Posts by TJinSA

    These folks need to understand they can register their information anonymously without fear someone will come seeking to buy or steal their car. On the contrary, putting the information in SAACs hands protects their cars identity and value against possible duplication or theft. Old registry information has been used to create "Air Cars"...

    RECOMMENDED TEMPLATE: Sold for <b>final bid of $305</b> by cwgal14452. The description was simple <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>1966 289 Mustang, Shelby, K-Code HiPo Motor Mounts, Good Condition.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote> The mounts were just missing the lower frame mounts, in excellent condition, even had overspray on them from painting the engine.

    link

    [Blocked Image: http://i17.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/42/be/813d_1.JPG]

    There are those that advocate going to the '66 and later motor mounts-- cheaper and significantly stronger. I've had a Gold Card Judge tell me just that with my early '66. In fact, I've been receiving that advice for years. Economicly it makes sense; but this hobby/addiction doesn't make sense.

    Jim, I know you're just saying this because I just paid serious money for some old used motor mounts, aren't you?!?!!... I hadn't heard of reopos of the cast-iron frame mounts. The intermediate wedges should be a piece of cake... I was going to make them for myself, based on what I found with the block mounting plate. But for the later I got too cheap at the last moment on a pair someone had up for bids.<img src=images/icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle>

    There were two of very similar design for '65 and '66. IIRC, the spelling of Rally changed from one to the next. Valley Ford Parts in CA used to sell reproductions, but they were thin, light-weight screen printed versions-- easily distinquished from the originals. Yours, as an original, is a heavy chrome plated steel disk that has the design etched into the surface. I also have one of the '65 plaques I found under the carpeting in my first '65 fastback. I know of a gentleman in San Antonio that has original plaques for 65-8.

    GTs did not have the side chrome simulated scoops.


    In '66 back-up lights were mandatory, but I guess it could be conceiveable the first few cars may have not received them, but I have never heard of any discussion or documentation indicating so.


    I can't answer the deck lid question.

    The rollbar I have in my '66 is an original '68 Shelby 'vert bar, but the reproduction convertible bars are made to the same dimensions. The '68 Shelby rollbar will identically fit any 65(64 1/2)-68 chassis. The base of the bar rests in the oval cut-out of the triangular brace at the base of the door post (it's hidden buy the quarter panel assy). The oval hole was opened up by bending the interior edge up, the bar inserted, and the bar welded as much as possible to the triangular brace. The original bars were also welded to the sheet tin about 18 inches up from there. Since I wanted my bar for appearance sake, I left the bottom unwelded, and welded a tab further up which I bolted through the tin of the body panel. It's solidly in place, but not for safety's rqmts. Besides the rollbar you'll need the interior quarter panels, an extension to the window crank shaft, and a sheet-metal support brace that supports and centers the end of the shaft extension, as well as keeps the fiberglass (reproduction) / plastic (original) qurter panel properly spaced and seated.

    RESERVE NOT MET at <b>$152.50</b> by eBay seller 65specialk. eBay auction ended Jan-12-07. Description: <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>... Removed from a complete correct 65 Shelby motor ... The original owner ... removed the engine ... in the spring of 1966 ... Every part on the engine was original from the factory. The pump was removed and stored in a safe area.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    [url=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220069797608&rd=1,1]1965 Shelby Hipo 289 Fuel Pump [/url]

    [Blocked Image: http://i9.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/83/4f/03fa_1.JPG]


    In an earlier auction:


    A 3939S .<b>(Correction: Sorry, BoS indicates this was a 3911 pump)</b> sold for <b>$52.39</b> by eBay seller bapony. Sorry, no description was saved. eBay Item number: 4610212281 ended Friday, Feb 10, 2006. This was a HIGHLY UNUSUAL low price


    Edited by - tjinsa on 01/13/2007 17:17:24

    I tried to find one, but can't find one. The fuel log for the AFBs is strange in that it had a single leg (stand) compared to other fuel logs Ford used on multiple carb set-ups. Otherwise, It had the same construction characteristics. The air cleaners were Stellings (North Hollywood, CA) similar to the air cleaners folks are familiar with on the dual carb 427 Cobras with a circular perforated, chromed metal band body. In fact there were two like-described bands sandwiching a foam center. Reproduction throttle linkages are (were) readily available and correct in their appearance.

    It really depends on the completeness of the set up. The air cleaners seem to be the major force in the final price; to a lesser degree the proper fuel log and throttle linkage. The AFB set-up isn't as sought after as the holleys, but $750 was the lowest I've seen them sell for in recent years, They generally go higher-- $1200-1400 plus a bit more. With all the correct pieces, double that.

    Unlike the large letter intakes, the small letter intakes were not reproduced (to the best of my knowledge, and have been around a while). You can trade the intake for a large lettered intake and a negotiable sum or parts on the side P.M. for more details, I feel like I'm making enemies today.