Sold Hammer Price: $60,000
Barrett-Jackson Lot: 966.1 - 1966 K-Code FORD MUSTANG CONVERTIBLE
Scheduled Auction Day: Friday January 22, 2010
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/on…=01%2f19%2f2010
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What is the origin of 7,273 for 1965 & 5,469 for 1966 K-Code's produced?
Brant - thanks for reproducing this much needed piece.
The spacer is a Ford licensed part reproduced by Scott Drake.
The Ford drawing indicates that the driveshaft was shipped to the assembly plant as a complete assembled driveshaft DRIVESHAFT ASSY. PART NUMBER C4ZW-4602-E. The assembly includes balancing, yokes, slip yoke, tube, front & rear U joints,(the rear U joint was retained for shipping),grease etc.....Your picture shows a balance weight on slip yoke/front end of the driveshaft. Hence the yellow paint to indicate the driveshaft was balanced????
Each of the components(yokes,slip yoke,tube,U joints,etc.)that make up the driveshaft assembly have an engineering part number.
The Ford documents I have do not reference any pink paint. I would assume the pink paint was applied during vehicle assembly to indicate an assembly process was completed to specifications???
From blog:
"I found yellow paint splotches all over." Not sure where you found the yellow paint....
The pink paint on the differential end of the shaft could indicate the U bolt nuts were torqued to spec. during assembly.
Previous discussions on this topic.
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…erms=driveshaft
From the original Ford Motor Company released engineering drawing for the Hipo driveshaft assembly engineering part# C4ZW-4602-E (2) paint bands 1" wide for identification approximatetly in the center of the tube GREEN & VERT (two different shades of green).
Per another note on the Ford drawing: "After balancing-daub with yellow paint the light side of balance condition"
Balance weights can be located at the front or rear of the shaft within a specified distance from the(ends)center line of the U joints.
BTW:distance between the center line of the U joints = 49.70"
The Ford documentation confirms what you & others have seen that paint stripes do exist. It would seem reasonable that both methods of applying the part ID color code are correct & not only dots.
Many car enthusiasts seek documentation to add credibility to confirm what is presented as original. I think that sharing the Ford information helps to full fill that need.
Quote from J_Speeglequote:
..........I wonder why my restorer elected to do the markings like he did?
Its common to find restorers using what they have seen or are comfortable. Have a guy use to 69-70's he will always lean towards stripes.
We start seeing stripes at San Jose in the mid year of 65 production (intermixed with dots) and move towards more to all stripes as we get into 66 production there from what I see
The Ford Motor Co. product engineering drawing indicate paint stripes.
Try Rodes Restorations,they have tags. http://userpages.bright.net/~rodes/
They said come in & look through the boxes for the correct tag. To far from where I live so I made a tag, had a local jeweler engrave the correct info.
The 289 Hipo C4 governer is also different.
Quote from CharlesTurnerquote:
Regarding stickers on the factory spare, attached is a picture of the original spare in a low mileage '65. I realize it's a 6 banger car and not a K. It was in an original low mileage (23k miles!), car that was discussed on another forum some time back.
Most likely would need a little verification that the wheel/tire is original to the car. Mileage may be low, but that doesn't necessarily guarantee all the parts are original.
OMG...pictures of an unrestored car is not a guarantee the part is original......What about talking to people that worked at the assembly plant over 40 years ago is that still good reliable info?
Sold for:$1,225.00
1965 Ford Mustang / Fairlane fuel pump. Genuine Ford NOS. Part No.# C5OZ-9350-A. For 289 special, with 4 B carb. Carter- identified by 3939S stamped on flange. No gasket in the origional box. Shipping in the USA $ 11.00, flat rate priority and delivery confirmation.
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Nice pump, I wonder how long it will remain in working order with today's fuel 
Search the forum for info. Here's a couple.....
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9778
1964 - 1973 Mustang Polished Aluminum Radiator Overflow Tank
Fits Any 1964 - 1973 Mustang Model. Looks Great !
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Private message sent.
Quote from bobmannelSorry for the late weigh-in on this subject. I had an unusal situation where I had a low-mileage HiPo engine, complete except for the flywheel. I plan to use this engine without replacing any of the reciprocating or rotating components. It is also going into a Fairlane K-code automatic. So, I needed a HiPo flex-plate. These are impossible to find. But, I came across an NOS 302 flex-plate stamped C8OP-C and decided it would be a good candidate to have it rebalanced from 28.2 oz.-in. to 30.4 oz.-in. Not only does the NOS flex-plate give me perfect ring-gear teeth, but it will be near perfect in imbalance to add to an already perfectly balanced engine (sans flex-plate).
I talked to John Cavataio at Dynotech Engineering Services in Troy, Michigan (248-362-2777) (http://www.dynotechengineering.com/) about what they could do. He said, “we set the flex-plate up on our STR balance machine and compensate for 28.2 oz-in of imbalance on the machine’s dial plate, neutralizing the existing imbalance. We then add 2.2 oz-in of material 180 degrees from the comp weight to raise the imbalance to 30.4 oz-in.” My cost was $175. Now I have a perfectly functioning HiPo flex-plate to add to my engine assembly. Dynotech's workmanship was first-class as can be seen in the photo below.
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Wise choice Bob, Dynotech does excellent work........ They can evaluate and balance full running drivetrain systems.
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This company say's they can balance anything......
I am curious where I might buy this type of conversion kit
Thanks
Steve
I have a new one for sale...........$25.00 to your door.
Why would it cost points & not just an item for improvement that is called out on the judging sheet the rules do not say a correct ribbed over-flow tube is required? See below from MCA rules.
II. Radiator, Hoses, Clamps, Lines and Fan Shroud:
Radiator: Ford type. Painted semi-gloss black with correct core thickness and black rubber over-flow tube.
Hoses: Molded rubber hose of original size and configuration. FoMoCo.
Hose Clamps: Pedestal type. 66 San Jose assembled cars may use wire type with staples. Transmission Cooling Lines: 64½ - may be crimp or pedestal type clamps.
Fan Shroud: Required on all HiPo and A/C. Painted black with rubber pad stapled to battery tray side of shroud. Flat tip shroud attaching screws.............................................................. 6 Workmanship, condition and cleanliness...............................4
