Posts by LuvKcodes_old

LuvKcodes_old · 5R09K185005 NIR LuvKcodes_old October 16, 2007 at 12:39 AM

Apparently the car didn't sell on ebay. It's back on with a starting bid of $24,500 which hasn't been offered yet. That's a lot of money for a car needing so much work. I'd have to see it to pay anywhere near that much for it.

LuvKcodes_old · 5F08K777151 LuvKcodes_old October 16, 2007 at 12:36 AM

I'd have to see this car before I'd pay even $15,000 for it. All those who believe it has 75K original miles please contact me, I have a bridge for sale. When I see some misleading or inaccurate statements about a car for sale I tend to suspect there are many more things wrong about it. There are not enough details about this car to know just what it is worth but I'm pretty sure $27,000 would be plenty.

LuvKcodes_old · mustang for men LuvKcodes_old October 11, 2007 at 7:11 PM

I checked out all the Mustang videos and voted for you. Hope you win!

LuvKcodes_old · White wall tires LuvKcodes_old August 29, 2007 at 9:49 PM

You can order the Goodyear 695-14 Polyester 7/8 whitewall tire from Universal Vintage Tire in PA for $130.

Goodyear Integrity is a whitewall radial that looks strikingly similar to this tire although the whitewall is .5. Tire Rack has this tire and it may also be available at your local tire dealers.

LuvKcodes_old · 5F09K398879 NIR LuvKcodes_old August 28, 2007 at 11:54 PM

It is a good-looking car, too bad it wasn't restored faithfully. It's a nice driver and could be redone someday but obviously the dealer won't take what the car is worth in it's present configuration. Nor will he likely have to since someone will bid higher than what it's at now. Unfortunately, a proper restoration would cost so much it would price the car above market, considering what it's going to cost to buy it, to make it worthwhile. But maybe someone will do it anyway?

LuvKcodes_old · 65 fb pricing LuvKcodes_old July 11, 2007 at 9:47 PM

I agree with your rationale. But I have a friend who restores Mustangs and does virtually all the work himself, all mechanical, body and paint. He sends out what requires specialists to do, as we all would. This cuts his restoration costs to a minimum.

I would roughly estimate this car would require $10,000 in parts but could easily run $15,000 or more to get the right K stuff if it's not on the car in restorable condition. Even if you consider your hundreds of hours of labor to be free, that makes the cost about $32-37K. Considering all the labor it would take, I can't see restoring a car at this cost when you could likely buy a similar restored car for under $40,000.

One thing for sure you're right about, "the cost of restoration is always more than anticipated," often way over budget.

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I am a real estate appraiser by trade and have some experience with appraising personal property. I also own 3 K code cars and I am a Gold Card judge for MCA. The way I look at the value of a car like this is to back into it. I look for sales of finished cars (which are much more plentiful than cars that need restoration) and deduct the estimated cost to get them to a finished condition.I guess that the market participants typically do not know what the actual cost of restoration is, because most people pay way more than they should for cars that need restoring. A quality restoration should run $20-$40K depending on how work much the owner does himself. New parts and materials alone can run $15K.

Another problem with valuing unrestored cars is the extent of restoration required. A severly rusted car can cost double what a solid strucute would run. Some unrestored cars are sold with a lot of parts that could be used in the restoration. All of this should be taken into consideration.

As an example: If the finished car is worth $45,000 and the cost of restoration is $25,000, the you should pay no more than $20,000 for the car. The cost of restoration is always more than anticipated.

LuvKcodes_old · 5R08K192913 LuvKcodes_old July 7, 2007 at 11:35 AM

Yes, it's too bad the "complete restoration" which was just "completed 5 days ago" didn't go a bit longer and a bit more carefully and accurately. Don't know what's under the paint or inside the motor, needs a lot more detailed info but I like the Kar and wouldn't mind completing the work. Says it has a "fresh original 289" but not so sure that means the original K motor or just any old 289.

The Kar has fog lights and appears to have the fog light switch on the dash, as well as some gauge below the dash. But no other GT stuff.

What's the month code on the data plate? Looks like O but shouldn't be, I can't tell what it is, could it be a Q? Where would that San Jose unit number fit in the production?

Nice Kar, for a Chevy dealer to be selling. Typical dealer hype in the description.

