Posts by jwc66k

Welcome to the club. You have been screwed by the Ford Motor Company. Fred will be upset, but that's the way it is with the Ford part number system. Your replacement part number for a 67 HP MT is C7ZZ-7515-D and the 'book' has no cross reference to the part you have in your hand or any other marked part for 67 and earlier. Somewhere, somehow, someone has a cross reference to what you've got. The only thing I can get out of the 'book' is that a 6 cy is 9 1/4 inches long, and a HP is 12 inches long - referenced from where is an educated guess (or WAG). Other than that - zero.

Jim

Try this site - http://www.ponysite.de/fmcog/to_alt/bbtd.htm

It's for buck tags, but the PIO is listed.

Jim

Volume 1 of the Mustang Production Guide (page 38) states 'late February, 1965' for the first documented GT, and apparently the first with the interior decore group (Pony interior), with a Dearborn VIN of 5F07K645146 and a date of 28B. The data and VIN are a bit out of sequence and that date is also a Sunday. Possibly an assembly line test. San Jose has another K convertible, 5R08K189212, scheduled for February 20, 1965. Metuchen's first documented in in March.

Jim

I glass bead blast all my parts and the ones that do not get painted (hinges or hardware) and depending on the color required, either phosphate and oil them, or dip them in a blackening agent and then phosphate and oil. Phosphating requires the part to be 'cooked' at 180 F plus, in a mild phosphoric acid bath for up to 10 minutes. I find that air drying and then oiling them gives a good finish. You need stainless steel tanks and tools to do all this.

Jim

Quote from C6ZZKGT

His wife put them on Craigs list without his knowledge.

That's grounds.

Jim

Yup, you're correct. It's the type of electronic tach that requires a wire to the negative of the distributor to function that I'm thinking of, the type that is sitting in a box in my garage cause it don't work on my Pertronix.

Jim

The Ford/Mustang Rally Pac used the distributor's points grounding to generate a signal indicating RPM. Electronic distributors, Pertronix included, do not have points so original Rally Pacs will not work. There are supposed to be aftermarket Rally Pacs that will work on electronic type setups so that's your choice.

Jim

Here is the e-bay reply I got: (Note: I said 'shame' on the seller)

"Your shame is on Ford. I've been doing this over twenty years and can tell you several things I've seen done on Fords from the factory. You best learn how Ford does things. I am also a MCA judge have spent several hours in Dearborn and with Mike Pierson the President of MCA. No shame here we stand by what we sell."

Comments Charles?

Jim

This 'De Ja Vu'(sp) all over again. I remember this same question posed early last year on another forum. Nuff said.

Jim

Fred,

This listing is an indication of misuse of the English language. Madison Avenue ad executives would be proud, as would P. T. Barnum. Note some critical omitted words as part of their sale pitch. It's also full of a lot of implications as to the car, and nowhere in the details is the key wording that the carb is the correct one, just that it was on the car. The most outstanding key word is "Clean". Now where did we hear "Clean" used as a testomonial.

Jim

Quote from kar-nut

This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective.

[Blocked Image: http://www.international-auto.com/images/originals/ignition_coil2.gif]

Getting old is a bitch and I forgot something. There are a few more checks to verify a good from bad coil and they are simple - resistance of ALL terminals to the metal case. Something in the back of my ancient brain says to do them all, but ANY reading is bad. This should be done with a device known as a 'megger', an ohmmeter that is used to read resistance at high voltages - as in a breakdown of insulation.

Jim

Fred,

The internal reverse hook-up was what a friend was told by a Ford dealer (the sponsor of our club) when the car (67 289 convertible) was diagnosed on a scope. A new Ford coil fixed the problem and they went back on the road to Santa Cruz. I think the bad coil came from NPD and they eventually replaced it saying they got a bad batch from their supplier. That's about all I remember. This happened when the repros first came out. As to reversing the leads, the theory says yes, my guts say no.

Jim

When the repro coils first came out, the internal wiring of the coil's terminals was backwards. The coil worked but overheated and eventually burned out.

Jim

Fred,

I woarked at Ford Aerospace and Communications Corp., Western Developement Labs, in Military Logistics and Reliability for 18 years. I was also a memeber of the Society of Logistics Engineers. I have heard every excuse in the book from design engineers, draftsmen and buyers as to their use of part numbers, both good and bad. As a result, we coined a phrase 'creative part number engineering' and 'it's not what's on the box, but what's in the box that counts'. All kidding aside, if someone is suspicious about a supposed Hi-Po part found on their car, say a flexplate, and you refer to an inventory, box identification or service part number, you add more confusion than clarity. It's how the part is marked that counts. And the use of 'everybody knows' is another backwards step. Otherwise the question would never have been asked.

Jim

Part number and part marking are two sides of the same coin. The flexplate for a 66 and 67 is marked C4OE-6380-C. The number on the box for a new one, if such a thing exists, is C4OZ-6375-C. I wish you would concentrate on the part's marking vs the box.

Jim

YES

Nice picture of the 65 convertible undercarriage. I added it to my show and tell section.

As to the starter cable brackets, I just got back from doing the eyeball research on my Oct 65 San Jose build 1966 HP Fastback. It uses the 65 type brackets. The front bracket is installed between the bolt head and the bracket and is angled slightly forward. I can't see the rear as the right side of the car is against the garage wall but I would assume it's angled to the rear.

Jim

Let me throw another turnip in the pot. Don't think 'K' engine only. Ford would be somewhat consistent on the engine assembly line so we would have a painted small block engine, a 'C', 'A' or 'K' (or 'F' or 'D' in 64) code at the end with; no flywheel/flexplate; no crank pulley but with a dampner (what was painted engine color); no carburetor but with an intake manifold and spacer; no fuel pump; no indication as to road draft tube or PCV valve; no fan or spacer; no indication as to air conditioning; no indicationing as to power steering; no indication as to power brakes; and for 1966 - smog; and finally, no indication as to what product it was to be used - Full size, Fairlane, Mustang, etc. Where were any or some of these engine related items installed? At Cleveland - or New Jersey, Dearborn or San Jose? And a hot test? We've seen some Mustangs with assembly line altered VIN's - from a 'D' code to a 'F' code as an example, specifically 5F08D127829 to 5F08F205641. Why? Did the engine fail when it was tested at the end of the assembly line and Ford was in the business of selling cars, not maintaining VIN integerity?

Jim

I remember seeing a grinder involved in the removal. I've sprayed the area with liquid wrench, tried the chisel bit and even came in thru the top with a drift and a 2 lb sledge. Forty years of heat, rust and metal bonding are difficult to overcome. The reference I'm looking for had something about a 428 engine as well.

Jim

Sometime in the last month there was an article in a magazine, a tip in a catalog or something on the net about how to remove the choke preheater fitting from the bottom of the right hand exhaust manifold so the screen filter can be replaced. I can't remember where I saw it and I'm at a point where I'm going to replace the screen. I would prefer to see how someone else did this than invent my own way. Does anyone remember where the directions were?

Jim