Posts by Burgundy66

  • 289 Hipo engine selling price

    A couple of things will help access value:

    • As mentioned, if you can get an inspection camera up through the oil drain plug and see if it has K rods, that could add a few bucks. Bonus points if you can see the hatchet/counterweight up front next to the timing chain.
    • If you don't mind pulling one or preferably both valve covers, you can get the casting number and date codes on the heads. Some heads hold more value than others, as some crazy guys (like me), are looking for specific dates and will pay more. Also, I could be wrong and others can correct me, but C8ZE service heads seem to hold less value due to the date codes.
    • If you can snag the casting date on the block (next to the C6AE number), as weil as the assembly date stamping (on the machined spot up on the driver's side front near the water pump, that would help folks decide if it's a date code they're looking for.

    • Last point. Since you mentioned it was new block, it probably doesn't have a VIN stamping on the lower passenger side oil pan rail, but if it does, people seem to care a lot about that. If you can check that.

      Hope that helps!

  • Pistons?

    Yep, I forgot....8.206. If you had a .0035 clean up pass done to that, you're still in good shape. If I were you, and wanted to have "zero deck", then I'd run the 1.605" compression height pistons and cut the block some more to get there. I'd mock it up and check and see what the actual deck clearance is at TDC. Then cut accordingly. Personally, I don't mind the piston down in the hole a tiny bit, to always allow for a future deck clean up if necessary.

    Very common gasket thickness is 0.041"

  • Pistons?

    I'm not sure on the rod length the original poster.

    But I am running 5.155 K service (Boss 302) rods. One thing I did not mention above is that to run the 1.605" compression height piston, the deck of the block will need to be untouched previously, or not much taken off of it. For example, with an 8.200" untouched deck, the 5.155" rod plus a 2.87" stroke puts the 1.605" compression height piston 0.005" down in the hole. That leaves exactly 0.005" of meat there for a "clean up" pass and then arrive at zero deck. Regardless, this all needs to be checked very carefully in the mock-up phase of the build.

    Kevin

  • Pistons?

    Couple of options. Just going through this right now with my build. What I found is:

    Speed Pro 2482 is the old-school TRW "flat top" forging with the four small valve reliefs that look like a HiPo.....I think they are 2.7cc volume total. These run the typical older 5/64 5/64 3/16" fat ring package, and 1.605" compression height. Generally speaking, that compression height and a 5.155" 289 rod puts the top of the piston close to zero deck, which will maintain compression near the original 10:1 intent. Note that a lot of replacement pistons called out for 289s these days run a 1.585" compression height, which will result in the piston down in the hole pretty far, and sap a lot of compression away. If that's important to you, and it sounds like it is, you have to keep an eye on that. Link to Summit for these pistons:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2482f30

    The other option, which is what I am using, is a "Summit" branded 4032 forging with 3cc eyebrows. These are make by RaceTec out in California, which was the former owner of JE pistons, and are a very quality piece. They are 1.605 compression height, lighter than the old 2482s, and most importantly to me, run a modern 1.5 1.5 3.0mm ring package. I won't go into why I like that, but the difference is real. They are pricier, but I only plan on building my K engine once.....I hope! Here's a link to those:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-SBF302030F

    Hope that helps.

    Kevin

  • Looking for 5F07K304334

    Update.

    I was able to get my paws on a 3rd Edition of the Registry, and see that in there (page 93), 5F07K304334 was still located in Alabama at that time. The 3rd Edition was published in 2002. So the rough timeline suggests that this Kar was in Alabama until the 2002-2006 timeframe. Then by the time the 4th Edition was published in 2006, the Kar had moved to Tennessee.

    Don't know how or if that helps in tracking down this Kar, but that's what we know so far. Steven Jemison, I hope that this helps, somehow...

  • Looking for 5F07K304334

    Thanks.

    I saw it also in the 4th Edition, but was curious if it was in the 2nd or 3rd Editions? Knowing when the 2nd and 3rd Editions were published, and if it is, or is not, in either of those editions, would help with the timeline of when the Kar was in Tennessee. Just a small point, perhaps it could be helpful?

  • Looking for 5F07K304334

    I was able to pick up a first edition of the Tony Gregory book. Of course you guys know that the first edition (1994) did not have the registry printed in it, but now I know that.

    That said, can someone that has the 2nd and/or 3rd edition look and see if 5F07K304334 is in it? Trying to use that data point to figure out approximately when it was placed in the registry and/or when it was in TN.

  • Looking for 5F07K304334

    I’m in a Facebook group called Lost Muscle Cars, which specializes in locating long lost vehicles. A member of the group is looking for his father’s former 5F07K304334, sold in 1980 out of Alabama. I looked in my 4th Edition Tony Gregory book and it shows up as located in Tennessee.

    Can anyone look in the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd Edition books to see if it’s in there? And does anyone know if the database contains anything about owners of these vehicles at that time?

    Thanks!