That's probably the engine assembly date. It's in the format of year number, month letter, day number and assembler/quality inspectors letter (5K21Z). Being that "K" is the letter for October, the engine is subject to the whim of the "Great Pumpkin", ala Charlie Brown.
Jim
Quote from steveawe have a FOMOCO 4bbl carb with manual choke and choke cable P/N C6ZFC A5HC.
Should read -
"C6ZF C"
"A 5HC"
Which decodes as a 1966 HP MT carb (C6ZF C) with rev "A" built 1965 (5), August (H), week three (C). Per Ford Car Parts, Sec 95 pg2.
Spaces have meaning.
Jim
The order number for an aluminum water pump for a 1965 289 V8 (all non A/C engines use the same items) is F-388, 10 pieces for $22.00. They have a $30.00 minimum order. The parts are very accurate.
Jim
Robert, well said.
The incandescent bulb industry cannot survive on minature bulbs alone, so, by default, they will slowly dissapear, being replaced by LEDs and who knows what else.
In my dissassembly instructions, add:
- Remove the four short screws on each side of the chassis to the bezel.
Tips for reassembly;
- Make sure the new bulb works first (the "on-off" switch must be in the "on" position).
- The small tabs on the aluminum inner bezel are a bit difficult but can be bent back to their original configuration by a screwdriver.
- Clean up the inner surfaces as long as you are in there, after all, its been 45 years.
- A bit of "juggling" may be necessary to get the knobs and shafts in the proper position, the bezel to slide in and the holes to line up.
Jim
California has a quicker light bulb ban on the books and they (the media and elected officials) don't say anything about it. Don't agitate the peons. At the local auto parts store (it used to be Kragans), the counter guys said the company is pushing LED bulbs and reducing the inventory of standard types. Halogen bulbs used in cars and the home are exempt for now. 4 foot 40W (F40T12) are being replaced by a 25W T8 and they are not interchangable, you will need new fixtures.
For cars who knows. Stock up.
Jim
Then inform me -
I got to that point but the power transistor bothered me. It looked like it needed to come out and I didn't want to un-solder the leads. At that point I put everything back together and went onto something else.
Forget all that stuff up there, I got a burned out GE 1891 in my fingers and here's how I done it:
For a 66 Philco radio (marked 6TPZ, accompanied with a dash of JD No. 7)
- Remove knobs.
- Remove retaining nuts on shafts.
- Using a 1/4 spintight, loosen the two top screws from the chassis. You do not need to remove the top cover.
- Remove the four screws on the front near the knobs, two about 1 1/4 inch long, two about 5/8 inch long. You do not need to mess with the power transistor screws, it will swing to the right with the bezel.
- Pull the bezel over the push buttons, swing it to right.
- Adjust the dial to the left end, like 560 on the dial.
- With a pair of needle nose pliers, twist the aluminum dial marker (it's the got the blue plastic cover on it) tab on the right hand side (visible from the top) so it's up and down.
- Bend down the tab on the left side of the dial marker horizontal by pushing down and gently pry the dial marker off.
- The burned out bulb is now accesable. With my nimble fingers, I reverted to my left hand to twist the bulb from it's socket.
- Reassembly is your problem (I'll do mine tomorrow).
I would also recomend that you get a lot of spare bulbs before the end of the year because an act of a damndemocrat (yes, it is one word) congress made them illegal as of Jan 1, 2012.
Jim
I've made some inquiries and done some Google searches but can't find a definative set of instructions on replacing a burned out lamp in a 65-66 AM radio. All I've gotten so far is 'you need to remove the front bezel' confirmend by a few and getting a chuckle or two from others. On the Mustang Monthly web site you get a lot of references but their search engine lists 10 pages of anything that has replacement, radio or lamp in it. I replaced one about 20 years ago but the details are "cloudy". Anybody got a link on how to do this? I'm asking for me as well as someone else with the same situation that asked me.
