nothing worse than paying up for one and having it puke after six months.


    Had a 66 Shelby at SAAC last year who's NOS carBURAter pump gave up (fuel shooting out the vent hole) as soon as we started doing the mechanical and electrical checks on it at the show. Owner and builder were not happy at all.