Posts by jwc66k

    I replaced the two standard outside mirrors on my 66 Hardtop with the adjustable LH and matching RH without a template. I used the old eye-ball and opened the vent to make sure they cleared. They were located about three inches further back than the standard ones if I remember. I used a plastic cup washer and screw to fill in the old holes, one on each side, the rear hole was covered by the new mirrors. To relocate the LH mirror further to the rear, you will need to make the control cable hole either an 'oval' shape or make a new one. Take the LH one off and see what you need to do.

    Jim

    Quote from round2K

    Hope you have better luck boycotting ebay than I did. I tried that once and they're still in business:)

    I am not organizing a boycott, I'm stating my own personal opinion that the 'new' e-bay is difficult to use. If I can't find what I'm looking to buy, neither can buyers find what I'm trying to sell.

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

    Jim

    I notice that today, e-bay motors car parts has a 'new' format that apparently eliminates the ability to select parts by a range of years. I sent them another message about this deficency to e-bay (I pointed this out several times that I tried their new format). Until this is fixed, I will not buy or sell on e-bay. "Hello, Craig's list?"

    Jim

    First, I would look for a new 'restorer'. Second, there is a noticable failure of rebuilt proportioning valves, maybe one percent, probably less. They don't have catastropic failures, they just leak a little bit. I brake shop where I had mine done said this to me and said check it once in a while. If you don't see a leak, don't worry about it.

    Jim

    The ammeter should show your battery is being charged (right after starting for example) by the needle 'bouncing' to the right. If it moves to the left, try reversing the heavy gauge black/yellow wire that goes thru the pickup loop at the rear of the meter. That would be the theory.

    Jim

    I picked up another parking brake handle assembly from a 1966 wrecked Mustang (I needed the pulley) and there are some differences from the ones I have. In this one, the shaft is solid, as opposed to the rolled and formed other ones, and the handle has the attaching pin coming in from the lower left at a 45 deg angle. The rachet teeth are also closer together (fine as opposed to coarse), but it seems to be functionally the same. I did a forum search but it appears that the shaft was not ever brought up. What do I have?

    Jim

    Bo,

    Sure is. It is offered as NOS. I don't know the date of manufacture but the box looks less than brand new and it does have a 1963 Ford part number, C3AZ-9355-A, which is listed in the Ford Car Parts book. My point is that not all parts or assemblies advertised as NOS are the same as factory original. This canister could have been made in 1965 to Ford service specifications. That's all.

    Jim

    Quote from 6hypo5conv

    I wish I had my car here to measure, but is there any way someone can measure the overall length of the car for me?

    Thanks!

    Aproximately, 182 inches long (15 ft, 2 in), 52 inches high (4 ft, 4 in), 69 inches wide (5 ft, 9 in).

    Jim

    Joe, I can't answer for a manufacturer, but NPD as a supplier has been a good source, call them. You are right about Coker for the rubber but, I have the original US Rubber unused spare on a Styled Steel Rim in my Fastback and it is different than what Coker sells. It is marked 'Super Safety 800 - XP', the Coker repros are marked 'Safety 800'. The other difference is the -XP has no 'ribs' at the pavement edge, the repros do.

    And, in a few minutes I will go out into my backyard and pick some avocados to make fresh guacamole (well, to replace the ripened ones I picked last week). Have an nice day.

    Jim

    Red line tires were standard with all 'K' cars. Other standard size tires were optional at no charge. Styled Steel Wheels were an option. All cars came with standard wheel covers but there were a few optional ones. Today, original or Nos wheels are rare and original tires from that era are even rarer. When I ordered my 1966 Fastback, I ordered standard wheels and tires as and then replaced them with 'Mags' ASAP and eventually replaced the tires with D70-14 or E70-14, I don't remember. Current wheel sources would be Fred or e-bay.

    Jim

    Quote from round2K

    Jeff - did Richard use stamps or stencils?

    Rich used a flat stamp mounted on block and rolled the coil over it. The biggest problem he had was smears. I don't remember the ink type but back in my electronic days, we used an epoxy based ink for stamps. It was a bitch to clean up. If you were going to try this, I would recommend stamping the date code with a separate 'roll' type stamp.

    Jim

    You got my curosity up so I looked. My 5/11/65 San Jose build 'A' code GT has the condenser (Ford's name) at the alternator marked "913" at the top (manufacturer's part number), "Fomoco" above center and "C5TA-18827-A" at the bottom.

    The capacitor (Ford's name) at the voltage regulator is marked "C3SA-18832-A" at the top, "648" in the center with no other marking.

    In my junk box, there were a couple of capacitors marked "C6OA-18832-A" on the top, "648" in the center and "Fomoco" on the bottom and one marked "C6OA-18832-A" at the top, "Autolite" (preceded by their logo) in the center and "648" at the bottom. All the Fomocos were in an oval and all the 648 were also in an oval.

    Jim

    It's basically a capacitor so you need to see if it is shorted or not, and then check the charge retaining capability. That is done with an old style ohm meter, the kind with a needle. A digital ohm meter will not work. The test is simple - in the ohm reading mode (2k ohm to 10 K ohm range) after zeroing the meter, hold the black probe lead to the case and the red probe lead to the bullet connnector lead. The needle wil rise rapidly and then drop to zero. Immediately reverse the black and red probe leads and if the supressor is good, the meter will rise higher that the first reading and then drop to zero. If the needle stays high at any time, the supressor is shorted - if the needle does not move, it's open.

    Jim

    Hi Doc,

    Welcome - again. Aren't computers wonderful? I'm still a member of the VMOA although my attendance is spotty. Saw Kathy and Louise at the last meeting but I know Jerry is still sick. Have a good one.

    Jim

    In most parts of this country, arsonist are shot on sight. In Australia they had their right to self-defense taken away. If we aren't careful, we're next, and anarchy will rule. I got friends in Australia and have heard from most of them as they're being OK.

    Jim