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May I ask why some of these are one piece and some are two piece with a seperate HiPo back section?
Welcom from another new un, good luck with the car
For what its worth, on the dyeing matter If your carpet is not worn but faded, dyeing with a fabric dye can be a way out especialy for black that has gone brown as there are no shading issues. I dyed the faded carpets on my Lotus for the exact reason that you guys are having problems with - no suitable replacement. I did it about 15 years ago, they came up like new and are still good.
Dave please give me first refusal on gearbox. I will phone for a shippimg quote and call you later today. I will PM you with my email thanks Mark.
Fred are they supposed to be quite shiney as the paint I was considering is semi
Charles, Just got it gas = fuel I was thrown into thinking that it was the rattle can propellant gas that was geing talked about. I had not considered the durability of the paint from the fuel point of view. I think I had better spray a sample and test before I do a cannister. Thanks for the paint info.
What exactly is white interior paint, where is it used, is there a number for it?. What does earlyK mean by getting gas on the cannister
and the paint no longer being on it?. In the UK I can buy radiator paint in a rattle can that is for household radiators it is an off white and takes a moderate amount( well up to 100c )of heat. May be theres an equivalent in US ?.
Matched your 100, anyone else playing ?
Well........... how about checking out the homepage of the Exchange?
Why thank you for pointing that out, when my 'machine' brings up the home page that little icon is not visible I have now scrolled down to reveal it,I really should stick to oily things 
Marv I'm new here and have immensely enjoyed reading the posts and trying to learn a bit about the car I've wanted for many years. My car is now on the quay in Chatham Kent UK awaiting customs clearance. I would be happy to make a contribution but would need to know how? where to? what amount? etc. Thanks to all the backroom boys great job
Hi I replied to your other post. I cant help you on size but can offer you a thought, be careful on the overall diameter of the tyre you choose as if you deveate from the original your speedo will not read true, there are charts on the web giving tyre diameter with different widths and aspect ratios.
No Not yet, but I am doing a good impression of a magpie at the moment - picking up anything shiney 
. It cant be far away can it ? how big is this pond anyway ?
Quote from C6ZZKGTCongratulations on your new Kar, Marshall. It is unclear to me as to what part of the mount is actually hitting your exhaust manifold. After looking at one of my Kars that has 65 style HIPO mounts it seems most likely that your manifold is hitting on the cast iron part. The first things to know about the cast portions of your mounts is that they are standard and not Hipo mounts. I know that it is tough to see the numbers sometimes however your numbers are actually C3DA 6A030 B and C3DA 6C041 B. Note the C3DA rather than the C3OA prefix to the numbers. If you recheck the numbers on your cast brackets, you will be able to see this. The correct HIPO cast brackets have C4ZA numbers. Regardless of having the wrong mount assemblies, the manifold will still not hit on the cast bracket unless the rubber part on the mount has sagged from time. If you had the correct HIPO upper parts of the mounts, your engine would be stting one inch too high as the C4ZA brackets have a lower saddle to accomodate the complex HIPO upper mount assemblies and your problem would be in the opposite direction. This means that you definitely have standard mounts. The rest of the standard mounts that you have are pretty straight forward as there are only two other pieces per side. You will have a stamped steel angle bracket that has a stud sticking down through the cast bracket with a washer and nut on it. The upper part that attaches directly to the block, has a large rubber block molded to it and another stud that attaches this part to the stamped steel bracket with a washer and nut. The problem is with the rubber block as they tend to sag over time. They start off very square in the beginning and become more of a parallelogram over time. This effectively lowers the engine block closer to the cast frame mount. Usually the first sign of the motor getting lower is the fan hitting the shroud. There are two ways to correct this problem if you are going to continue using standard mounts. One is to replace the rubber mount assemblies with Ford only replacements. The reason that I state Ford only is that, in my experience, the aftermarket mounts have a softer rubber and sag some at the moment you put the engines weight on them. I had occasion at one time to be out of one side of genuine Ford mounts so I used a GYPO, non Ford as known in the Ford parts business, mount on the other side. I ended up with the engine noticeably leaning to one side as I set the engine back down on the mounts. The other correction if you do not wish to buy mounts is to use flat washers between the mounts and the block where the bolts go through and the bolts will hold them in place. This will help to compensate for the mount sag. Of course the correct HIPO mount assemblies would also be good to install at this time however they are tough to come by these days and command some pretty good prices. The rubber blocks on the HIPO monnts can also sag creating a similar problem but it takes a lot longer to show up as they are much beefier.
-Fred-
Fred are you saying if a kar is fitted with standard cast lower mounts and HiPo upper mounts that the engine will be too high? What will be the consequence of this? will the aircleaner contact the hood or will there be other problems?
when my lad was two he came in really handy for cleaning around the spokes on my wire wheels, those little fingers can get in everywhere
you will need a much better qualified person than me to answer that one
There is another number in brackets listed for that bolt it is
[BB-838-K]
The plates with the frame stud are made of two parts welded together
The upper part number is C3OZ-6046-A same for L and R
The lower left hand is C5ZZ-6029-A
The lower right hand is C5ZZ-6028-A
WELOME, I am also waiting for my '65 fastback to be delivered, will be glad to compare notes when you get it.
Good Luck Mark
Ralph
That is very informative, Thanks for putting that together, it is such a shame Ford binned everything prior to 1967, on the other hand a little bit of mystique never hurt anything, we can say '65 K FB's are as rare as rocking horse s**t, and someone else can say 'pah', there's loads of 'em. Ya cant do that with your daily driver!
Does anyone have a rough idea of how many 1965 fastbacks were produced ?
Sorry chaps I should have asked... Does anyone know roughly how many K Code fastbacks were produced in 1965 ?. I also apologise for not chatting as UK / US times make this difficult. All the best everyone
Mark
