Posts by 65Rangoon_old

  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>sorry another dumb Q

    for some reason

    i have two different types of gaskets

    that go between the hipo exhaust manifolds

    and the 'H' pipes

    see picture below

    one is wider than the other

    which would be correct for a hipo?

    thanks

    iowa

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>The dark colored gaskets are the only thing I've ever seen on early cars. I also have a pair of the blue style picked up somewhere in my travels. But, I suspect they are just some suppliers idea of kool, or perhaps they are more heat tolerant. But I've never seen one of the originals fail as long as the H-Pipe is kept tight to the manifold. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Build Sheet(s)

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Two holes forward of the gas tank on the trunk floor (punched 3/8" in diameter).<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Perhaps those two holes are from a trailer hitch installation. I installed a light duty hitch on my new '66 Mustang F/B back in the day. It bolted to the rear bumper, and there were two arms that curved under the gas tank, bolting to the trunk floor just forward of the tank.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • About to Kommit Power Steering Heresy

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I'd say go with a power rack & pinion unit/kit. There are aftermarket bolt-in units for about 2K that attach to the under side of the frame, replacing that brace under the oil pan. No welding of any sort required. A friend has planted a non-pwr rack & pinion under his '67 big block car at least a year and a half back, and is nothing short of totally satisfied with the outcome. The aftermarket systems do as a rule use the long steering rod shaft out of your current manual setup and it has to be cut in the process. Other than that, I'm not aware of any other mods that can't be reversed.


    You certainly can go with a factory setup but rounding up the necessary components can/will be a pain in the arse unless you have access to a donor car. But why do that and end up with 1965 sloppy, instead of the better performing rack unit. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Scott Fuller 66 Shelby/Hipo exhaust repro

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    What kind/brand of exhaust system is everyone running now?

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Stock H-pipe plus a Flowmaster engineered kit for the Mustang which includes 50 series mufflers and the required intermediate and tailpipe components. Not stock of course, but damn it sounds good at all RPM's. And, it has little if any of the dreaded droning (at least to my damaged ears resulting from 30 years in the USAF on the flight line) often complained about.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • What color blue for interior?

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>For 1965 interior code 22, Medium Blue Irid is the name call-out for the interior paint, which converts to R/M # 5747. That should enable your supplier to 'back into' the proper paint mix or perhaps cross reference to a Dupont equivalent number. For the exterior paint code 'Y' Silver Blue, the Dupont code is 4692. Hope this helps. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Restoration Part 9

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>A classy car with a super restoration you have there.


    It has been my experience that the bumper to fender end brackets can never be installed without ending up being mauled to some degree. I powder coated a set for a friend who told me NOT to mess with their profile, 'cause they fit his car to a 'T' just the way the were. Go figure.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Pistons

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Perhaps age, lots of hard miles, and/or perhaps too aggressive long term timing settings, resulting in a lot of pinging under load.


    Years ago I was told pinging was actually the cylinder walls vibrating. Can't speak to the accuracy of that statement, but no question something very violent is going on during each cylinder's power stroke.


    Eleven, twelve years ago when I was rebuilding the hipo's engine, I read several articles that supported forged pistons over the hypereutectic alternate for performance engines. So when I did the rebuild, I went the forged piston route. A more expensive choice, but for me it was the correct thing to do. I also went with stainless steel valves because it was the hot rod thing to do. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I can't quite get oriented to the pictures location and where on the frame rail that is.


    It does appear to me however, to be just aft of where the front cross member and radiator support are welded to the frame rail. If that is the case, there is an oblong hole on the bottom of the outer rail in that location, which incorporates a doubler welded to the inside of the rail. That doubler also has a somewhat smaller oblong hole. I'm guessing the oblong holes are there exclusively for drainage and air circulation when motoring on down the road.


    I can't tell what the overall shape of that doubler is, but suspect it has something to do with reinforcing the two attach points for the bumper horn and the tubular outboad bumper support, all of which attach there as part of the sandwich. Plus, anything else the engineers determined needed to be tied together to form a ridgid assembly.


    Those little scraps of metal at the spot weld points seem to be all that are left of the doubler.


    Wish I could give you a source for an exploded view of that area.In any event, hope I've been of some help.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • gas mileage

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I averaged 15-1/2 MPG (3:50 gears) on my trip to the 45th last year. That included running 70/75 MPH where we could. My running partner 65Hipo, same setup, I believe got the same.


    For our trip to the 40th, the result wasn't that different. For that do I plugged a 3:00 into the rear end (65Hipo stuck with the 3:50) and realized an astonishing 16-1/2 MPG [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]