Edited by - LuvKcodes on 07/07/2007 11:44:46

LuvKcodes_old · K Code Prices LuvKcodes_old July 7, 2007 at 10:46 AM

I have seen a couple of very nice K codes reportedly sold recently for very strong prices, possibly records or near-records. But there are several others being advertised now that aren't selling for the asking price. Most of them are at classic car dealers who ask very inflated prices so I definitely wouldn't use those prices as a guide.

Fastbacks do seem to be strong still and I agree there doesn't seem to be hardly any real good ones advertised for sale right now. There are several coupes and I have seen some very good buys on these, both nice ones and projects.

There is the red K convert just ended on eBay, second time around and the high bid hasn't broke $40,000. The current owner, a Florida dealer, bought it recently from an Oklahoma dealer at an undisclosed price. The links are referenced elsewhere on this site. The Oklahoma dealer was advertising it for $54K. The Florida dealer says his eBay reserve is about $58K. Apparently this is too high for the present market but from the pics and description, if it's accurate, looks to be a very nice car. Maybe someone will decide they have to have it.

It's hard to look at internet ads and guess what a car is worth without seeing the car and knowing enough specific info. Most of the K codes for sale have some weaknesses... not the K motor, not original metal, rough shape, etc. To me, these cars are not worth much as they will need substantial time and money to ever make them right and I'm not into that right now. On the other hand, if a really nice K code shows up for sale on the internet, you can usually tell it by the pics, description and a long chat with the owner. You can tell if he's being straight with you and telling the facts about the Kar and not making a bunch of stuff up or exaggerating the condition. It's still advisable to see and evaluate the Kar before spending big bucks.

Prices can be volatile and there is a huge difference based on the quality of the Kar. So each Kar has to be evaluated separately. I do have the impression that the market has softened in the last six months and may continue to do so but that might make a top quality Kar a bargain even at the seemingly high prices.

Edited by - LuvKcodes on 07/07/2007 11:04:36

LuvKcodes_old

I'm using the Mobil1 15W-50 also and will continue to unless something else looks like it will do the job. I like that Mobil has addressed the ZDDP issue for the needs of older and performance vehicles. I'm sure there are other oils that are adequate, hopefully the other companies will also provide info and assurance as to which of their products is best.

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Mobil 1 15W-50 is being reintroduced based on popular demand. Mobil 1 15W-50 provides higher viscosity, designed to provide extra protection for performance vehicles and vehicles that operate in severe service, such as towing, hauling and racing. Additionally, Mobil 1 15W-50 contains higher levels of anti-wear (ZDDP or Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate) that may be required for certain racing applications and camshaft designs. This is a new Mobil 1 15W-50 formulation and is not the same as the product that was marketed a few years ago. ......"

LuvKcodes_old · Wild West National Concord LuvKcodes_old June 26, 2007 at 2:54 PM

Nice pics, thanks!

LuvKcodes_old · Reverse Lockout Problem LuvKcodes_old June 15, 2007 at 10:38 AM

Something is out of whack or broken. Try shifting into neutral and let the clutch out. Then put it in first gear and move the car a bit. Then go to second and then into reverse. If it still won't go, do it again and put it in each gear and move the car a bit. Sometimes this sort of maneuvering will line things up and it will then shift into reverse.

LuvKcodes_old · 5F08K774680 NIR LuvKcodes_old June 12, 2007 at 4:32 PM

Ahhh yes, the decal over the data plate has covered the "7" as in "76B"

Edited by - LuvKcodes on 06/12/2007 16:36:30

LuvKcodes_old · Hipo trans and main caps LuvKcodes_old June 6, 2007 at 9:25 AM

This prior discussion may help... or it may add to the confusion?

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…78&ARCHIVE=true

LuvKcodes_old · Just Spoke to my Kar's Original Owner LuvKcodes_old June 6, 2007 at 9:14 AM

Many cars of the late '50's and all thru the '60's were painted in various shades of golds, bronzes, greens, blues, turquoise, brown and other colors. Apparently people appreciated color and originality more then than they do now since most cars in recent years are silver, white, black or beige.

Many of the vintage cars had their color changed in later years to the then more popular colors of red or black. It's really too bad since the beautiful original colors make the car more authentic and interesting.

It would be expensive to return your car to the original color scheme. New paint and probably all new interior too? And don't forget a data plate to match! Since you like red and Rangoon Red is a good looking color... don't let it bother you that it's not original. The car is going to be beautiful either way.