Jim
Over the years, I replaced all of my car's and others, steering wheels. On two, the bearings (it's really a sleeve) were split in half. The original is a metal item, the Ford replacement, B1AZ-3518-A, is plastic (teflon?). Although the Shop Manual doesn't specify, I used a light dab of lithium (white) grease. If it moves it needs lubrication.
Jim
"Clone" - a name change written on masking tape placed on fender.
"Original" - the trunk mat was glued in at the factory and I can't get it out.
"Restored" - a $29.95 paint job and viola!
"Restomod" - put on a 1050 Dominator and get 4.2 MPG.
"Performance" - removed air cleaner.
"Low rider" - tires need air.
"Trailered" - because it don't run.
"Raced" - rear wheels are taller than front.
"Approved" - I got it at AutoZone, so?
"Second Owner" - because it sat in a field for 38 years.
"Professionally (whatever)" - has a pair of jackstands and a wrench.
A complete change of topic (because I want to), Charles, how do you like the dual redline?
Jim
"Those that disregard history are doomed to repeat it." (Or something like that.)
(Do posts have an expiration date?)
Putting a destroyed car's VIN on anther car happens. I know of a GT350H that had a completly demolished front end but the owner kept a strip of fender apron with both left side VIN's intact for authenticity. It had a new front clip welded on and I believe they somhow kept the "strip". As long as the history is revealed when the car is sold I don't see a problem. It's the next sale that bothers me.
I remember the restorers of Glacier Girl looking for a front tire.
Great restoration story http://www.p38assn.org/glacier-girl.htm
Jim
It would be difficult to tell a reproduction under dash harness from a NOS Ford harness because it is under the dash. With a reproduction paper tag attached (located at the connector near the center of the car) it might even fool Ford QA. I had reproduction and Ford NOS under hood harnesses for both the gauge and the headlight circuits side by each and there was little difference (I think the color stripe was a slightly different shade on a wire or two).
You can remove the under dash harness and lay it out on a 4X8 sheet of plywood, drive in marker nails for bends, connectors and breakouts, and then rewrap it. That's the current plan on a 66 Shelby I'm working on. The owner has NOS under hood and a tail light harnesses.
And I've had a fire extinguisher in all my cars since 1963. Only used one once on someone elses car fire (I think 1970 or 71). I'm considering a Haylon type for my Van.
Jim
A new stock reproduction Mustang harness is in most cases better than the original only because it's new. They have the same wire colors, wire gauge, lengths and connections as the originals - sort of like plug and play. The aftermarket "solves everything" modified harnesses fit that same general description, they're new, the gauge is the same, the colors may or may not be the same and the lengths are cut to fit (some additional assembly required). The problem with the modified stuff is the installer, the additional electrical attachments that are added and the stuff left off. That's not my humble opinion, it's the real world. If you don't know what you are doing, you will gain "experience". The under dash harness is the most complex on a 64 thru 66 (make that all thru 73) and is also the most expensive which is why it is usually not replaced. I'm not saying that it should be replaced, but there is a good reason as the subject of this thread.
Jim
To replace the long bolts, the manifolds needs to be removed with the loose long bolts in place, and the bolts need to be slid in their spots before the manifold goes back in. Remember, the manifolds were installed on the engine prior to the engine going in the car.
Jim
I got "burned" too.
Jim
I think there was a mistake in past NPD catalogs where they listed a different front sway bar kit for 1965. According to the Ford Car Parts book, 1965 thru 1967 are the same. For reference, the bolt, C0DD-5495-A (AMK 2011 P11) is 5.82 inches long.
Jim
Quote from acman63They are cast iron. These are the ones that Ford Motorsport used to sale
Is the box p/n "M-8512-A302" and the casting p/n "D0ZE-8512-A"? If so, the the shaft diameter must be 5/8 inch.
Jim
i have a turnbuckle with fittings on each end that fit inside the pulleys. i adjust the belt tension until there is 3/8 to 1/2 inch deflection in the longest section of the belt.
I got one of those too. That's why I use a prybar. If I take more than a minute pr two to do this, I've wasted time.
Jim
