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I would like to have a 65 Cyclone with a hipo. This body style looks "meaner" to me than the Mustang body style. Lots of drag racing memories here.
Rick, enjoyed visiting with you at the Charlotte Auto Fair. My car's build date is close to yours and the original data plate is also gray.
6hypo5conv, nice choice on the carpet. I would order from Trim Parts if I was replacing carpet today based on the carpet in your car. BTW, beautiful job on your vert.
special wheel, 857 nine times rd sc. They did mine an it came out mint, original grain in plastic. came with 3 year warranty around 285 bucks at the time.
Are they still in business?
NOS red oxide primer FoMoCo. Can you use a coupe or convertible panel to make your repair? If so, you could save some dollars over the cost of an equivalent fastback panel.
I have two suggestions for you. Investigate Bill Herndon's Pony Warehouse located in Wake Forest, NC. The early years reconditioned wheels that they sell seem to please most people but they are not 100% spot on. The most accurate restoration of the woodgrain part was previously available through Pete Geisler at Orlando Mustang located in Osteen, FL. I believe that he had an artist actually doing the woodgrain restoration for him and it was by far the best work that I have seen on a restored plastic woodgrain wheel, almost looked like NOS. I am unsure if Pete still offers this service and if it is of the same level of workmanship. Woodgrain steering wheel restoration is time consuming work with lots of attention to detail if done properly. If there are other people that offer great workmanship, I would like to hear about them also.
The ribbed area in the middle, with the bars, is painted argent. The non-ribbed smooth area on either side of the bars is not painted, but left polished.
Gary, could you share the photos of the fittings that you sent to Brant? Thanks, Brian
I am beginning to think that these jacks for 65 and 66 cars did not have date codes on them. I went over two of mine and could not find a date code anywhere. Most likely they were made for Ford by an outside supplier. If sourced from another supplier, would there be a need for a date code? That may explain the stylized A in the picture above and the other totally different markings on another jack in my posession. Any other original owners care to share their thoughts on this?
Thank you Mu5tanggt. Your jack is identical to two that I have. At least one of the two came from a mid April 66 Metuchen car. The other jack is a fine thread jack screw style with different markings. Anyone else obsessed enough to pay attention to differences in jacks? I searched the archives but could not find relevant information.
I sure would. Could you please note if the jack screw is fine thread or coarse thread for me. Also what manufacturing plant was your mustang built at and what time period was the assembly date if it is not too much to ask.
I would still like to hear someone comment on any date codes or other identifying marks on jacks. Thanks.
I need some help with date codes and mustang jack identification. One jack has the U shaped brackets that contain a fine thread jack screw. I cannot find a date code anywhere on it but find a circle with RH stamped inside the circle. The second jack has the same U shaped brackets that contain the coarse thread jack screw with a slightly stylized letter A stamped into the jack. Again I cannot find a date code. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. If some of you original owners of unmolested cars could comment on this it would be most appreciated. I realize that early jacks are very similar, just need your help. Do I have 65 or 68 or 70 jacks? Thanks.
I have a spare driver's side door that has a little surface rust, mostly on the interior side, and some rust bleeeding around the seams where the outer skin is folded around the door. The rust issues come from the door being stored in a barn lean-to with one side open to the elements. From a quick observation, this is all surface rust, no rust through issues are apparent, but I am concerned with what cannot be seen. I had thought about having the door commercially chemically stripped, but am concerned about chemical leaching in and around the seams. What is the preferred method of treatment in this situation? I would appreciate the advice of restorers who have had to deal with this situation. Thanks.
Thanks Fred, I will be in touch.
Fred, I have a pump or two that I would like to get in on the second round of rebuilding if it is not too late. Could you please contact me about this? Thanks, Brian.
RECOMMENDED TEMPLATE: Sold for final sale price by seller
BuyItNow set at bin price(also post BIN if there is one for comparison)
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The carb bonnet looks a lot like one from a early/mid sixties supercharged Studebaker Avanti to me.
The console was a stand alone option, not part of the interior decor package. You look to have a very nice car with just enough unusual options to catch your eye.
I agree that there were indeed factory 3-speed GT's in 65. You would have to pay additional money to buy the 4-speed on a non k car. Although not many purchasers would choose a 3-speed manual in a GT, I have seen several original GT cars that were so equipped.
Think about this, 64 Chevy II body with the most powerful corvette motor offered in 65. Fred, was this your street racer version of Chevy II Much?
The early hipo's came with drum brakes all round, disc's came later, as an option.
The key word here is option. I remember a local 66 non GT K car, back when these cars were new, with drums all around.