LuvKcodes_old · Mustang Question LuvKcodes_old June 6, 2007 at 8:54 AM

Since you are certain the car had a generator, assuming it came that way, the car was a '64 1/2. However, it seems unlikely the car would have sat at the dealer for several months until sold in April or May of 1965. But that is always possible. It could have been a demo or dealer driven car... or who knows what?

Are you sure it was 1965 when the car was bought? Could it have been 1964? Because the car was built prior to Sept 1964 if it was a 64 1/2. Was your driver test the same year or was it when the car was a year old? That would explain it. May be some discrepancy in the dates cited?

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My cousin bought a new turquoise/black fastback 6 cyl auto Generator (i replaced the brushes) She bought the car in April or May (it was snowing on her new car she was pissed) of 65, I took my drivers test in August in the car 1965..

Was it a 64.5?

LuvKcodes_old · Mustang Fender LuvKcodes_old June 5, 2007 at 11:23 AM

Sorry, don't have either one of those for sale. I'll let you know if I come across these parts.

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Hi Rick.

I have an April 65 K. I'd be interested in knowing what parts you have. I'm mainly interested in a HIPO fuel ump and original HIPO fan. I'm all they way over here in OZ.

Thanks for your time.

Regards,

René

LuvKcodes_old · Mustang Question LuvKcodes_old June 5, 2007 at 11:18 AM

These will give you some info:

How to Identify a '64 1/2 Mustang... Mustang Monthly

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/thehistoryof/mustang_1964/

'64 1/2 List of Differences:

http://www.early-mustang.com/modules.php?na…=showpage&pid=7

LuvKcodes_old · 5F08K665415 on eBay NIR LuvKcodes_old June 4, 2007 at 11:58 PM

It's surprising that it has so much of the original stuff still on it considering how rusty it is. The seller says it has been sitting for over 20 years and it has a 1977 Pennsylvania sticker on the windshield indicating that was when it was last registered.

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Did anyone notice that this car still has the road draft tube?

I just noticed it in the pictures.

LuvKcodes_old · 5F08K665415 on eBay NIR LuvKcodes_old June 4, 2007 at 11:48 AM

This could fire up another round of the rebody versus part-out controversy. Assume that you've had this Kar since new and had a lot of nostalgic attachment for it... make up your own scenerio... your father who was killed in Viet Nam owned it, etc. Now you can't tell me you wouldn't MUCH rather rebody/rebuild the Kar than simply sell the parts off? If that justified rebodying it, then any excuse is just as good, isn't it?

Obviously the K stuff is worth a lot... apparently the seller thinks more than $12,600. So take this Kar, get another convert with a very nice body... drive-train, interior, etc. not important... maybe $10,000 and put them together. It would be a beautiful car what with the triple-black. So now what's better... this rare K convert back on the road, albeit rebodied... or reincarnated or rebuilt, whatever term you like... or scrapped and the parts disbursed to other cars... is there any real difference?

If it were my Kar and the circumstances were right... I would have no problem doing whatever it took to "restore" the Kar. I don't know about you but even though I don't own the car and probably wouldn't buy it once it had been restored... I love the car, just for what it is and the history behind it... I don't want to see it destroyed. But the seller better do something with it soon or it will be a pile of rust dust out in his field.

Edited by - LuvKcodes on 06/04/2007 11:53:12

LuvKcodes_old · 5F08K201783 64.5 Convertible LuvKcodes_old June 4, 2007 at 11:30 AM

I'd bid on this car but I'd have to sell a couple of cars. So if someone would buy my '65 K Fastback (restored) and '66 A convertible (80K mi original) .... that would pay for PART of it.

I've been wanting a 64 1/2 K convert.

About the tonneau... was that a factory or dealer option? Were the snaps factory and are they in the right places on this car? My '66 convert has a tonneau but I'm not sure it is original.

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Beleive it or not the white walls are correct for these cars! The Red Band tires weren't available yet!

Yes, the whitewalls are correct... and they can also be correct on later cars since ordered cars had a choice of redlines or whitewalls... my K is documented as ordered and delivered with whitewalls. I've thought about putting redlines on it but not sure I would like the redlines since it's Rangood Red and red interior.

It will be very interesting to see what it sells for... if it sells.