Posts by PITT40

    So I picked up a Mexican 302 motor that has 289 HiPo internals, and very cheap I might add. The guy got it from some old retired guy friend and was just trying to make a couple bucks on a flip. He didn't really know what any of it was. It has big pop up pistons and the motor is std bore with no cylinder ridge at all. So very few miles and the pistons can be resold. It had 67 289 2V heads with screw in studs, guide plates and double valve springs too. So somebody will want those I'm sure too. It has the right rods and crank for my HiPo project. No balancer, hatchet or flywheel though. I only paid $300 for it all. So worth every penny. I did ask him to go back to the old guy and ask about the balancer, flywheel and distributor. And to ask if he had any other heads around (maybe I get lucky and they are hipo). So we will see.

    But my big question is, would it be a big deal to use the Mexican main caps on a C5 block? They have some extra casting numbers over HiPo caps. Or does anyone out there have HiPo main caps to trade for a good std bore Mexican block?

    So one more question after downloading the 289 book and reading. They speak of a special bottom timing chain gear. Is this still available for use with the hatchet? Anyone have a part# that will get the right timing chain set for a HiPo?

    I was 99% sure. But I also read that a HiPo has a narrow timing chain, which is counter to performance engine that use double rollers. Not sure why that would be. So much BS out there. I've known the basic differences for 50 years like heads, distributor, balancer, main caps, rods and exhaust manifolds. I never knew about the hatchet and 30 oz imbalance until digging into it with this new project. I've never seen one and had one real HiPo motor 40 years ago. But I never took it apart.

    Is there one page or site that shows all these pieces in detail?

    Well thanks! You are never too old to learn something. I have a 5 gauge that I put in my 65. I better take the grinder with a course flap disc and recreate that so it sits right.

    Guess google didn't find everything. To help with that here is a picture of two K codes. Upper pictures if of the gauge opening on a standard interior car from the 5R1104xx range and the bottom from a GT and or a Deluxe interior car from the 5R223xxx range. Could have found other engine sizes but since you were specific about K codes I found two of those examples because that was what you asked about in your original post. Notice the somewhat circular cutting out below the large centered speedo in the bottom example.

    Hope the pictures shows. If not click on the code

    [Blocked Image: https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-220925204825-213151656.jpeg]

    Hope this helps

    I've been messing 65-66 Mustangs since I was 12. So that's 45 years. I have never noticed a difference in the steel dash opening. I've put 5 gauge clusters into 65's with no problems, except modifying the wiring. I did a google search and got no results on any pics either.

    My VIN is 5T09K153619. The door tag is gone. All I can get from the VIN that I didn't know is it's a Metuchen, NJ car. #53619 at that plant. Anyone have a number very close so I can assess a build date? What is the best panel and location for a date code on the body? How do I know any details of the car to recreate a data tag? Do I technically have carte blanche to pick a color since there are no records? It's all primer now and I can't see any original color on the car.

    My VIN is 5T09K153619. The door tag is gone. All I can get from the VIN that I didn't know is it's a Metuchen, NJ car. #53619 at that plant. Anyone have a number very close so I can assess a build date? What is the best panel and location for a date code on the body? How do I know any details of the car to recreate a data tag? Do I technically have carte blanche to pick a color since there are no records? It's all primer now and I can't see any original color on the car.

    That snubber looks pretty standard to me. What does the C code cars get if not the one from the yellow GT coupe?

    Also, I asked earlier in the thread, did all non GT cars get the rocker molding? I'm not a fan and would like to omit them.

    In regards to the standard snubber plate, it is more square and appears a little taller. The GT and Hipo plate have a noticeable "smile" in the rear cut out of the metal. Once you have seen it, you cannot "unsee" it.

    -Fred-

    I crawled under my C code and the K code and can see the C code metal pad that the rubber is bolted to is more bulbous.

    Also, the correct 9 inch housing for these cars, does it have a ring gear bulge or is the back completely convex?

    Can somebody answer my other question too? I actually have more because I've never worried about being stock correct and just don't know despite owning my first Mustang when I was 12. LOL. Were all non GT cars equipped with rocker molding? How about things like the "FORD" on the hood? Could the hood be plain? I do know the hood front lip chrome was some type of option. I know they all had horses in the grill and the 2+2 emblems. Did all not GTs have the bumperettes too? I'm just more into the less chrome look.

    That snubber looks pretty standard to me. What does the C code cars get if not the one from the yellow GT coupe?

    Also, I asked earlier in the thread, did all non GT cars get the rocker molding? I'm not a fan and would like to omit them.

    Sorry for all the questions. I've owned Mustangs since I was 12 when I bought a 65 A code coupe. But nothing I have done has been concours restoration targeted. It's all been restomod of some sort. So this is new to me.

    Is there a good site with pics to show how the bottom of the car should be done and where undercoating goes and doesn't?

    I do not know if this car was a GT or not. The car was wrecked and the rad support is gone to look for a punched hole. It's K so it has the dual exhaust hangers and right rear frame rail block off for the rear hanger. There is no fog light switch but there appears to be holes for it. The car was drag raced and stripped down before becoming a street car again later.

    So my question is if it's non GT, did they all have the rocker molding? I'm not a fan.

    So I’m probably number 1,000,000 to ask this question.

    I know Marti reports do not start until 1967. I have this car with my serial number but the door tag is also gone. How do I find anymore detail about it? It’s a barn find project that’s got the correct 4 speed in it and wrong engine. So I can assume it was a factory 4 speed. It has the long style gauges so it’s likely std interior. But if I’m going to recreate the door tag how do I find date, axle ratio, etc?

    I'm a lifelong Mustang guy. I bought my first one at 12 for $500 from money I saved from working. That was a 65 A Code, 4 speed coupe (it came with a 66 coupe parts car too). My dad and got running and painted it. I resold it and made enough to buy a 65 fastback and that my first car when I turned 16. It was a Shelby clone. I've owned 8 fastbacks including a Boss 302 and SCJ 428 Mach 1. I've also had (3) Sunbeam Tigers along the way. I'm currently restomodding a 65 C code fastback. My kids both have 65 coupes as well. My daughter dearly wanted a fastback and today we secured a 65 K code car that needs a lot of work but not too much for my will. It's a gold metallic, black interior, 4 speed car. It still has the Hipo exhaust manifolds and the telltale dual exhaust brackets in the rear floors. Heck it still has the correct dual exhaust on it. It has what look like a 70's 302 in it now. Oddly enough my dad had a K code fastback when I was about 11 and it was color changed, but was a factory gold metallic, black interior 4 speed car. Life has a funny way of coming full circle. So we are looking forward to the project and happy that there is a form for these specific cars.